Dealer Screw Up
Posted May 22, 2006 - 04:59 PM
A couple of days later they called me, told me it was ready and I went down to pick it up. When I got there the mechanic that did the work went over the bike with me, I had a couple of other questions. We talked about the problem these bikes have with the drain bolt leaking and he mentioned the fact that he swapped out my oil drain plug at the bottom of the motor. He said the head on the old one was buggered up and he replaced it. He also went on to say that the head on the new bolt was bigger and that I should be careful not to over tighten it. I didn't think too much of this, I thanked him, took the bike home and everything seemed fine. After a couple of days I noticed the bike was still leaking oil from the motor, it appeared to be leaking from the bottom of the motor. I checked the torque on the filter cover as well as the oil lines going into the motor. I cleaned everything up and made a mental note to check it again the next day. The next day I checked it and it appeared that it was leaking from the drain bolt on the bottom of the motor. I tightened the drain bolt, cleaned it and observed it again the following day.
Still leaking, I ordered a new crush washer thinking this was the problem. I started the bike, warmed it up and drained the oil, when I went to replace the crush washer it would not fit. I noticed when I pulled the plug that the plug appeared much bigger than the original bolt. I then checked the size of the bolt and the thread pitch.... 14MM and 1.50. I looked in the manual and sure enough 12MM x 1.50 thread pitch. This guy obviously mis read the work order and drilled and tapped out my drain plug thinking it was stripped ....not the oil cover. The service technician at some point had to make him aware because they did fix the oil filter drain bolt. Now I'm thinking these guys need to fix this leak and I'm not so sure they can do without screwing it up even worse
I spoke to my brother (who's a mechanic) who advised me to take the bike down in person, don't call them because this would give them time to fabricate a story.
I can't tell what the problem is...why it's leaking. My bigger concern is can it be fixed with a helicoil or some other method????
Sorry for the long post
Posted May 22, 2006 - 10:04 PM
Drain your oil completely, wipe off the newly tapped drain hole and inspect the surface. If the mechanic was not real meticulous when tapping the hole, he may have left some burrs that stop the crush washer fom seating nice and flat.
Inspect the sealing surface by running your finger across the hole and see if you can detect a lip or protruding edge. If so, you may just need to gently break the leading edge of the first thread. You can file it down with a small jeweler's file and then kiss the surface with some fine grit sand paper or scotch-brite to smooth it out. If it's a substantial burr you may even be able to carefully cut the worst of it off with a sharp utility knife or other such tool -just don't get carried away as the aluminum is real soft. Bottom line is to make sure the surface is flat and smooth when your done.
Instead of using a copper crush washer I like to use metric self sealing washers that you can get from McMaster-Carr. They have bonded rubber on the ID and seal really well, plus they are reusable. A bag of 5 will cost you $5 or so (plus shipping) and last a lifetime. Check out www.mcmaster.com part no. 93786A225 on page 3068. (Just cut and paste the part no. in the "Find" box). They'll deliver to your doorstep in a day or two.
Good luck, hope this helps
Posted May 23, 2006 - 08:29 AM
Posted May 23, 2006 - 10:32 AM
Posted May 23, 2006 - 05:21 PM
Thanks for the imput and I'll let you know how it turns out.
Posted May 23, 2006 - 07:56 PM
Second, when installing time-serts, you must conter sink the tapped hole, thus increasing the sealing area of the crush washer. When we do time-sert jobs, I always step up to a larger OD on the sealing washer. I think the OEM washer is maybe ~2mm thick form ID to OD. It will leak with a time-sert, increase the thickness from ID to OD up to maybe 4-5MM. This will hopefully solve the leak.
Since he went with a 14MM , I know for a fact that a Banshee drain plug washer will do the job. Thats what I use on Raptor drain plug jobs.
Hope this helps.
Oh and BTW, its not a great idea to add inserts to the lower filter cover bolt hole in the side case (if thats what was stripped). There is an oil gally passing through the threads there and an insert could block oil flow to the filter. Just an FYI. I usually replace the side case to do it correctly.