1/8 sputtering? i am crying for help


44 replies to this topic
  • Dodjy

Posted June 28, 2006 - 06:38 PM

#21

It still points to a weak spark. Try closing the plug gap up and see if that makes it better. If it does, you have a weak spark. Check all connections, earths etc. If your plug was rusted, clean the terminal which connects to the plug. I assume you have already checked the float level?

  • lavoie du christ

Posted June 28, 2006 - 07:26 PM

#22

Plug gap is as the manual at +- 0.7mm.

i 've never adjusted the float level on that bike, ok i'll check the level along with another complete full clean up of the carb and another leak check.

  • grayracer513

Posted June 28, 2006 - 08:24 PM

#23

Why has no one mentioned the possibility of having installed the spring plate upside down when the slide was reinstalled?

It's a classic mistake. The plate goes on the engine side of the slide, with the "square edge" down, so the small hole in it is on the bottom. It looks like it should go the other way, but it doesn't, and it causes the exact problem you're describing.

  • lavoie du christ

Posted June 29, 2006 - 12:58 PM

#24

i've check the plate as the picture i think you have posted somewhere in here, The plate is on the motor side and little curve is placed toward the bottom.
i start to double doing everything... it's been the 6th day now i am working on it.

  • Dodjy

Posted June 29, 2006 - 03:57 PM

#25

[quote name='lavoie du christ']Plug gap is as the manual at +- 0.7mm.

Yep, but I mean close it up even more (0.5mm) to look for an improvement. If you have a weak spark, closing the gap should improve things, as it will ignite the mix easier. Then you just need to work out why you have a weak spark. If it makes no difference, most likely means it's not ignition.

  • 04450wrF

Posted June 29, 2006 - 08:39 PM

#26

checked for condensation/water in the fuel?
don't laugh......

  • bluebike1999

Posted June 29, 2006 - 08:42 PM

#27

i was thinking that too....

  • airhose

Posted June 30, 2006 - 03:06 AM

#28

I have been following your activities. Have you checked the kill switch to see if that is your problem? I've heard of a faulty switch causing similar trouble. Just a thought.

  • bandit99

Posted June 30, 2006 - 07:11 AM

#29

I've had the kill switch do that too. It is easy to check, just unplug.

  • Assassin

Posted June 30, 2006 - 07:20 AM

#30

What happens if the woodruff key pin sheers? That was the problem on a small percentage of the '03's.

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  • lavoie du christ

Posted June 30, 2006 - 09:55 AM

#31

I am getting out and i'll disconnect the kill switch. If the problem is the kill switch, i am laughing loud...if it's not i have to dig in the carby to clean it a second time.

If one day i find the problem i've promised God i'll be a good man.

  • MotoGoalie

Posted June 30, 2006 - 10:10 AM

#32

i've check the plate as the picture i think you have posted somewhere in here, The plate is on the motor side and little curve is placed toward the bottom.
i start to double doing everything... it's been the 6th day now i am working on it.


the little curve is supposed to be on the TOP of the carb. The square section is the bottom. I know that sounds wrong but it isn't. You must trust me. Grayracer told you the truth. You have it upside down and that's causing your problem.

I promise on the name of Patty Roy

  • LSmith

Posted June 30, 2006 - 12:06 PM

#33

It was a different make bike, but the same carb. A buddy of mine had a CRF250 with the EXACT problem -- sputter at 1/8 throttle. After 5 weeks and disaasembling a second good bike and using it to replace parts, he discovered a small groove that had been worn in the needle jet (not the needle, but the jet it passes through). As someone has already posted, it was running rich. No matter what jetting combo he tried, the mixture wasn't right because of the worn part. It was difficult to find because it wasn't that deep of a groove, but once he replaced that jet, problem solved. You've had the carb apart a few times -- one more time won't hurt!!

  • lavoie du christ

Posted June 30, 2006 - 05:00 PM

#34

i have just cleaned my carb again and verified the kill switch. The keihen can't be cleaner. Bug again. Now i really suspect the jetting is way far off. Yesterday the bike was running bad. Today the bike wasn't that bad. The temperature droped here form 86 to 68. I've put in the 42 pilot because the bike was running better fuel screw all back in with the 48 pilot. I wanted clean throttle so i decided to go up 4th clip on the OBDUQ. Worse. Then i have put it on the 2rd groove: worse badly. Sputter at the same time it does backfire.

At than point, i suspect a bad needle setup. OBDUQ is not standard on US WR but on CANADIEN one. OBDUT is standard on US model which is 3 step leaner than DUQ.

What do you think about my needle thought? What needle should i get ?

  • Assassin

Posted June 30, 2006 - 07:06 PM

#35

the little curve is supposed to be on the TOP of the carb. The square section is the bottom. I know that sounds wrong but it isn't. You must trust me. Grayracer told you the truth. You have it upside down and that's causing your problem.

I promise on the name of Patty Roy

he said he had curve at bottom, just like picture. He is correct. if he turn it up the other way, big problems.

  • lavoie du christ

Posted June 30, 2006 - 07:53 PM

#36

Yep the plate is correct,

Does someone have a JD kit for sale i could try on?

  • lavoie du christ

Posted July 02, 2006 - 12:30 PM

#37

Thanks guys for your help.

It helped me figured out it's not mechanical. I have just ordered a JD Kit. Bike is running really better since it's 68f outside. I've just bet 100$ (price for the kit) it's jetting related.

  • lavoie du christ

Posted July 18, 2006 - 01:37 PM

#38

ok time for some report,

I've got the JD kit put in the famous red needle on 4th clip and it was worse. i was sure the problem was the jetting. This made me mad, since i've spent 100$ for the kit. Then i've stored my bike in garage for one week.

Then before make the move to sell it, i decided to run the shit out of it, soo i disconnected the TPS it was slightly better the first time i've tried it... but almost perfect 2rd time.

My last try was to figure out why it run better with the TPS unplugged. Guess what i found the problem!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Took out the TPS to check if dirt was inside, it's sealed. But when i've put it back on the carb i realized the TPS can be adjusted!!! Yes there is a slot where the srew goes that make the TPS rotate if unscrewed. during my attempts to get the bike jetted right, i must have force the TPS wire which moved the TPS.

Thanks, i am happy as a monkey.

Bike now is running STRONG:
168 main
45pilot 2 1/2 turn out
red needle 4th clip :-)
KTM adjustable gas mixture screw
Ti-4 FMF pipe Air box cut and gray wire pulled
Temp : 80F/90F
I am gonna try 40 leak jet to copy everyone.

  • Scott_V

Posted July 18, 2006 - 05:41 PM

#39

My bike is a brand new old stock 2004 with exactly 12.1 miles on the tripmeter. I had the exact same problem first time out. I am planning on getting the JD kit, promoto baffle, and have already removed the snorkle. I am not anxious to remove the WR throttle stop yet.

I am really concerned about the situation too. They gave me the wrong manual when I bought the bike too. It is for a 2005 or newer because it shows the AIS and the newer exhaust.

My question is: does the correct manual show how to adjust the TPS? Mine looks like it could have been messed with. I would like to know the correct process to set it up.

  • lavoie du christ

Posted July 18, 2006 - 07:09 PM

#40

There is a green pencil mark on the top of the TPS. I've aligned this mark with the mark left on the carb side.

But if there is no mark, yes there is a way to adjust it right. You need a voltmeter and you mesure the output voltage and input voltage... look section 6-20 in the manual. Electrical. Manual is free on the internet it's easy to find one.




 
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