Dealer Screw Up


5 replies to this topic
  • rockieman

Posted May 22, 2006 - 04:59 PM

#1

A couple of weeks ago I took my bike to the local dealer to have them fix a leak in my oil filter cover. After doing some research I decided I was going to have them install a time cert in lieu of a helicoil in the filter drain hole. When the service technician wrote the work order up he put "repair oil drain hole -time cert, refill oil - Yamalube 10/40". I pointed out the fact that it was the filter cover that they need to repair so he doctored the work order and inserted a "^" with the word "filter" over it.
A couple of days later they called me, told me it was ready and I went down to pick it up. When I got there the mechanic that did the work went over the bike with me, I had a couple of other questions. We talked about the problem these bikes have with the drain bolt leaking and he mentioned the fact that he swapped out my oil drain plug at the bottom of the motor. He said the head on the old one was buggered up and he replaced it. He also went on to say that the head on the new bolt was bigger and that I should be careful not to over tighten it. I didn't think too much of this, I thanked him, took the bike home and everything seemed fine. After a couple of days I noticed the bike was still leaking oil from the motor, it appeared to be leaking from the bottom of the motor. I checked the torque on the filter cover as well as the oil lines going into the motor. I cleaned everything up and made a mental note to check it again the next day. The next day I checked it and it appeared that it was leaking from the drain bolt on the bottom of the motor. I tightened the drain bolt, cleaned it and observed it again the following day.
Still leaking, I ordered a new crush washer thinking this was the problem. I started the bike, warmed it up and drained the oil, when I went to replace the crush washer it would not fit. I noticed when I pulled the plug that the plug appeared much bigger than the original bolt. I then checked the size of the bolt and the thread pitch.... 14MM and 1.50. I looked in the manual and sure enough 12MM x 1.50 thread pitch. This guy obviously mis read the work order and drilled and tapped out my drain plug thinking it was stripped ....not the oil cover. The service technician at some point had to make him aware because they did fix the oil filter drain bolt. Now I'm thinking these guys need to fix this leak and I'm not so sure they can do without screwing it up even worse :ride:
I spoke to my brother (who's a mechanic) who advised me to take the bike down in person, don't call them because this would give them time to fabricate a story.
I can't tell what the problem is...why it's leaking. My bigger concern is can it be fixed with a helicoil or some other method????
Sorry for the long post
thanks

  • mjslim

Posted May 22, 2006 - 10:04 PM

#2

Relax Rockieman - all may not be lost - here's a thought.

Drain your oil completely, wipe off the newly tapped drain hole and inspect the surface. If the mechanic was not real meticulous when tapping the hole, he may have left some burrs that stop the crush washer fom seating nice and flat.
Inspect the sealing surface by running your finger across the hole and see if you can detect a lip or protruding edge. If so, you may just need to gently break the leading edge of the first thread. You can file it down with a small jeweler's file and then kiss the surface with some fine grit sand paper or scotch-brite to smooth it out. If it's a substantial burr you may even be able to carefully cut the worst of it off with a sharp utility knife or other such tool -just don't get carried away as the aluminum is real soft. Bottom line is to make sure the surface is flat and smooth when your done.
Instead of using a copper crush washer I like to use metric self sealing washers that you can get from McMaster-Carr. They have bonded rubber on the ID and seal really well, plus they are reusable. A bag of 5 will cost you $5 or so (plus shipping) and last a lifetime. Check out www.mcmaster.com part no. 93786A225 on page 3068. (Just cut and paste the part no. in the "Find" box). They'll deliver to your doorstep in a day or two.
Good luck, hope this helps :ride:

  • Frank_z28

Posted May 23, 2006 - 08:29 AM

#3

seem that not only my local yam dealer is a :ride: . The other day i wanted buy a tire but he answer me " we are more a road motorcycle dealer " and he didn't wanted order one for me. Good luck with youre leak problem.

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  • GCannon

Posted May 23, 2006 - 10:32 AM

#4

You need to becarful here the drain bolt threads in the engine cases on the bottom of the motor have a slot cut in the case through the drain bolt thread area to allow engine oil to drain from the engine. if they use a timesert which protrudes into the case then the engine will not completely drain. A helicoil will drain slowly through the threads. If you striped the drain bolt threads then you have to live with it and it may not be the end of the world. since they did it you might bring this up when you are asking them how we are going to fix the sealing surface of the drain bolt washer. Try and be nice at first and firmly work out a reasonable solution that everyone can live with ( they probablly are not going to give you new engine case) let us know what happens.

  • rockieman

Posted May 23, 2006 - 05:21 PM

#5

The threads are not stripped out and after further examination the area around the tap job is a littlle rough. I am going to take it to the dealer and see if they can spend a little time on it to fix it. I did order some of the self sealing washers recommended by mjslim.
Thanks for the imput and I'll let you know how it turns out.

  • CISCO

Posted May 23, 2006 - 07:56 PM

#6

First off sorry your local shop is dumb enough to add an insert to a perfectly good threaded hole. :banana:

Second, when installing time-serts, you must conter sink the tapped hole, thus increasing the sealing area of the crush washer. When we do time-sert jobs, I always step up to a larger OD on the sealing washer. I think the OEM washer is maybe ~2mm thick form ID to OD. It will leak with a time-sert, increase the thickness from ID to OD up to maybe 4-5MM. This will hopefully solve the leak.

Since he went with a 14MM :ride: , I know for a fact that a Banshee drain plug washer will do the job. Thats what I use on Raptor drain plug jobs.

Hope this helps.

Oh and BTW, its not a great idea to add inserts to the lower filter cover bolt hole in the side case (if thats what was stripped). There is an oil gally passing through the threads there and an insert could block oil flow to the filter. Just an FYI. I usually replace the side case to do it correctly.




 
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