650R Bottom end?


8 replies to this topic
  • Thumpmeister

Posted June 19, 2006 - 07:14 PM

#1

So, I took my bike to the Honda Tech today to get his 'professional' opinion on this ticking sound, and this is what he said...

He said it sounded like my rod bearing was shot. I find it particularly hard to believe, but he thought the ticking sound was coming from the bottom end, and he said that what he thought it was.

Anyone else have this issue, or any bottom end issued besides the countershaft seal and clutch bushing?

  • Max Power

Posted June 19, 2006 - 07:42 PM

#2

What does the oil and filter look like?

  • rcnutt

Posted June 19, 2006 - 10:48 PM

#3

these bikes are LOUD.when I first got my 2000 I thought the rod was going but 3000 miles later same noises and she still rips.if the small end was going she would have siezed long before 3000 miles.when she stops running ,Thats when you fix it.untill then ,just ride and enjoy.

  • Thumpmeister

Posted June 20, 2006 - 01:59 AM

#4

these bikes are LOUD.when I first got my 2000 I thought the rod was going but 3000 miles later same noises and she still rips.if the small end was going she would have siezed long before 3000 miles.when she stops running ,Thats when you fix it.untill then ,just ride and enjoy.


I figured the same thing. This noise has been going on for YEARS now, it did it before and after the rebuild. There has been no lack of power or performance in any way.

And as for the oil, nothing seen; no metal flakes or chunks in the filter, so I'd assume I'm safe.

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  • Falls A Lot

Posted June 20, 2006 - 03:11 AM

#5

Typically, a rolling element bearing will not make noise for very long. So I find it hard to digest that your noise is from the crank / rod area.

Do you have the means to determine actual engine rpm at idle? If so, time the noise and determine if it aligns with crank or camshaft speed.

"Noise" is VERY subjective. I think my bike emits less mechanical racket from the engine cases than my brother's new orange 4-stroke.

At the risk of pointing out something you know very well, I assume you are ONLY rotating the engine over in the normal direction of rotation when locating TDC-Compression for a valve lash, right? Otherwise, rolling it backwards will activate the kickback feature of the decompression mechanism, leading to false exhaust valve clearance measurements and excessive exhaust valve lash in operation.

  • ghoti

Posted June 20, 2006 - 04:31 AM

#6

I figured the same thing. This noise has been going on for YEARS now, it did it before and after the rebuild. There has been no lack of power or performance in any way.

And as for the oil, nothing seen; no metal flakes or chunks in the filter, so I'd assume I'm safe.

I hope you don't go back to that professional again.

  • captb

Posted June 20, 2006 - 07:16 AM

#7

I've had alot of engines with balancers and they all made noise except my Blackbird, (they're adjustable on the Bird and it'd a 4 cyl and smooth) the thumpers just make everything clatter at low rpms, the bigger the engine the more clatter, my 650L was quieter but had a heavy flywheel thus smoother running. My friend built a 600R and removed the balancer it was very quiet but vibrated very bad, the balancer had to go back in.

  • Thumpmeister

Posted June 20, 2006 - 10:04 AM

#8

Typically, a rolling element bearing will not make noise for very long. So I find it hard to digest that your noise is from the crank / rod area.

Do you have the means to determine actual engine rpm at idle? If so, time the noise and determine if it aligns with crank or camshaft speed.

"Noise" is VERY subjective. I think my bike emits less mechanical racket from the engine cases than my brother's new orange 4-stroke.

At the risk of pointing out something you know very well, I assume you are ONLY rotating the engine over in the normal direction of rotation when locating TDC-Compression for a valve lash, right? Otherwise, rolling it backwards will activate the kickback feature of the decompression mechanism, leading to false exhaust valve clearance measurements and excessive exhaust valve lash in operation.



I too found it hard to swollow when the tech told me that the noise was coming from the bottom end, because in my experience on XR's, the bottom ends rarely go bad. The only bottom ends I would see regular failure one were the mid 80's 200's, 250's, and 350's. With that dual carb set-up they had, they tried to make the bike as light as possible, and as fast as possible, and they compromised the legendary Honda reliability.

No way to determine engine RPM, at least not w/ the tools I have.

And yes, I found out very early in the years owning my BRP that valve adjustment is very temperamental; go anymore past that 'T' mark, and the auto decomp starts opening up, which brings me to another point...

I think I found whats been causing the noise. Since the rebuild, I've had this sneaking suspicion that the noise has been coming from the auto decomp system, as said in my other post. And, I just recently found another guy whose said that the auto decomp is one of things prone to failure on the 650r's.

I'm just going to buy a Hotcam and toss that in there to get rid of the whole stupid system.

  • weskc35k

Posted June 20, 2006 - 10:46 PM

#9

Attaboy,hey pull your clutch lever in with the bike idleing and the chuga chuff noise goes away,on most motors this is usually the throwout bearing going but it means SFA on a BRP.
I would say you got a decomp kickback valve set issue.Reset like the above post and she'l be apples.





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