Front brake upgrade required



12 replies to this topic
  • Taffy

Posted November 04, 2001 - 11:55 PM

#1

i need a stronger front brake and i think that the mastercylinder is too small at 11mm.

i believe the '00/'01 brake was beefed up.

my disc is 245mm so what do you all recommend?

braided hose?

by the way i'm not adverce to another make of cylinder. i'd like one where the outlet is facing the steering head and not the front.

WHY?

Taffy

  • Ynahg

Posted November 05, 2001 - 02:03 AM

#2

I think you would be surprised what difference a braided hose can make.
You also might try softer brake pads.
Offcourse the cheapest way is to brake less :)

  • MN_Kevin

Posted November 05, 2001 - 02:48 AM

#3

Taff,
The Ultra Trick way to go is to snag an entire front master cylinder off of a Honda.

IMO, the steel braided hose DOES improve braking.

BTW,
I replied to your e-mail about my jetting. I found out last night, the message (from TT) stated DO NOT REPLY TO THIS MESSAGE. I guess that means my lengthy reply never made it to you(?)

Tonight, I hope to start & finish setting my APJ diaphragm stroke using the KL mod to my APJ cover.
I found the fuel stream from the APJ was >2 seconds. I immediately crapped my pants, came in the house and slapped on a clean pair of skivvy's and jeans, then threw the "soiled" ones into the laundry. (Not really, just trying to emphasize my surprise!) but I was EXTREMELY surprised the fuel stream lasted that long!

I have a Turkey Run w/ Ron from Connecticut (and Mike68 and Mark Trip??) on Sunday Nov. 11, and have to have this bike running good enough to not foul a thing.

  • mcarp

Posted November 05, 2001 - 06:28 AM

#4

Taff-

I vote for steel braided lines as well. Fastline's are fitted front and rear on my '00 WR. Strong but not grabby! I'm using the stock style routed WR lines, and contrary to other beliefs, it works with both the stock WR headlight and Acerbis YZ number plate. Supposedly the CR routed lines work a little better, but do not work with the headlight. Can't confirm that, though. I'm happy with the braking with just the steel line and stock pads. In fact my front brake pad is pretty much down to it's last ride and it still works well!

  • Taffy

Posted November 05, 2001 - 12:21 PM

#5

thanks lads, it's so hard when your a newbie. it's so good to know you can find help!

Kev
that's a strange message!

to all
i associate a braided hose with less lever movement which is good. i want something that has lot's of BWE from the moment i touch it and i normally associate that with bigger rotor or 1mm larger piston in the m/c.

nobody out there has said whether the Y2K and '01 have a beefed up brake yet so c'mon boys let's have some help in return!

ta in advance

Taffy

  • sirhk

Posted November 05, 2001 - 12:33 PM

#6

I bought my bike used and it had a Fastline steel braided hose and oversized disk. The guy that routed the line had it so that it had hit the disk once and wore through the braided part but not the hose itself. Anyways, 2nd ride the hose blew on me and I put the stock one on that he luckily gave me so I wasn't out any $. Instant difference. The breaks felt a little more squishy and it took more pull to feel them start. So, now I've got the stock hose and a oversized disk. It makes a HUGE difference though. My bike is a 99 YZ400 and anytime I hop on either my friends 98 YZ400 or another guys 00 YZ250 the first thing I notice are that their brakes suck. Not nearly the power of mine. They both could actually pull the lever all the way and touch the grip where on mine there is no way I can hit the grip with the lever. I'll measure tonight if I remember how big my disk is but I love it and would definately recomend getting a oversized disk and the spacer to relocate the piston/pads. One day when I have the extra $70 laying around I'll get the steel braided line and put it on. Actually I'm going to have one made cause it's cheaper. If I do this do you think I would actually notice a difference between a steel braided line routed the stock length and location VS. the CR style routing and length?

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  • WR_Jason

Posted November 05, 2001 - 01:03 PM

#7

Any one got an online source for the steel cables, or the length for a 99 WR so I can have one made without taking mine off :) . Who makes that kinda stuff? can napa do it or should I try a hydrolic shop?
How bout the oversized disk and caliper spacer? Dose that mean my disk gaurd wont fit?
Hey anyone ever tried fitting a street bike master cylinder? Most are dual caliper two, three, or even 4 piston rigs, that should have a big enough master cyl piston for ya :D .

  • sirhk

Posted November 05, 2001 - 01:22 PM

#8

Jason,
Probably not much help but I've always gotten my Steel Braided Cables made at a local Race Shop, you know like Race Cars. They can get them in colored lines with the plastic hose around them. Pretty cool looking stuff. As for the make of my oversized disk and stuff, I don't know but I'm sure you can walk into any MX shop and ask them for an oversized disk and they'll suggest a manufacturer.

  • Ron_in_SoCal

Posted November 05, 2001 - 02:21 PM

#9

Hi guys. I?ve been away for a while and it looks like I?ve missed a lot. Things sure look different here. As for brakes, mine are roached and I?m in need of an upgrade too.

Links that might help us:

Oversized rotors : BRAKING

Adjustable ratio master cylinder: AP Racing

  • powellrl

Posted November 05, 2001 - 02:53 PM

#10

Taffy,

The 2001 WR426 has a 250mm disc, which is 5mm larger than the 2000 model year. They also upgraded the brake pads for more grip and gave it a more rigid caliper mount. It also has a Nissin front brake master cylinder which increased power, reducing lever pull.

I hope this is what you were looking for.

  • Dave_VanBrocklin

Posted November 05, 2001 - 05:21 PM

#11

Hi taffy,
I would definitely get rid of the akebono master cylinder, and swap on a Nissin off a 01 model,(Unfortunately the outlet is in the same location). There is ALOT of difference in feel and power. I would also recommend a braided line for the front at least, It really helps the "feel" of the brake.I don't think you would need to go to a larger front rotor, at least until you do the first two mods(or unless you are getting brake fade problems). Let us know what you are going to do!!

Talk to you later
Dave

  • Taffy

Posted November 05, 2001 - 11:39 PM

#12

i'll have a word with my local yam dealer who race alot of this stuff then i'll let you know.

i'm thinking of getting some stuff from the states as it all adds up doesn't it.

can anyone link me to that yam dealer with all the parts pictures (did that narrow it down?) that have good prices.

i get the feeling that when this disc starts to get worn i shall put in an oversize rotor. in the meantime i bet those nissen's are expensive so i may have a look at a braided pipe re-routed while i'm there.

just a little side track for y'all;
when i started roadracing in 1981 everyone was fitting aeroquip hoses to their 250/350LC's. then the powervalve came out and in march/april everyone did the same again (as usual, right?) only to take them off in the summer due to a lack of feel.

large mastercylinders and braided pipe's CAN produce a lack of feel. we'll see. i'm riding a Y2K in three weeks and i will know better then.

nice to see you're still about mr brocklin!

Taffy

  • MN_Kevin

Posted November 06, 2001 - 01:09 AM

#13

http://www.hlsm.com/

Taff, I am telling ya, GET THE HONDA NISSAN MASTER CYLINDER!!

My 91 CR had much better front binder than my 99WR. This goofy Akebono belongs on an old Benelli!! :)




 
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