WR Neutral Light - another guide
Posted May 16, 2006 - 10:51 PM
There are a few ways to do this, here is ONE way to do it for a 06 model:
Remove tank to gain access to the Neutral wires than run to the gear switch. You can trace these wires from the switch near the gear lever up to the connector under the tank. (PIC 1)
There are two wires, one is Sky Blue (Sb) and the other is Blue/White (L/W). The wires are also clearly shown in the Electrical section page 6-1 of the manual.
The L/W wire is used for USA models only. In each case (USA, non-USA) the other wire is in place but and does not lead to earth. Run a voltmeter across the connector to confirm which is used for your bike; (Ignition switch ON, bike in neutral). This voltage is semi-important as it determines the best option/rating for your Neutral LED (or you can trial and error it!). Mine measured 5V DC for a Vortex X10, I did not test the OEM but imagine it would be close to the same. This voltage “spikes” during start, 12+ Volts for the Vortex; (probably strait battery voltage). You can test by holding a Volt meter in serial (in line) as you crank the bike – you don’t need to start it; no fuel required. After testing a few LEDs, I chose a “super bright” 3 Volt Green LED. I suggest you get a few and see what works best. An in line resistor reduced the current but inhibited the neutral “sensing”, so I ended up just with the 3V LED. I did all my testing across the connector and before I changed the wiring, but you can do the wiring first and test later.
Cut or break the appropriate wire. Join each side of the break with one side of a double wire and run it up to where you want your light. The aim is to use this CDI voltage across these wires to run the LED when the Neutral circuit is complete. Wire up the LED (soldering is the best): the LED Positive voltage (power ON) side usually has a longer pin. The other side is joined with the wire that runs down to the gear neutral switch, thus completing the circuit through the LED. Test before you tape or shrink wrap. The LED should light up when the Neutral conditions are met with Ignition ON.
A suitable mount (PIC 2) is easily made.
The fitted one shown is cut from metalized fiberglass circuit board; aluminum would be good but is harder to work with. This one is mounted beneath the ignition key. You may be able to do the same with OEM push button switch. The Green neutral light works a treat (PIC 3,4).
It is wired beside two turn signal indicator flashing LEDs. (PIC 5)
For info, turn signal LEDs are parallel mounted with the 12V DC indicator lights. So far no trouble with any of the LEDs. Parts cost around $5US total.
Posted May 17, 2006 - 02:45 AM
I PMed you.
Posted May 17, 2006 - 02:07 PM
What key is that you are using? I'm looking for a keyed switch that will turn ignition on and have switched DC.