Should I try to Jet my WR to YZ specs ??
Posted July 18, 2006 - 08:12 AM
Posted July 18, 2006 - 12:10 PM
Posted July 19, 2006 - 02:28 AM
If you change to YZ specs, expect to get sharper throttle response, less roll on, and a bit more popping.
You will still get the soot as chopping the throttle still results in unburnt fuel getting dumped.
Posted July 19, 2006 - 02:56 PM
Maybe in a while I'll break down and spend $400 on a new DG carb, simplify the solution.
Posted July 19, 2006 - 03:59 PM
Posted July 19, 2006 - 04:12 PM
yeah, they are picky, and I want to get mine just right, will eventually figure it out, I hate screwing with all the dam cables and hoses every time trying to get the carb off, and if i followed the manual, it would take 4 times as long.......
Yeah, the one good thing about it is that I can remove my carb, re-jet it and re-install it in about 20 mins. now. I started another thread asking people about aftermarket carbs, I'm seriously considering it now.
Posted July 20, 2006 - 07:02 AM
Posted July 20, 2006 - 06:26 PM
Posted July 21, 2006 - 06:33 AM
Posted July 21, 2006 - 07:12 AM
A 50 pilot sounds too rich at 3 turns out. You did not say what your other jets were but I would go back to basics and use the chart by Clark and Indy. They are THAT CLOSE. Then change ONE thing at a time.
For what its worth I would suggest blocking the ACV once you have the MJ, needle, pilot and leak sorted. People sing the praises of a ZERO leak but NO (carb) bike will be perfectly BOG free from idle with no load. I found the ACV richened the bike and I could not get steady low throttle running. I think my ACV was cutting in and out. The TPS helped but the bike ran rougher. So I recommend leaving TPS unless pure road riding. I tracked it to ACV interference when high carb vacuum state. the YZ does not have ACV carb (??) so the only way to achieve close to YZ jetting (42 Pilot) is to deactivate the ACV. If you want to try go to:
www.thumperfaq.com and gen up first-saves a lot of Qs.
The ACV supposedly prevents the popping by allowing LESS air to emulsify through the pilot circuit at closed throttle. While I cant be sure this is your problem (not all ACV springs are equal) I found that with the standard MAJ the bike was more responsive to idle and pilot circuit adjustments with the ACV blocked in the normal position - OPEN. With the ACV deactivated the bike will pop more. An extra 1/4 to 1/2 out on the screw lessens this but the bottom 1/8 to 1/4 throttle setting is a little rich then so can cause stutter, so then you are onto raising the needle clip etc etc. So, with ACV mod just accept the slight increase in POP. My .02
Posted July 21, 2006 - 07:37 AM