XR 600 Stalling


5 replies to this topic
  • Dan F

Posted August 08, 2006 - 09:22 AM

#1

'98 stalls after an hour or so of trail riding Won't start unless I pull the spark plug and clean it and clear the engine. Plug is black, full of carbon. Not sure if this is a fuel problem (too rich) or ignition. Usually happens when running low rpms, seems like it's loading up???

  • SniperTeamBravo

Posted August 08, 2006 - 09:34 AM

#2

Ok here you go, it IS jetting. Drop a size on the pilot jet, do the same for the main, raise the clip on the needle two positions, and try it again, I will bet youll have no more fouling problems, and th ebike will have more power and start easier when hot. Also, this is a starting point, a baseline so you may have to tweak a little also. Also turn the pilot air acrew all the way in then back it out 1 3/4 to 2 turns too.

  • Dan F

Posted August 08, 2006 - 01:26 PM

#3

Thanks! How do I determine the size of the jets in there now? Are they marked?

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  • cleonard

Posted August 08, 2006 - 01:51 PM

#4

The jets have little numbers stamped into them. Some are on the face and others are on the side.

Unless the bike has been moved to high altitude or something, I kind of doubt the jetting. Is the bike new to you? If the bike was fine before and just started doing this, then it is most likely not the jets. I have had jets come loose and kill the engine. I would look into the float and the float valve. They can fail in such a way that they let way too much gas into the carb. The gas level gets too high, the bike runs rich, and if it's bad enough kills the engine. If that happens gas usually runs out of the carb overflow.

If everything looks OK with the carb, the problem may be the stator. Mine failed in much the same way. OK when cold, but bad when hot. It never failed completely. It just put out less juice so the spark got real feeble. I ended up rewinding mine. Fixed the problem.

When you are looking at the carb, take a real close look at the choke plate. They are known to break off and get sucked through the engine, with expensive results. There are aftermarket plates available. I just removed my choke completely.

  • Dan F

Posted August 08, 2006 - 06:18 PM

#5

The jets have little numbers stamped into them. Some are on the face and others are on the side.

Unless the bike has been moved to high altitude or something, I kind of doubt the jetting. Is the bike new to you? If the bike was fine before and just started doing this, then it is most likely not the jets. I have had jets come loose and kill the engine. I would look into the float and the float valve. They can fail in such a way that they let way too much gas into the carb. The gas level gets too high, the bike runs rich, and if it's bad enough kills the engine. If that happens gas usually runs out of the carb overflow.

If everything looks OK with the carb, the problem may be the stator. Mine failed in much the same way. OK when cold, but bad when hot. It never failed completely. It just put out less juice so the spark got real feeble. I ended up rewinding mine. Fixed the problem.

When you are looking at the carb, take a real close look at the choke plate. They are known to break off and get sucked through the engine, with expensive results. There are aftermarket plates available. I just removed my choke completely.


Cleonard, thanks to you and others I already fixed the choke plate problem.
Any way to test if the stator is bad or going bad? Also, any tips on rewinding one?

  • cleonard

Posted August 09, 2006 - 01:38 PM

#6

Cleonard, thanks to you and others I already fixed the choke plate problem.
Any way to test if the stator is bad or going bad? Also, any tips on rewinding one?


Mine never went completely out. When hot, the bike would sometimes run poorly at low revs and became difficult to start. I never really did much about it until one time when I crashed pretty hard. After the crash I could not start the bike. I think that due to the crash I wasn't kicking it quite as hard. No matter what I did I could not start it. I ended up taking the plug out and kicked it while looking for spark. The spark was very wimpy. After that I tried to push start it and was successful. Back at home, I checked the resistance of the coil and it was OK when cold. It also made a much better spark. Then I ran it some and the resistance was still within the specified range. However, the spark was wimpy. I decided to rewind it. Afterwards, the spark was big and bright compared to before.

Do a search on my posts using "stator." I have described the procedure a few times before. I also mentioned a site that described it pretty well and had pictures.

Since I don't 100% trust my rewinding job, I carry a small 12 volt AC "wall wart" transformer for an emergency. It boosts the lighting voltage to operate the ignition, so I can get back to the truck if my rewind fails.





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