oil filter cover bolt stripped, help!


14 replies to this topic
  • EDGECRUSHER

Posted June 23, 2006 - 06:04 PM

#1

My friend called me tonight saying he stripped out that lower allen head bolt on the oil filter cover on his 1999 YZ400F. He was only turning it in by finger using an allen wrench and it just kept spinning so he pulled it out and noticed about 4 threads of aluminum on the end of the bolt. He said that's all that's in there is 4 threads, so I'm thinking this is probably a common problem. Pain in the ass is the fact that it's in the case and he just sold a perfect 400 engine on EBAY and shipped it out yesterday!lol

What should I tell him to do to fix this? Was there a recall or fix kit?

Thanks for any insight. Hopefully he won't need to helicoil it.
EDGE_

  • EDGECRUSHER

Posted June 23, 2006 - 06:17 PM

#2

never-mind I found the info!

  • crfmatt

Posted June 24, 2006 - 12:32 PM

#3

That sucks..I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago. :excuseme:

  • DRTYHRRY

Posted June 24, 2006 - 02:33 PM

#4

A way to avoid the problem in the future is to keep a cheap tap with your tools and each time you service the filter, coat the tap with grease and run it in and out (should go using your fingers) to clear out any metal filings which may ruin the threads. I think there have been posts on this in the past. Some guys silicone the drain hole from the filter to keep the filings out.

  • barch88

Posted June 24, 2006 - 03:08 PM

#5

I heard about that bottom one stripping on a lot of the older models.

  • flintlock28

Posted June 24, 2006 - 05:34 PM

#6

Anyone know the tap size???


Maybe M6 by 1.0????

  • Ga426owner

Posted June 24, 2006 - 07:11 PM

#7

Here is the best fix period

http://www.timesert.com/

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • yogist

Posted June 24, 2006 - 07:24 PM

#8

When your working on these bikes...clean your holes and bolts..your dealing with a cheap aluminum casting, not steel...these threaded holes will not take a lot of abuse...get a torque wrench if you dont have the "feel".. screw your bolts in by hand so you can feel any grit or misalighnment..Cleanliness is key..

  • BergArabia

Posted June 24, 2006 - 07:52 PM

#9

How do you suggest that we clean them? I normally try to flush things out with WD40. Do you think that is sufficient?

  • yogist

Posted June 25, 2006 - 05:35 AM

#10

Ill wire brush the bolt thread usually in gas. Inspect them..if the threads are at all boogered up they get replaced..the holes, you can use wd..or again gas..just a little..blow them out with compressed air covering them with a rag..A little grease on the bolt insures they all come out again..helps prevent galling of aluminun or seizing..Over tightening is the enemy...An oil drain bolt holds in the oil..its not the main bolt on the space shuttle.. go easy on those threads..buy a torque wrench and aquire a "feel"..We all know the bolts are cheap, and the holes are aluminum..extra care is essential..

  • flintlock28

Posted June 25, 2006 - 05:50 AM

#11

I'm not a big fan of torque wrenches, especially the clicker style......

I have seen quite a number of these wrenches (particularly if they haven't been used in awhile) give false readings that cause you to shear off a bolt. I broke off a bolt once that was a critical bolt on an Ultralight Aircraft that I owned. The wrench was a quality torque wrench that was brand new. I have heard many other stories from experienced Mechanics that have had the same thing happen. What happens on the "clicker" style wrenches is that the grease inside congeals over time if the wrench sits for awhile, and this causes the setting to not "click" at the appropiate setting. You're merrily torquing away, waiting for the "click" and it doesn't "click" until you've exceeded the proper torque...Snap! there goes the bolt..@$%^*!

I pretty much go by feel anymore.

  • yogist

Posted June 25, 2006 - 06:04 AM

#12

I'm not a big fan of torque wrenches, especially the clicker style......

I have seen quite a number of these wrenches (particularly if they haven't been used in awhile) give false readings that cause you to shear off a bolt. I broke off a bolt once that was a critical bolt on an Ultralight Aircraft that I owned. The wrench was a quality torque wrench that was brand new. I have heard many other stories from experienced Mechanics that have had the same thing happen. What happens on the "clicker" style wrenches is that the grease inside congeals over time if the wrench sits for awhile, and this causes the setting to not "click" at the appropiate setting. You're merrily torquing away, waiting for the "click" and it doesn't "click" until you've exceeded the proper torque...Snap! there goes the bolt..@$%^*!

I pretty much go by feel anymore.


I have one of those old style, long ones that flex..with the gauge and needle on it..I use that to calibrate my feel..Then I just do it by hand..Works for me, I havent had any problems..

  • BergArabia

Posted June 27, 2006 - 09:31 AM

#13

A way to avoid the problem in the future is to keep a cheap tap with your tools and each time you service the filter, coat the tap with grease and run it in and out (should go using your fingers) to clear out any metal filings which may ruin the threads. I think there have been posts on this in the past. Some guys silicone the drain hole from the filter to keep the filings out.


I know I could just take the bolt to get the tap size but can anybody say what it is?

  • DRTYHRRY

Posted June 27, 2006 - 10:33 AM

#14

6mm x 1.00

  • amcadavid

Posted June 27, 2006 - 12:35 PM

#15

Hi had the same thing happen on my 01 426,it was the bolt hole that also drains the filter housing.I removed that part of casing and had a machine shop put a thread insert in.(NOT A HELICOIL).cant drain housing oil from it know but have peace of mind that thread is A1





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