TrailTech Vapor user comments


85 replies to this topic
  • Fullbore4

Posted January 11, 2007 - 01:30 PM

#21

Here is the bracket I made from 1/8" aluminum:
Nice thing is it fits right where the OEM one did and is visible and protected. The Vapor is a slick unit!

http://i115.photobuc...1958/Vapor1.jpg

http://i115.photobuc...1958/Vapor2.jpg

  • jbrooks26

Posted January 11, 2007 - 02:21 PM

#22

Can you snap a pic from the seat for us? I would like to see the viewing angle in the riding position. It seems that the 426 mount is a little too deep to be seen behind the headlight and handlebars. Thanks, and nice work.

Josh

  • Fullbore4

Posted January 11, 2007 - 04:55 PM

#23

Can you snap a pic from the seat for us? I would like to see the viewing angle in the riding position. It seems that the 426 mount is a little too deep to be seen behind the headlight and handlebars. Thanks, and nice work.

Josh


I can't right now because I have the Vapor inside as it says in the manual not to store it below -7 deg F and its cold here. It is the same view angle as on an OEM 06 WR450 but I see you have the 426. But you could surely make it work just as well.

  • steve lemley

Posted January 11, 2007 - 05:58 PM

#24

Heres a couple pics from the billet mount that I used.

Posted Image

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  • jbrooks26

Posted January 11, 2007 - 08:05 PM

#25

Thanks Guys, I will have to try and fab something up. The little plastic mount works well, but I don't really like the looks of it. It is just a little cheasy looking. Thanks again,

Josh

  • steve lemley

Posted January 11, 2007 - 08:42 PM

#26

Buy the billet mount. It was 50$ and has rubber mounting for vibration. It looks good and protects the unit if you crash. Worth it to me!!!

  • Fullbore4

Posted January 11, 2007 - 10:22 PM

#27

Buy the billet mount. It was 50$ and has rubber mounting for vibration. It looks good and protects the unit if you crash. Worth it to me!!!


The billet mount doesn't protect if you go over backward on a hill. It costs 50 bucks, is heavy, has a lot of mass that stores heat and causes delay in ambient temperature readings. It doesn't look very good to me either.

Make a mount for 10 cents that places the meter where it was designed by yamaha to sit. Also the OEM place for it has built in rubber vibration isolators if you use steel/nylon lock nuts to hold a little bracket on and just don't cinch the nuts down too tight.

  • steve lemley

Posted January 12, 2007 - 06:45 AM

#28

Different strokes for different folks.... The mount weighs as much as a Big Mac If this much weight matters, you should be on the supercross circuit or not use the computer at all. If you mount in the stock location, you cant get to the buttons:excuseme: . Your mount has absolutly no protection value at all.

  • byggd

Posted January 12, 2007 - 01:47 PM

#29

Steve, Did you put it on your 400? If so did you hook it to the battery on the DS kit?

  • GCannon

Posted January 12, 2007 - 04:24 PM

#30

BYGGD You now have DC current at that tiny battery but you have to tap into it between the BD regulator and that little battery. I know this because I just hard wired my GPS and that was the only DC I could find which worked great for the low current electrontic items.

OMT riding at night with the GPS back light on was pretty cool.

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  • byggd

Posted January 13, 2007 - 04:39 AM

#31

Thanks GCannon :lol:

  • MountainMax

Posted January 13, 2007 - 07:22 AM

#32

thanks for your opinion, I am in the process (still) of installing one on my bike, had to custom make a mount for the 06 , but it won't be until may here b4 i can give her a test ride, too much snow.....

  • steve lemley

Posted January 13, 2007 - 08:11 AM

#33

Steve, Did you put it on your 400? If so did you hook it to the battery on the DS kit?


Yep. I acually removed my horn and taped into the power throught the baja designs switch so the power was on an acc. style power source so that it only used the bikes battery if in fact the bike was running. So.... I guess the answer is no, I didnt hook it to the battery, I taped into the ign switch instead. The issue with doing it this way is that my battery will no longer hold a charge now. I dont know if thats a seperate issue and the battery finally ran it's course or if they are related. I cant see it being related. If the switch is off there is no current draw through the switch so??????

  • byggd

Posted January 13, 2007 - 09:49 AM

#34

Yep. I acually removed my horn and taped into the power throught the baja designs switch so the power was on an acc. style power source so that it only used the bikes battery if in fact the bike was running. So.... I guess the answer is no, I didnt hook it to the battery, I taped into the ign switch instead. The issue with doing it this way is that my battery will no longer hold a charge now. I dont know if thats a seperate issue and the battery finally ran it's course or if they are related. I cant see it being related. If the switch is off there is no current draw through the switch so??????

I bought my BD kits off eBay. While it was still new in the bag with all the instructions etc the battery would only run the headlamp with the bike off for about 30 or 40 seconds. It also had problems running the blinkers if I sat at a turn for a time (the sensors don’t pick up my bike so sometimes I have to wait until a car comes along). If I switched to running lights only it seemed to do better. I did all the tests recommended by BD and it turned out to be a bad battery. IMO the battery is of poor quality, more suited to an RC car than a lighting kit so if it goes out again I will find something better.

I like the idea of hooking it in after the switch so I can switch it off at will…Thanks!

  • MountainMax

Posted January 13, 2007 - 10:56 AM

#35

did you do the stator mod for the BD kit, it makes sure the battery stays charged up. I can leave my stock headlamp on for 5 minutes no problem and still start my bike with it.

  • steve lemley

Posted January 13, 2007 - 01:43 PM

#36

If your headlight is 35watts or less the headlight should stay on for a couple of minutes. When my battery was good, the headlight worked perfect along with the blinkers and everything else. Once the battery starts to go bad nothing will work correctly until its replaced. If you run a headlight higher that 35watts you either have to do a stator upgrade or you will always have problems no matter if its good or not cause it simply cant handle any more wattage than that.

  • byggd

Posted January 13, 2007 - 04:18 PM

#37

did you do the stator mod for the BD kit, it makes sure the battery stays charged up. I can leave my stock headlamp on for 5 minutes no problem and still start my bike with it.

My understanding it that the stator mod is not required for the wr426 only for the 450…...did I miss something?? :lol: Seems to work fine after replacing the battery. I was just wondering if the draw of the Vapor is a problem?

  • Fullbore4

Posted January 13, 2007 - 05:15 PM

#38

If the vapor is fully functional with that little bitty battery it comes with and will last for a year, I hardly doubt it pulls any noticeable current at all.

  • steve lemley

Posted January 13, 2007 - 08:23 PM

#39

it runs off a 3volt watch battery. I called trailtech for inquire if a stator upgrade was necessary and they almost laughed at me. It draws nothing. Sorry about the stator comment aboveI was refering to a wr400. Cant seem to keep up on everyones years by heart!!! :lol:

  • bambam1

Posted January 18, 2007 - 09:12 AM

#40

I bought a Vapor for my 04 WR450 and have not completed the installation yet. I am not sure how to connect the RPM sensor. My plug wire type doesn't really match anything in the instructions. I'm not too sure if my kit came with the correct magnetic bolt, it doesn't seem to fit anywhere like what is shown in the instructions.

I would really appreciate it if anyone with a similiar WR installtion could post some pics of the RPM sensor wire install and the magnetic bolt and sensor install with cable routing.

Thanks in advance...




 
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