My 06 WR450 Stalls Easy in the tight trails


26 replies to this topic
  • MountainMax

Posted July 01, 2006 - 04:21 PM

#1

Can you guys give me some advice? I don't want to gear down as i drive this bike on the street and it's slow enough there as it is (top speed i mean) I would already gear taller but I know it would hurt my trail driving. Can I get a heavier flywheel? I know it's already heavier then a YZ, but is there a heavier one from yamaha or aftermarket? Is there any other ideas you guys can give me.

  • Looks450

Posted July 01, 2006 - 04:52 PM

#2

I was having this trouble as i am quite the muppet armed fella and didn't have the strength to be on the clutch all day.

This is what i put on my bike to let me run taller gearing and clutch all day.
http://www.ballards....ils&content=221

I can now commute to work at a reasonable pace and still do first gear trails.
Cheers
Looks

  • pkcof

Posted July 01, 2006 - 04:57 PM

#3

is there any reason that it stalls easy on tight trails ?
i ride a lot of that type of terrain and i jetted mine accordingly - i also increased the idle a little more than normal and found it helped ...

  • sniperd

Posted July 01, 2006 - 04:58 PM

#4

its probably because your not downshifting when needed

  • drewpeacock

Posted July 01, 2006 - 05:31 PM

#5

Get the Rekluse and you won't stall anymore. :ride:

  • ARin

Posted July 01, 2006 - 05:48 PM

#6

Get the Rekluse and you won't stall anymore. :ride:



he needs to learn how to ride with a clutch first, IMHO>


maybe look into getting a heavier flywheel..OR, get a better clutch system...an ASV or equivilent that will lighten the clutch pull...making your clutchwork easier and more accurate....not to mention less tiring.

AND LOOK AHEAD while riding, anticipate the next downshift...keep on top of it, and you will stall less.

  • Dodjy

Posted July 01, 2006 - 07:37 PM

#7

If your bike is tuned right down low (idle to half throttle plus acceleration enrichment) and you use 14/50 gearing you shouldn't have a problem in the tightest of trails. If your got YZ cam timing, maybe your better off without it. Flywheel weights will help but you may not like the loss of the "power hit" and you might loose a bit of control in the air. Gearing down for the ride might be your best bet.

  • tony1970

Posted July 01, 2006 - 08:33 PM

#8

I agree, it may have to do with the YZ cam. My WR stalls less than my XR did.

  • Stickshift

Posted July 02, 2006 - 06:21 AM

#9

There is one more possibility why you are stalling so frequently on tight trails - the rear brakes are so touch-sensitive on my '05 WR450F that I find myself killing it fairly frequently. I used to ride the rear brake a lot on my old KLX300 (I know, probably not the best thing to do anyway), so on my WR I have learned to 1) use the rear brake a lot less, and 2) pull in the clutch whenever I am going to do any serious rear braking. I will kill the engine about every time if I fail to clutch during rear braking. Could this be happening to this guy?

Do others experience the same thing? (This may be old news to most...) I have considered getting some of those carbon-carbon rear brake pads, they have less stopping power and wear more, but they don't fade and I suspect would help me modulate my rear braking power a bit more...

BG

  • Bamster

Posted July 02, 2006 - 07:07 AM

#10

I have almost gotten too used to 4 strokes in tight and twisty trails.
I rely too much on the engine braking now. I never stall and only need the clutch when the trail gets so tight that i have to dab my foot here and there.
Sounds to me like you just need to get faster and learn good trail technique.
Learn to stand more. Practicing at the local MX track will help.
You have to get out there and ride.

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  • airhose

Posted July 02, 2006 - 07:09 AM

#11

I've found that Silicon spray or Armor-All will fix your brake pads!!! They'll neer grab again... I'll tell you that for sure.

  • MountainMax

Posted July 02, 2006 - 07:28 AM

#12

I found it was ok to use my clutch but after a little while my hand gets sore and the clutch needs to be adjusted frequently then, im afraid of premature wear on the disks. I also find part of my problem is due to the quick throttle pull stall, it always stalls when i press the gas, i have the boyseen cover and adjusted the squirt to come out as soon as the slide clears , but if i do it quick she still stalls, and it done this with stock WR timing and YZ timing.... however i did notice some loss of bottom end torque with the yz cam, but love the higher revvein power

  • odonnks

Posted July 02, 2006 - 07:32 AM

#13

My thoughts are these...

Except for the flywheel you've pretty much got YZ in WR clothing. My experience is that a MX'r requires much more clutch input in the tight stuff. Now you still have the WR transmission which should help. The YZ pipe and cam moved the torque from the bottom end.
I stall my MXr much more than the WR which never stalls. I also dropped the driver one tooth. That made it near impossible to stall. It actually tractors along without clutch input. I have it a little rich on bottom which I think helps.

  • MountainMax

Posted July 02, 2006 - 12:29 PM

#14

how much speed would I lose by dropping one tooth up front?
i can get 143km/h top speed now stock.

  • odonnks

Posted July 03, 2006 - 05:58 AM

#15

I've never had mine topped out. The trails here aren't open enough.
I'm shre there is a way to calculate it but I don't know how. A replacement drive sprocket is around $15.00 (US). You'll need a inpact gun or a impact driver to loosen teh nut. Once teh nut is off ots a 5 min job.

  • Bamster

Posted July 03, 2006 - 06:07 AM

#16

how much speed would I lose by dropping one tooth up front?
i can get 143km/h top speed now stock.



Do you really need 143 KM/H ?. I run a 51 rear and swap between a 13 and 14 tooth counter shaft sprocket depending on how tight the trails are that I will be riding. Even with a 13 tooth front I can easily chug along at 80 to 100 km/h.
which is all I need on any given highway. I try to avoid road riding as much as possible as I find the bike very uncomfortable on the road and only use roads to connect trails.

  • MountainMax

Posted July 03, 2006 - 10:27 AM

#17

cool, I may drop the front one one size, and see how I like it, It's not an expensive test to do.

  • JimdogWR450

Posted July 04, 2006 - 12:39 AM

#18

I have been riding 2 strokes for almost 30 years and found myself stalling quite a bit on my 450 in the tight stuff. I wasn't used to the engine braking or having to pull in the clutch so much when applying the rear brake. I found that turning up the idle a bit, shifting down a gear to keep the rev up and clutching it when braking into the turn really helped.. Hope any of this helps ya

  • 06WR450FSM

Posted July 05, 2006 - 11:13 AM

#19

how much speed would I lose by dropping one tooth up front?
i can get 143km/h top speed now stock.


143kph x 13/14 = 133kph (82mph). Seems like plenty of top speed to me... It's just an issue for extended high speed cruising.

I can get my front sprocket off with normal hand tools, just have to put it in 1st and hold down the rear brake while reaching over the seat. It's worth experimenting since swapping the front sprocket is cheap. I also find that stalling comes from accidentally locking the rear brake.

  • MountainMax

Posted July 05, 2006 - 12:09 PM

#20

True, I do like to travel steady at about 100km/h though, I wish i had a tachometer to see how fast im revving, Im not sure but I would think extended high rpm's could be hard on the valves also.




 
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