Beware of Wide "X or O" Ring Chings on 06


56 replies to this topic
  • STRAIGHT EDGE

Posted June 21, 2006 - 07:59 PM

#21

I had bought a renthal o-ring chain for my 06 and was about to install it this weekend. Anyone know if this chain will work or if it is too wide? Thanks

  • yami racer

Posted June 22, 2006 - 05:27 AM

#22

Just looked at mine and yes there is a little bite out of the frame with a DID Oring. I am going to flip the master and see if it helps...

  • ben_suhard

Posted June 22, 2006 - 10:27 AM

#23

I've decided not to flip the master link now, because it looked a bit too close to the case as it wrapped around the front sprocket.

  • 02YZ426

Posted June 22, 2006 - 01:50 PM

#24

Hopefully someone comes out with a guard for this.... I'm betting that most if not all chains are going to rub there.

  • Nitroused383

Posted June 22, 2006 - 07:59 PM

#25

I just got this new x ring chain that didnt have a normal clip type masterlink. I kinda pressed it together with various pliers and than mushroomed the end out. Now is there anyway to remove the chain? I think i took one too many links out doesnt look like i can take the chain off with turning the chain adjusters all the way in? thanks

  • ben_suhard

Posted June 25, 2006 - 03:25 AM

#26

I just got this new x ring chain that didnt have a normal clip type masterlink. I kinda pressed it together with various pliers and than mushroomed the end out. Now is there anyway to remove the chain? I think i took one too many links out doesnt look like i can take the chain off with turning the chain adjusters all the way in? thanks

I'm not exactly sure of what you want to know, but I'll have a go. Why do you want to take the chain off? If you take out the rear axle bolt you should be able to take the wheel out. You could use a different master link if you grind off the clip of the other one.

  • yogist

Posted June 25, 2006 - 05:52 AM

#27

I have an 04 yz450f and my subframe is tore to shit because of a shitty chain the guy i bought it from had on it. It was so bad it also hit the side of my tire and wore it out. My question is what is the best way to align your rear wheel with out using the marks, i think mine are off. thanks



I bought a cheap of of dial calipers.... .001 graduation...I measure from the top of the locking nut, to the underside of the head on the adjusting screw..Each side should be the same..If your within .010..I say plenty good..
I wouldnt trust them stamped out hash marks...I also record my measurement
So I can put it back the same way after a flat fix, and it also gives me reference on wear and stretch..

  • yogist

Posted June 25, 2006 - 05:59 AM

#28

Stainless sheet metal, around .032...fix it to the inside of the subframe..
Just thinking out loud..

  • ben_suhard

Posted June 25, 2006 - 06:45 AM

#29

The simplest (and most common) way to see if your rear wheel is lined up straight is to measure from the swingarm pivot bolt to the axle bolt on both sides.

Just to clarify: This is how to see if the markers are accurate(and see if both sides of the swingarm are the same length), and if they are, you can continue to use the markers to accurately adjust your axle.

  • no air charlie

Posted June 25, 2006 - 07:29 AM

#30

I have a Regina O ring chain on mine with 20 hours use and it does not show any signs of rubbing the frame. However, I do think after seeing this post I will replace it more often just to prevent any chance of that happening.

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  • cowboyona426

Posted June 26, 2006 - 09:10 PM

#31

I ran about 2.2 hours today with my RK X-ring and I couldn't see any wear on the frame despite it being a little loose by the end of the day.

  • DPW

Posted June 30, 2006 - 02:12 PM

#32

so what is everybody's chain slack set at ? The manual calls for between 1.9-2.3 inches, which seems loose to me..

  • 02YZ426

Posted June 30, 2006 - 04:00 PM

#33

so what is everybody's chain slack set at ? The manual calls for between 1.9-2.3 inches, which seems loose to me..



If you set the chain to spec, then sit on the bike the slack will tighten up. I keep my chain set to what the manual says.

  • barch88

Posted June 30, 2006 - 07:12 PM

#34

I take 2 fingers, put them under the chain on the end of the chain slider, if I can fit 2-2.5 fingers under the chain I say it's good. I have chubby fingers, so 3 fingers if your skinny.

Then theres this, which I think Im going to go do right now...

http://www.transworl...1127654,00.html

  • stock510

Posted June 30, 2006 - 08:16 PM

#35

Wouldnt putting a tie down on your exhaust to compress the suspension put A LOT of stress on the exhaust and make it bend?

Just do what the manual says..........

Put your bike on a stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and set the correct tension. Too easy. :ride:

  • stroker101

Posted July 01, 2006 - 10:17 AM

#36

i too have contact to the inside frame, very little though. i have a primary drive sprocket and chain set on my 06. the chain is an x-ring(all gold)

  • Blue_White_Rider

Posted July 03, 2006 - 08:08 PM

#37

dumped the stock chain for a high quality DID and no more side to side slap while riding. even tried to pull the chain sideways to see if it was possible and its not even close.

  • Bigcr

Posted July 03, 2006 - 08:35 PM

#38

Wouldnt putting a tie down on your exhaust to compress the suspension put A LOT of stress on the exhaust and make it bend?

Just do what the manual says..........

Put your bike on a stand so that the rear wheel is off the ground and set the correct tension. Too easy. :ride:


The way the pipe is mounted, it probably wouldn't hurt. However, considering the cost of one, I wouldn't do it. You have the right idea.

  • grayracer513

Posted July 03, 2006 - 08:50 PM

#39

so what is everybody's chain slack set at ? The manual calls for between 1.9-2.3 inches, which seems loose to me..

It does seem loose, but if the wheel's aligned, loose isn't really a problem. Here's some things to keep in mind.

> The spec'd measurement in the manual is not the actual slack in the chain, it's the distance from the rear slider bolt to the chain when you pull up on it.

> The chain tension must be measured on a stand in order to provide a consistent reference.

> The point in the suspension travel where the swing arm pivot and both sprocket centers are aligned is the tightest place, but full extension is not necessarily the loosest. That's because the lower run of chain runs up and over the lower roller, taking some of the slack out in the last 2" or so of travel. Regardless, the manual takes this all into account, and if you adjust as prescribed, you will have adequate slack throughout the range of travel, unless something was modified. In that case, you should remove the shock and test the tension through the full range of travel.

  • barch88

Posted July 03, 2006 - 11:32 PM

#40

3 Fingers under the chain at the rear chain slider bolt. Thats what I got, chain seems loose, it ran fine today.





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