Changing fork oil seals


10 replies to this topic
  • WaGuy78

Posted May 19, 2006 - 04:22 PM

#1

I need to change my fork oil seals (ones leaking) but was wondering if there are any "tricks" that I should know. Also, I don't have a fork seal driver, I was wondering if there was a way around that. I remember using PVC on my old KDX when I did those.

ANY help/advice would be greatly appreciated! :ride:

Thanks all! :banana:

  • luckyfly

Posted May 27, 2006 - 08:12 PM

#2

I recently did the fork seals on my 05 450 and used a half peice of 50mm PVC pipe, worked well.

  • creeky

Posted May 28, 2006 - 03:47 AM

#3

I did the PVC deal on my '00 WR400 seals, worked fine. Don't try to pound them in with one whack, keep going around the seal tapping it in a little at a time, be sure to put a little grease on the seal.

  • rich1167

Posted May 28, 2006 - 08:33 AM

#4

I used a piece of 2" Sch 40 PVC. I cut it in half and cut about 1/4 to 1/8 of an inch out of the diameter. I made it about 4" long. I use 2 hose clamps and attach it to the lower fork leg. Then use the lower leg as a pounder. I also put a chamfer on the inside of the edge that I use as pounder so as not to damage the seal. It works well but will need to be adjusted after about 3 pounds due to the fact that it slides down the leg.

  • rogo

Posted May 28, 2006 - 05:39 PM

#5

The other month i had a serious leak in one of my forks. did a search in this forum and found sliding a peice of film or thin plastic under the seal to clean out the muck fixed the problem

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  • minion

Posted May 28, 2006 - 08:12 PM

#6

The other month i had a serious leak in one of my forks. did a search in this forum and found sliding a peice of film or thin plastic under the seal to clean out the muck fixed the problem


That may of fixed the leak, but now you have an uneven amount of fluid in your forks.

I'm not trying to be hostile, but it is a good idea to rebuild your forks when they do leak, because you never know how much fluid you've lost, and having an unbalanced amount can really affect the bike's performance - especially if you use a lot of your suspension ( harescrambles, motocross, etc).

I had one fork that dumped a large amount of its fluid in the back of my pickup one day on the way to a ride. When I tore apart the fork, I discovered two problems:

1) The slide-metal piece had a defective teflon coating, which had sheered off, and got lodged under a seal, which caused it to leak. Without doing a fork rebuild, I would have neven noticed that, and could have caused more damaged to the fork with metal on metal rubbing.

2) The fork oil in the other fork was no where near what it should have been stock from the factory.

So, I had a defective piece, and bad quality control with my fork oil. It was most defineltey worth my time to do a rebuild, and now that I've done it, it wouldn't be difficult for me to do again in the future. And my forks feel way better than they did when I bought the bike new.

:applause:

M.

  • creeky

Posted May 29, 2006 - 04:34 AM

#7

The other month i had a serious leak in one of my forks. did a search in this forum and found sliding a peice of film or thin plastic under the seal to clean out the muck fixed the problem


I did the film thing a few weeks ago on my WR400, leak stopped, came back in spades on a trail ride, lost practically all the oil, rust-proofed the whole front end of the bike. I'll know better next time.

  • rich1167

Posted May 29, 2006 - 07:40 AM

#8

I agree with the last 2 opinions. I tried the film thing and it worked briefly. Then the leak came back. Also with the film thing how much crap are you shoving up into your forks? It may be an ok temporary trail fix. I figure if I am going to take the fork apart to set the fluid level I might as well go ahead and rebuild per the manual.

  • Frank_z28

Posted June 02, 2006 - 05:24 PM

#9

my wry 03 fork just begin to leak one side. I ordered a new seal. When you change the seal do you order the "slide metal" 5ET-23125-L0-00?
I only ordered the seal, my dealer have it in stock so i have to wait 6 day to get the new one.
I have my owner manual is changing the seal hard and long?

  • rich1167

Posted June 02, 2006 - 05:39 PM

#10

Its easy, Just follow the instructions in the manual. If you have a helper it's much easier. You should change the slide metal, piston metal, oil seal and dust seal all at the same time.

  • creeky

Posted June 02, 2006 - 06:59 PM

#11

Inspect the fork metal (bushings). If the coating is intact with no scratches or any other indications or wear or damage, reuse them and just replace the seal and dust cap.




 
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