Adjusting the fuel screw
Posted May 15, 2006 - 12:51 PM
Posted May 17, 2006 - 09:34 AM
Posted May 18, 2006 - 03:11 AM
Thanks for the reply and the info. I'd say thanks for the link as well but because of it I just spent the last hour (when I should have been working) educating myself on the finer aspects of jetting and finding even more tweaks I can make to my bike. Pretty soon I won't even be able to call it a WR anymore, it's going to be some sort of mutated freak, albiet a fast mutated freak. When I get the time I will work on the jetting a bit more and also get into the ACV to see if bypassing it will help me get my jetting spot on.
The WR is quite sensitive to jetting and can be a bit of a pain. I have changed mine three times with just a 15C temp change...Once dialed in though the bike is great. The ACV (disabled) helps IMO set up the fuel screw and off idle jetting ... no "artifical" interference. For info: I have mine permanently activated in the normal position so the pilot circuit is not richened on decel. A little extra popping but much cleaner on-off throttle response and easier to feel effect of the fuel screw IMO.
A search for ACV should reveal a lot when you are ready...
If you own a thumper with an FCR you have to get intimate with jetting...until EFI comes along...
Posted May 18, 2006 - 08:08 AM
Posted May 18, 2006 - 10:23 AM
I'll need to begin using that one...
Re the needle, I've always been able to get it out by slipping the carb from the cylinder inlet boot and rotate the top a little towards the left side. Remove the top cover and I use a pair tweezers that came with a electronic tool set to lift the needle out. The tweezers are a 90 deg right angle type that works very well.
Posted May 21, 2006 - 05:45 AM
Good idea, I think you'll find it (168/clip4) works well:
Yeah, I have jetted several times .. There is no obvious pops (except the occasional one on decel) or bogs (except the off idle bog), I just don't have a great feel for jetting so I am trying to get all the help I can. .. leave the same old 170-48-68-3rd clip on the red needle settings which seem to work reasonbly well for most conditions. I may try going down to a 168 and raising the needle one clip for the summer
For Info (as recommended initially by the JD kit)
I used 170-48-70-35 Leak and JD Blue 3 until the temp went above 20c (68F)
Then: 168-48-68-40 Leak FS 1.5 and JD Red 5 up to 25c
Then: 168-48-68-40 Leak FS 1.25 and JD Red 4 at 80F + [because the bike Stuttered at around 1/8 to 1/4 throttle] - Fixed... BUT, all bikes are different in some small way...
Posted May 21, 2006 - 05:59 AM
Re the needle, I've always been able to get it out by slipping the carb from the cylinder inlet boot and rotate the top a little towards the left side.
Yep, needle (rotate carb left) and MJ (rotate carb right) should take around 20-25 mins.
IMO, It is way easier if you disconnect the Hot Start plunger after you slide the carb back off the boot. then reconnect it just before you replace the carb on the boots.
See ARins guide if you need a refresher!