KLR 650 Fork oil


17 replies to this topic
  • jjewell

Posted 04 August 2006 - 11:09 AM

#1

What's the word on fork oil? Stay with the recommended 10w or go up to a 15w? Any schools of thought?

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  • crooks420

Posted 04 August 2006 - 09:11 PM

#2

Do you have a specific reason to go with a different wt. oil? heavy off-road? Larger than average in the waist? I would probably go with what is spec'd in the manual.... just make sure to get the same amount of oil in each fork. Heavier fork oil is going to give a firmer feel to the forks..... lighter wt is gonna feel lighter and more prone to bottoming if you ride some serious off-road.

Jesse

  • MBD Afflicted

Posted 05 August 2006 - 03:01 AM

#3

Fork oil will change the amount of damping of the forks, NOT the amount of weight the forks will support.

I use 10w fork oil set at 170 mm in my KLR650 forks.  I have Progressive Suspension fork springs in the bike and the front end is about as good as it can get.  I'm happy as it gives me better braking, good feedback and handles both on and off road quite well.

  • schmidtle

Posted 14 July 2009 - 05:15 PM

#4

MBD Afflicted said:

Fork oil will change the amount of damping of the forks, NOT the amount of weight the forks will support.

I use 10w fork oil set at 170 mm in my KLR650 forks.  I have Progressive Suspension fork springs in the bike and the front end is about as good as it can get.  I'm happy as it gives me better braking, good feedback and handles both on and off road quite well.


What year KLR do you have. Will the 170 mm work in a 2008?

  • Blackheart

Posted 14 July 2009 - 06:01 PM

#5

jjewell said:

What's the word on fork oil? Stay with the recommended 10w or go up to a 15w? Any schools of thought?

I changed the entire setup.  Stiffer Cogent Dynamic springs combined with Intiminators with 5w fork oil.  Will NOT go back to stock.  The improvements are wonderful no matter if it's rock gardens at 10 mph, sudden wash-outs at 40 mph, or carving an undulating curve at 75.

I'm not sure changing the weight is going to do much good.  You could try changing the volume in the fork tube...or, adding some air pressure to the forks (the "book" says not to, but, the fork tubes themselves have instructions on how much air can be added).

  • Blackheart

Posted 15 July 2009 - 05:09 AM

#6

schmidtle said:

What year KLR do you have. Will the 170 mm work in a 2008?

I'm fairly certain the fork oil level changed in the 08 model.  Have to check your owner's manual...

  • HardRiderKLR

Posted 08 August 2009 - 02:01 AM

#7

Hi everyone!
I have klr 650 c (1995). Is my fork identical to a klr650A?
And should I use any 10w20 (like semisintetic) oil or there is some special oil for forks? How much mililitars should i put in? tnx

  • XR_RON

Posted 07 March 2012 - 05:07 PM

#8

I just drained the fork oil from my 03s KLR 650s forks,Im the 2nd owner,and the PO told me he never did it,Well,it looked like waste from the bilge of an old river barge,a real old river barge,almost toxic waste,so I spent more money flushing them with clean fork oil,and I could tell a difference right away,they dont dive as bad when you get on the front brakes hard,I also swapped out springs,to progressive,but change your fork oil,you know it needs it.

  • highmarker

Posted 07 March 2012 - 05:24 PM

#9

'92 I ran progressive with atf for many years,  oil 6" from the top.  One of my springs broke (yes spacer length was correct).   I now run stock springs with 5 psi, 5w oil and emulators.

5w because it''l pass through the stock dampening rod holes pretty much with little effect letting the emulator do the work.  If I enlarged the holes I could use heavier oil.

  • Beezerboy

Posted 08 March 2012 - 11:43 AM

#10

the 08 oil level is 135mm from the top as I recall. remove springs, collapse fork, add oil.

older bikes had oil at either 170 or 190 depending (slight change in about 96). What works the best on Gen one bikes is oil at 165-175. I stick with 10 wt (ATF). 5-15 psi air to trim.

I've done dozens of forks at tech days, NONE had even the minimum unless the owner did the work. I've done many new bikes that were 50-75cc low per leg, one was 200cc low just to get to 190. Proper oil makes a huge difference. Add a fork brace & it's pretty good.

If you want to spend more money, get the Ricor valves... they are fantastic. I mix ATF and Marvel Mystery Oil 50/50 to get 5wt they require. Stock springs are fine.

  • IDRIDR

Posted 08 March 2012 - 08:43 PM

#11

Good stuff gents.

I have an '06 bought a few months ago and I don't know if anythings been done. PO didn't know jack, but he only had it a few hunnert miles and it must have scared him.  Runs good.

Fork oil leaked out of the drain screw a bit ago.  Looked like nice clean ATF.  Tightened it, stopped leak.  Now I need to drain/fill.  Better springs and valves are in the plan if I keep her.  I'm 200# dry.  What say you on fill level and any oil recommendations for the '06?

Many thanks.

  • highmarker

Posted 08 March 2012 - 09:00 PM

#12

beezeer,      ricor sent me 5w amsoil with my valves.   I didn't really think they did much until I hit washboard dirt road and nothing happened.....the forks ate it up.

I'm simple with the klr, I just max the rear spring out then tune the front air to balance the suspension f to r.

  • Beezerboy

Posted 09 March 2012 - 01:11 PM

#13

ya, I got no oil with my Ricor valves, so did the honerable KLR thing which is to find a cheap substitute.


On the 06..... collapse forks, remove springs, fill to 165-170mm from the top. Top with 10psi air. Consider a fork brace, but don't waste money on different springs, go straight to the Ricors.

obviously, the forks need a good cleaning inside too

Edited by Beezerboy, 09 March 2012 - 01:12 PM.


  • IDRIDR

Posted 10 March 2012 - 09:22 AM

#14

Thank you Beezer, that's what I wanted to know.

I'm not sure about not doing springs.  I'm 200 lbs and plan to load this bike up with some armor, tools, gear for multi-day adventures into the Idaho deserts and mountains, and possibly a passeger from time to time.  The KLX250 was set up stock for a 150 lb rider.  I put proper springs in first and the difference was huge.  Then installed gold valves and it was nothing short of amazing compared to the stock setup.  I've heard great reports for both the Ricor and Race Tech valve setups and am not yet convinced that one is better than the other.  Lots of opinions out there.  Like I've heard from a number of riders to avoid the fork brace if I'll be riding off road, rough trails, which I will be.  What I want from this bike is a good, solid trail machine that can cruise 75 on the highway when needed.  Not as trail worthy and a lot more pavement worthy than the KLX.

Edited by IDRIDR, 10 March 2012 - 09:24 AM.


  • Beezerboy

Posted 10 March 2012 - 10:51 AM

#15

I out weigh you by about 40. Nice thing about the Ricor valve is it simply drops in the hole.... just pull the spring, drop it in, reinstall the spring, fill with oli, reinstall the cap.... done.

I've heard the prejduce about fork brace off road.... I don't understand why anyone would make such statements on the KLR 650

  • IDRIDR

Posted 10 March 2012 - 12:20 PM

#16

Thanks for the reply.

About the fork brace, I don't know why they say it.  I'd like to be able to try both with and without.

  • highmarker

Posted 10 March 2012 - 06:20 PM

#17

My fork bushing wore fast with a brace so I took it off.   If you do put a brace on pull the fork springs and run the fork through full travel to see if there is any bind.  Mine there was not perfect parallelism in the forks.

  • Beezerboy

Posted 11 March 2012 - 12:31 AM

#18

yep gotta keep it all square. I load mine down & ride it in some rough spots... 30,000 miles plus & all good. (the red one is mine)

Posted Image

Edited by Beezerboy, 11 March 2012 - 12:32 AM.





 
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