My WR400F 1999 in OZ
Posted June 01, 2006 - 08:23 PM
[COLOR=Sienna]I THOUGHT I[/COLOR] would list the set up of my bike if anyone is looking for some tips to help make their older WR perform or get an idea of what they are like.
[COLOR=DarkOrange]SPECS[/COLOR] - 5 valve, Water Cooled, 4 stroke, 400cc, 12.5:1 Compression, 39mm Keihin, 12 litre tank, 115kg, Kayaba Sups., Brakes 245mm/220mm.
MY MODS INCLUDE (UFO headlight, One Industries Sticker Kit, Black rims, Barkbuster hand guards, Reikon Fat bars)
[COLOR=Navy]THINGS I HAVE DONE TO MY RIDE
SUSPENSION[/COLOR]-I have simply dialed the compression and rebound to suit my 85kg (187lb) 6'2" frame after a bit of tinkering on and off the trails. The original spring and oil settings pretty much suit my build and the faster I become the harder I dial the compression with the rebound about one or two clicks behind the compression setting. ( I'm about two-thirds of the way through the settings) I DO have to keep adjusting the rear spring (firmer) as it tends to sag after every 2-3 rides. About 1.5 turns on the collar sorts it out.
[COLOR=Indigo]BRAKES -[/COLOR] I bought a set of EBC pads that feel great through the levers and have bled the lines to keep them clean and refreshed. It has dramatically improved the stopping qualities of my pre-millennium mudslinger.
[COLOR=DarkSlateGray]TO AID[/COLOR] the handling I have tweaked the headset up a full turn to firm up the steering (A Motocross trick). I packed it full of grease and nipped it up (about 1 full turn to squeeze the bearings but still keep an easy turn feel through the bars) and it has dramatically improved handling over fast-rocky terrain, keeping the front wheel more or less on course. (A poor mans steering damper). I don't think it chews out your headset bearings as the steering only turns minimal from left to right and there is no real heat transferred here). Suspenders and stoppers are the crucial part to a well set up ride for me and with this sorted I can tackle the terrain head on.
[COLOR=DarkRed]THE ENGINE[/COLOR] was pretty well sorted from stock plus a YZ pipe with a little tuning of the carby (mixture and jetting). I have just returned the mixture to original Manual Specs (1.5 turns, down from 2.5) which helped lean out the power off the bottom and this immediately stopped fouling plugs along with popping and backfiring and a miss straight off bottom due to an overload of fuel. The engine is GREAT! Good solid power that anyone can ride - from learner to expert.
[COLOR=Green]I RIDE[/COLOR] alot of diverse terrain from technical single track to open fire trails so a good range of power from bottom to top is what I like. I don't head above 1000 metres altitude so my jetting is suited to most riding that I do. I get about 100-120km (70mile) to a tank of hard going through the bush, which makes for a fun day!
Posted June 01, 2006 - 08:34 PM
Posted June 01, 2006 - 09:37 PM