Engine Oil


29 replies to this topic
  • YZ426F Rider

Posted August 07, 2006 - 09:53 AM

#21

Has anybody used any of the Duomond Tech oils? One of the local Yamaha parts/service places say it is the greatest stuff since sliced bread (but this is the same place that didn't know that the 426's had oil strainers). I think they like it so much because it sells for $36/gallon. I tried some on my last oil change and my tranny did not seem as smooth as it usually is, and I had a number of missed shifts which is a rare occurence for me. I think I've made my decision...going back to Rotella syth., just wondering if anybody else has tried this stuff.

  • ncmountainman

Posted August 07, 2006 - 02:43 PM

#22

here's one for ya,seeing as how that castrol beaner oil is so great,how would it mix with a dino oil like rotella 15/40? like say a qt to a gallon,i'm guessing the castrol R is expensive? i know that mixing oils can sometimes be a bad thing,just an idea :thumbsup: yes gray i guess that would explain the gold color,my bad :ride:

  • grayracer513

Posted August 07, 2006 - 03:16 PM

#23

Unfortunately, this particular idea is a very bad one. Castor based oils do not mix with petroleum products, whether synthetic or natural, and if you try it, you'll end up with globs of jelly bobbing around in your oil supply and clogging stuff up. Changing from one to the other requires a flushing operation.

Castrol R is an exceptionally good lubricant, but it's pricey and hard to find.

  • ncmountainman

Posted August 07, 2006 - 03:23 PM

#24

yep,just got off the castrol website. they do however make a straght 40 wt(dino/bean combo) that they blend themselves called B353,says its great for high revving dry sump engines and thats about all i could find out. its 35 british pounds a gallon which is around $70 no? way too rich for my blood :thumbsup:

  • barch88

Posted August 07, 2006 - 03:39 PM

#25

Changing from one to the other requires a flushing operation.

When you say that, do you mean totally different brand oils, or weight too? Reason I ask is, I switched from Yamalube 10W30 to Yamalube 10W50...no problems.

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  • rdefonce

Posted August 07, 2006 - 03:49 PM

#26

I run Mobil 1 MX4T in my YZ (and Gixxer) It's 10w40, motorcycle-specific oil.

  • Pukeballs

Posted August 07, 2006 - 04:47 PM

#27

The mechanic at the local shop recommended the Spectro 4 Platinum. I bought the 15-50w. This ok? Oh ya, they charge 10 bucks a litre for this stuff too. Anyone know where to get it cheaper? I dont mind buying in bulk if I can save a few pesos.

  • ncmountainman

Posted August 08, 2006 - 05:55 AM

#28

When you say that, do you mean totally different brand oils, or weight too? Reason I ask is, I switched from Yamalube 10W30 to Yamalube 10W50...no problems.

he meant the castor based oil CASTROL R,sorry to confuse anyone :thumbsup:

  • grayracer513

Posted August 08, 2006 - 10:00 AM

#29

yep,just got off the castrol website. they do however make a straght 40 wt(dino/bean combo) that they blend themselves called B353,says its great for high revving dry sump engines and thats about all i could find out. its 35 british pounds a gallon which is around $70 no? way too rich for my blood :ride:

$66.74 today. But hey, that's only $16.69/qt. :thumbsup: When we were using R in all our race bikes in the late '60's/early '70's, ordinary oils was $.35/qt, good stuff was $.85, and premium specialty oils were like $1.25/qt. Castrol R was $2.50/qt.

I saw, a few years ago, that a Euro oil company, Motul, possibly, had a castor engine oil with a blending agent added so that it didn't require flushing to mix in where petro oils had been, but it was too new for me to know much about it, and I had a CR500 at the time, so I blew it off and forgot it 'til now.

  • santoy

Posted August 08, 2006 - 06:01 PM

#30

01 426. Over 80 motos. HUNDREDS of practice laps in all weather. Untold miles through the woods. Original top end/bottom end/valvetrain. Rotella T since new. Oil change every other ride. New Yamaha filter every 5 rides or sooner. The end.

Mike





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