The BEST engine oil is ???? Syn vs Conv.


120 replies to this topic
  • bg10459

Posted June 13, 2006 - 06:08 AM

#41

I’ll have to agree with DigilubeJay in that Amsoil may not be the best oil, but then again, no one can tell us what the best oil is.
While I have not done any UOA’s, as far as I know, DigilubeJay has not done any of his own, either. It seems, at least to some degree, that he relies on the UOA’s of another TT member to base his opinions. However, gray has also done UOA’s, albeit fewer, with differing results. The big difference I notice is that the 22 UOA’s DigilubeJay refers to are from a 250f, ridden at an unknown intensity. The 4 gray refers to are from, I believe, a 450f, again, ridden at an unknown intensity. I assume the 450 will put less stress on an oil than a 250. Of course, I cannot back this up with fact, this is only my belief, but the UOA’s referred to seem to back up that assumption.
As stated previously in this thread, the conditions an oil is subjected to will vary between machines and users. To state that one oil is better than another because it was run in the same bike (it wasn’t) under similar conditions (similar is relative), is purely speculation. The only way you can determine what is best for your machine and riding habits is by doing your own UOA’s, and many of them on the same oil to average out anomalies.
That being said, I am confident the Shell Rotella T 15w40 that I run is providing adequate protection. I change it and clean my filter every weekend I ride, whether it’s 20 miles or 200.
Bottom line, change it hot, change it often. :excuseme:

  • Matty05

Posted June 13, 2006 - 06:18 AM

#42

Why would any high grade oil not last for 15 hours? That's not a lot of time. We run oil in our cars for many more hours than that.

It is the gears and clutch that ruin the low volume of oil. Both of these systems are seperate in cars.

  • Matty05

Posted June 13, 2006 - 06:28 AM

#43

Nothing like a good old oil thread!!!!!

What a laugh! :excuseme:

  • grayracer513

Posted June 13, 2006 - 07:12 AM

#44

I assume the 450 will put less stress on an oil than a 250.

It depends on what kind of stresses. On the issue of shear, it probably puts more load on the oil than the smaller bike due to the greater torque produced (to the extent that that extra power is actually used), and the extra weight of the internal components. Then again, there are a lot of variables; the size of the supporting bearings, the surface area of the transmission gears, etc.

However, one of my UOA's was of Amsoil MCF from the 250F with 5 hours on it, and it was in grade as well.

  • bg10459

Posted June 13, 2006 - 10:38 AM

#45

It depends on what kind of stresses. On the issue of shear, it probably puts more load on the oil than the smaller bike due to the greater torque produced (to the extent that that extra power is actually used), and the extra weight of the internal components. Then again, there are a lot of variables; the size of the supporting bearings, the surface area of the transmission gears, etc.

My assumption was based on the fact that the 250's typically run at a higher RPM than the 450's. I rarely get the revs too high with mine. I'm sure this comes into play. To what degree, I am uncertain. :excuseme:

  • DigilubeJay

Posted June 13, 2006 - 07:50 PM

#46

The big difference I notice is that the 22 UOA’s DigilubeJay refers to are from a 250f, ridden at an unknown intensity.

Though I do not know the level of Steve's proficiency, or the intensity at which he rides, I feel he is probably consistent with whatever that level may be.
For trending data that would be an important factor.
I have to assume he is working the engine rather hard, as he has sheared out most of the oils he trys in short order.

I have done many UOA's as well as VOA's. Just none that are pertinent to this discussion.

What is the rev limiter difference between a 450 and 250?

  • grayracer513

Posted June 13, 2006 - 09:27 PM

#47

What is the rev limiter difference between a 450 and 250?

11,500 vs. 13,500

  • crayztwentyseven

Posted June 13, 2006 - 11:07 PM

#48

I use olive oil in my bike.....Awesome stuff!! And it smells great!

  • Fastdaddy

Posted June 14, 2006 - 08:40 AM

#49

How does yamalube 4 R stack up anyone know. I use this and havn't had any problem. Other than the expene of changing so frequently.But the irony is I am a trucker and use rotella 15/40 in my cat, with great success. I usually get 1-2 gallons of this a month for free due to using lucas oil treatment. the shop returns my oil back as they use a flat rate oil charge. I have heard of people using the rotella but thought surely it was a wives tale. It sure would be good to use something that I dont have to pay eight bucks a bottle for. Rotella guys speak up please.
Thanks Mike

  • polarbear

Posted June 14, 2006 - 11:08 AM

#50

ok. Thanks for all the info guys! Now, my question is can I buy any of these oils at Walmart? And if so... which ones?
Another question... I used to work with a retired Chemical Engineer for Exxon. He said that Quaker, Penzoil and Valvoline are crappy oils because they are Parafin Wax based. After about one hour of lecture this is about the only thing I understood. Can you oil genious' expand on this? Is it a problem with Motos? Or only Vehicles? I still want to know which oils I can buy at walmart that will work both engine and tranny on my CRF 450.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • xcape

Posted June 14, 2006 - 11:55 AM

#51

ok. I still want to know which oils I can buy at walmart that will work both engine and tranny on my CRF 450.


You should ask on the honda forum.....They are real nice over there.

  • Ga426owner

Posted June 14, 2006 - 01:15 PM

#52

ok. Thanks for all the info guys! Now, my question is can I buy any of these oils at Walmart? And if so... which ones?
Another question... I used to work with a retired Chemical Engineer for Exxon. He said that Quaker, Penzoil and Valvoline are crappy oils because they are Parafin Wax based. After about one hour of lecture this is about the only thing I understood. Can you oil genious' expand on this? Is it a problem with Motos? Or only Vehicles? I still want to know which oils I can buy at walmart that will work both engine and tranny on my CRF 450.



Here they are bored too talking about oil.....
http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=384494

  • DRH

Posted June 14, 2006 - 03:45 PM

#53

I don't know about the Yamalube you are buying but I used the 4 dollar a quart one. Its the only oil I have ever put in my 99 YZ400F and this thing has more miles and hours on it than anything else I have ever owned and it is still running strong. It still has the original valves in the motor and is only on its second piston.

  • polarbear

Posted June 14, 2006 - 05:33 PM

#54

Heres something interesting from another thread on Rotella T oil. Check it out...


i would take samples from race bikes after every change,
some were 15min runs and some were 30 min and some at the 4 stroke national were 50 min run,
i send them all to a buddy of mine that runs the lab at empire machine and he runs analysis's on them all .

i have been doing this for years trying to come up with the best oils for racing use in off road truck, Baja, mx and superbike racing.

and hands down the Castrol R bean oil was the clear best,---then the conventional rotella t non sys and the mobil Delvac 1300 non syn and the yamah lube believe it or not were the best we can get here in the states,

the Shaffer's was ok .

most all the conventional oils in class 3 diesel application are so highly refined that they are better in every way than any of these so called syn oils.

i have not found a syn oil that will last over 30 min in a mx application in a yamaha sharing the trans with the motor.
in most cases all the syn oils sheer out quicker and do not stand up like they are supposed to.
the rotella t non syn is very good oil,

the castrol R bean is unreal, ( only oil that makes it through Baja )

an xr 650 will kill the syn oil in it and be locked up before the first check point generally

you need to dump the oil or oils in these race bikes every 30 min to 1 hr of run time anyway,
so why would you want to run 9-12 dollar a qt oils when an 8 dollar a gallon oil works better

  • xcape

Posted June 14, 2006 - 06:13 PM

#55

9. Castor Bean Motor Oil
The superior "oiliness" of castor oil and its ability to "cling" to very hot moving parts make it an outstanding racing oil for high performance engines. In fact, it is the basic ingredient of Castrol-R racing motor oil for high speed automobile and motorcycle engines. Castor oil is a popular fuel additive for two cycle engines, and imparts a distinctive aroma to the exhaust of these engines. Castor wax, a hard wax produced by the hydrogenation (chemical combination with hydrogen) of pure castor oil, is used in polishes, electrical condensers, carbon paper, and as a solid lubricant.




For those who dont know!

  • the426master

Posted June 14, 2006 - 06:32 PM

#56

I only use shell rotella t 10w 40 in all my rides all year round I have a 1985 xr 350 that has thousands of miles on it and rotella t is the only thing that has ever been run it and no motor overhaul ever I have a xl 200 with 35458 original miles on it and has only received shell rotella t in it and I just put new rings in it last month because it started smoking after a mouse eat a hole in the air cleaner and it sucked dust it and my 01 wr426 has only received rotella t and I ride it harder than hell and the only thing I have had to do is change 2 shims in for the exhaust valves which had nothing to do with oil I recommend shell rotella t to every body :excuseme: :bonk: :busted:

  • DigilubeJay

Posted June 14, 2006 - 06:52 PM

#57

Shell Rotella T, Chevron Delo 400, Mobil Delvac 1300 are all quality heavy duty engine oils that have shown to do great jobs in wetclutch dirt bikes.
Proven economical winners.

Easily obtainable too, as all of these are available at WalMart, and each will go for the same price per gallon as a quart of boutique snake.

  • 00YZ426FMRCD

Posted June 14, 2006 - 08:08 PM

#58

This post is like an itch that wont go away.... I love it.... (So did she) :bonk:

I run Sam's club synthetic INYA 10W/40.... :excuseme:

  • 642MX

Posted June 15, 2006 - 05:07 PM

#59

I run Sam's club synthetic INYA 10W/40.... :excuseme:





:busted: :bonk:

  • konkubine

Posted June 15, 2006 - 06:57 PM

#60

Thank You all! I have never been so thouroughly entertained for free in my life. I rock a 03 yz450f and am the third owner. The bike is geared +1/-1 and in maine we have fire roads and snowmobile trails that are straight for hundreds of miles. I hold my bike wide open for hours at a time in 4th, only to stop, eat, and burn greenery. I have changed the oil twice and filter once with Yamalube in 2 years and the bike runs exactly the same as when I drove it from the dealer. I have no clue how many hours, but I believe it is the original topend.
I am calling my stock broker tommorrow to invest in a syn oil manufacturer that charges $10/quart. God Bless Yamaha Engineers and all you fruity bastards. I cannot wait for the next oil thread to begin. Good Times.





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