I know you're all sick of discussing exhausts. But...

34 replies to this topic
  • paul913

Posted April 18, 2000 - 10:16 AM


Originally posted by Mike Train:
1. Buy an automotive 1 3/4"-90 degree exhaust bend. The size is important; it fits perfectly over a sleeve inside the end cap.

Anyone know where to buy automotive exhaust pipe and any idea of what it will cost?

  • Kevin_in_New_Hampshire

Posted April 18, 2000 - 11:40 AM


Any auto parts store will have it. Bring in your exhaust tip to ensure the auto pipe will fit in the hole. You will see the pipes labeled 1-3/4" I.D. or O.D. That would be inner diameter or outer diameter. I would assume it is O.D. That is why you should bring your exhaust tip in to make sure. The price can't be more than a few bucks.

  • flash

Posted April 18, 2000 - 07:16 PM


Don't buy the Big Gun direct from them. You can get it from dealers a lot cheaper. In the current Rocky Mountain catalog, they have the complete single pipe system for $299.99 and the SDS for $327.99. The spark arrestor kit is $79.99.

  • mcarp

Posted April 18, 2000 - 07:25 PM


I really want to see a dyno graph on these pipes before I buy. Is this upcoming in amy of the mags out there? Hi-rpm power is not important to me as low and mid grunt for woods/hills/mudholes, Bryan sounds like you like the low end pull as well.

There are so many choices and so many opinions, it's a tough decision.

The staintune and the DSP tapered are my two best bets, but I am going to wait for a few months before I do anything (budget thing). How much is ther tapered model, i didn't see it on the DSP website

Mitch, any more info on the staintune? It looks cobbly, but hey if it performs well on the bottom and mid, I would like more info!!!

  • Bryan

Posted April 19, 2000 - 05:22 AM


Yes, I'm looking for a pipe to compliment the YZ timing. With this timing the bike completely rips in the mid range and up high. But, changing over to this timing left the low end alone (some would argue that it decreased low end but I don't agree). I'm thinking a pipe that boosts low end torque would smooth out the power band. Although, I'm really not complaining with it like it is now. I'm just always looking for more more more.

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted November 18, 2000 - 08:18 AM


Originally posted by Ben from London:
CGH imports in England do a carbon fibre canned DSP pipe which is slightly larger than the metal one and quieter, it has a spark arrestor and is sound tested at 96dbls.

ahhh,at last a u.k. wr400 owner!!
I thought I was the only one,
i,ve a y2k bike and need a bit of help
A:want a pipe but cant find any info/dyno
B:jetting,following on from above,
lots of info on site for the yanks,but
nothing come up yet for u.k.
c:cam timing,know anyone here try it?
i keep thinking about it but waiting for
some u.k. feedback
regards kev

  • Gary_Kessler

Posted November 18, 2000 - 06:42 PM


I ride a DSP pipe and DSP straight thru header. I've been riding it for about 10 months now. I ride desert, and open forest.

After doing some research, I narrowed the pipes down to DSP and Big Gun. DSP pipes are extremely well finished and fit beautifully. I agree with John in Long Beach, the pipe is no louder than a WR with the baffle removed. I found with YZ timing, it added throughout the range, especially in the mid-range. My low end has more torque than I will ever need, and my midrange is awesome. I really don't worry about the topend because if I went that fast, I'd probably pancake on a Yucca cactus and that HURTS!

Basically ANYTHING you get will improve the performance over the stock WR exhaust. MY guidelines were fit and finish, cost and performance, in that order. You might want to consider the FMF powerbomb w/Stoker silencer too. Let us know what you decide!

Boy, I'm exhausted now. . . . :)

Damper?! I don't NEED no stinkin' damper - I have insurance!!!

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  • Darren_Santilli

Posted November 19, 2000 - 02:35 AM



I too live in the uk, and have a 2000WR.

Where do you ride? Maybe we can hook up for a ride.

If you register, people can email you.


  • smitty33

Posted November 21, 2000 - 07:57 AM


Check out my review of the white bros. e-series.

Might help out!


P.S. I, Bryan, added another slash to your url so folks could get there automatically from this reply. I hope you don't mind.
P.P.S.S. Oops! I see you already did that below. Doooooh!

[This message has been edited by Bryan (edited 11-21-2000).]

  • smitty33

Posted November 21, 2000 - 07:58 AM


sorry fellas forgot a /

Keep your stick on the ice!

  • Brandon

Posted November 21, 2000 - 11:35 AM


Noise doesnt bother me,so if i take off the air box lid and remove the stock baffle, will the power change be much of a difference compared to the aftermarket exhausts you have mentioned?? Also will I have to change the jetting in order to compensate for no lid or baffle??

  • Steve_Morgan

Posted November 21, 2000 - 12:02 PM


I'm running the Yamaha GYT-R system, with the new stainless 2-stage header and carbon fiber cannister. It's a straight-through design, that has awesome response throughout the powerband. The new 2-stage header is a big improvement in low end torque, with no compromise in top end. GYT-R's original large diameter single-stage header pipe knocked down the torque. It's still loud, but not as loud as the stock system w/o baffle. I've dropped the noise further by making my own 2-stage packing: 1/4" 4-stroke fiberglass mat on the outer layer, and lighter 2-stroke fiberglass packing as the inner layer. The 2-stroke packing blows out after about 3 days of riding, but it's worth it to me since it really cuts the noise.

  • Mech

Posted November 21, 2000 - 08:36 PM


Hey Steve,
How much does the GYT-R 2 stage header cost and where did you buy it. If possible post a picture. Thanks :)

  • Kermit

Posted November 23, 2000 - 05:17 PM


Jake, I paid about $4.00 for my auto exhaust tip it can be bought at any auto supply house. I used a 1-7/8" inside diameter one it fits perfectly the 1-3/4" one was a touch too small.Cut it to fit, I cut the pipe at a 45? degree angle (ah...that looks good I think I'll cut it there...yep..that works) Use black silicon to seal the two pipes together and a stainless steel screw to hold it. I put mine through the old bolt hole from the stock baffle. I also painted it black. This DOES take the sharpness out of the exhaust note, BUT, is still loud. I like that about the bike for safety reasons, people HEAR ya coming. Of coarse cops tend not to like it. :) Mike has photos of this on the front page (go to the technical section you'll find it)...that is where I got the idea from. It takes only 15 minutes...longer if you actually wait for the paint to dry.

[This message has been edited by Kermit (edited 11-23-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Kermit (edited 11-23-2000).]

  • Dan_Lorenze

Posted November 27, 2000 - 07:18 AM


Bryan, I too run the stock muffler with the baffle out, Man the bike is loud! Most of the time it doesnt matter but when I go to race in the desert the BLM rep is there with his handy meter. Last week I failed to pass and they told me to quiet the bike down, thank god that I had a Vortip in my toolbox to help the situation. I would love to try a DSP or SDS sys. But what would happen if it doesnt pass the sound test? Then what do I do? Lets say I buy a SDS for $325.00 then the Spark arrester option for $80.00 will I really gain major power to make it worth it? I bet the answer will be no! See ya Dan


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