looking for aftermarket 86 xr6r cdi


10 replies to this topic
  • timothypg

Posted June 03, 2006 - 05:12 PM

#1

cdi went out today. does anyone know were to get one other than my local dealer. ricks, hot shot series makes them for 93-00 but they won't work on mine a tech i called said. any ideas. thanks. tim

  • XR6's_rule

Posted June 04, 2006 - 01:11 AM

#2

Before you go rushing out and buying a new cdi unit for your xr, i'd get the stator checked first. They were a problem on the early XR600 models, the cdi's are fairly bulletproof.

  • timothypg

Posted June 04, 2006 - 07:45 AM

#3

thought i had everything checked out, wrong. i did do a check on the stator and it looks like the lighting coil is bad, checked the blue/yellow wire to ground. total resistance. manual says coil cannot be replaced, new stator i guess.

  • cleonard

Posted June 04, 2006 - 08:55 AM

#4

There are 2 coils on the stator, the ignition coil and the lighting coil. The lighting coil has nothing to do with the ignition. The ignition coil is the one with the smaller wire. It's resistance is pretty high, greater than 100 ohms(200?) I think. The lighting coil is big wire so the resistance is only a couple of ohms. The ignition wire is the black with red stripe on my XR600. The other end of the ignition coil is grounded on the stator.

If you have an AC voltmeter, pull the spark plug, and connect it between the black/red wire and the frame. You should see some good voltage there when you kick it hard. Analog voltmeters will give an actual reading, digital ones will a reading, but it will not be accurate. If you get voltage, then try and reconnect the black/red wire and try it again. You should still see voltage when it's connected to the CDI. If it's zero, they your kill switch may be shorted out. Usually the stators gradually fail as the insulation between the wires deteriorates.

Stators show up on ebay from time to time. Any XR600 stator will work. XR350 and the 83-84 XR500 stators are all the same. You can always get an aftermarket one for about $130, and it will have 200 watt lighting coils. I'm sure the stocker is >$350 from Honda. Use the search

(xr60*,XR 60*) stator

on ebay.

I rewound my own stator when it crapped out. Not too hard and it's been working for 2 years. I also carry a small transformer that will run the ignition off of the lighting coil. That should get me back to the truck if my coil fails.

  • timothypg

Posted June 04, 2006 - 09:49 AM

#5

thanks for the info. C. i did connect between r/b wire and frame. just start moving the kickstart and it registers, kick hard and all kinds of juice set on 50 ac v. maybe the reason my lighting coil registered the way it did is the cheap meter i got, ohm setting is 1k only. did you say try plugging the r/b wire back into the cdi then kick and measure again? try to get the meter probe in there somehow. i did all the test's in the manual and it points to the cdi, but i certainly could be doing something wrong. thanks for the help everyone. :applause:

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  • XR6's_rule

Posted June 04, 2006 - 10:02 PM

#6

I'd do a resistance test on the exciter coil as well. Connect the red probe of your multimeter to the black/red stator wire and connect the black probe to a good earth on the engine. It should read around 100-200 ohms. I'd also test your pulse generator, which is located behind the right crankcase cover. The wiring connector to test this is under the tank (blue/yellow and green wires). Connect the probes between these two in the connector, you should get a reading of 400-550 ohms. There's a resistance test you can do on the coil as well. Connect the probes between the two connectors on the end of the coil (where the black/yellow and green wires plug in), you should get a reading of 0.6-0.9 ohms. Then leave one lead on on one of these and connect the other inside the end of the plug cap, you should get a reading of 7.0 to 10k ohms (you'll need to change the ohms range on your meter). As well as this just check for broken/loose wiring and try checking the spark without the killswitch connected, occasionally these little buggers can play up. I would cancel these things out before rushing out and just buying a new cdi unit, you may waste your money. Anyway good luck.

  • timothypg

Posted June 05, 2006 - 05:56 AM

#7

thanks for the info. my brother from down under. :applause: believe me i have been testing everything i can, i DO NOT want to pay 160.00 for a part i don't need. so far everything is pointing to the cdi, but i will test every darn thing i can. i will do the tests you suggested as well. well i better get to work so i can pay for whatever part i will need. thanks again. Tim

  • timothypg

Posted June 05, 2006 - 04:28 PM

#8

hey C. i got your pm. thanks. i think my stator is ok. when i tested from black/red wire and kicked, it has all kinds of power. coil is fine. i even took it to the shop today to double check. tried two different plugs. the one i'am useing is brand new iridium, maybe 10 hrs. looking more and more like cdi to me. on coil primary and secondary, good. alternator exciter coil 250 ohms, good. pulse generator 290 ohms, good. am i missing anything? thanks for the help. man did i want to go riding over the weekend. i don't think this has anything to do with my prob. but i rode fri. no prob. adjusted the valves sat. morn. then went to start and that is when i found no spark. i know how to do the valves, plenty of comp. decompression was deactivated. it popped once or twice and that was it. thanks again for any ideas. Tim. also kill switch tests fine. infinity, close it and no resistance.

  • timothypg

Posted June 05, 2006 - 05:49 PM

#9

think i found it. although the coil tested good you had to hunt around to get a good contact in the cap. well i cut about 1/2" of the wire and bam, spark. what a bitch. i will put a whole new wire and cap on tommorow. thanks for the help guy's. :applause: :D Tim

  • XR6's_rule

Posted June 05, 2006 - 11:40 PM

#10

Well done! Aren't you glad you didnt rush out and get a new CDI? I have actually come across this problem before, it doesnt take much for the wire to pull out of the cap.It had me scratching my head for a while!

  • timothypg

Posted June 10, 2006 - 06:01 AM

#11

I ended up makeing a new set up from stuff i got at the hardware store. works perfect. used awg 6 cu type mtw, wire. it is oil and gas resistant, has probably 3x the copper braid. put it all together then used that heat shrink wrap, 2 layers, to connect to the coil. dropped the resistance from a minimum of 8.5k per the specs down to 7k. more bang for the buck. should be a hotter spark? hopefully won't burn the piston. i'am useing a iridium plug. ngk dpr8eix-9. i think that was the colder one. does anyone see a down side to my little experiment? tim





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