Shawn Mc's Fork Seal Replacement Procedure


89 replies to this topic
  • Shawn_Mc

Posted 07 May 2011 - 03:52 PM

#81

PGHCaptain said:

Sounds good thanks.  Another question.  What is the TEN doing at the bottom of both my forks.  Is that the stock rebound setting?  If so my bike is an 02 and is supposed to be 11 for stock, 03 is 10.  Does this mean my forks are from an 03 or just in between models kind of?


Ten is the mid setting. When the fork is right, your clickers really should be somewhere between 8 and 12 for the rebound.

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  • PGHCaptain

Posted 02 June 2011 - 06:02 PM

#82

Shawn_Mc said:

Ten is the mid setting. When the fork is right, your clickers really should be somewhere between 8 and 12 for the rebound.

I guess adjusting the clickers needs to be done over time with patience.

Been doing a lot of riding lately.  Forks started feeling like poop again (no rebound pogo sticks).  Came time to do the cartridge seals as the dampers are leaking into the fork legs.  I ordered them from Synergy Seals.  Hope they are good..

I got both cartridges apart and had no problems with the peening.  Question with the seal though, should I lube it with some fork oil before pressing it into its seat?  I know to do that with O-rings but unsure of this little seal.

Thanks in advance.

  • Shawn_Mc

Posted 02 June 2011 - 06:50 PM

#83

PGHCaptain said:

I guess adjusting the clickers needs to be done over time with patience.

Been doing a lot of riding lately.  Forks started feeling like poop again (no rebound pogo sticks).  Came time to do the cartridge seals as the dampers are leaking into the fork legs.  I ordered them from Synergy Seals.  Hope they are good..

I got both cartridges apart and had no problems with the peening.  Question with the seal though, should I lube it with some fork oil before pressing it into its seat?  I know to do that with O-rings but unsure of this little seal.

Thanks in advance.

At a minimum. If you've got some seal grease that's better. PC makes some. A dab of white-lithium would be better than nothing in a pinch.

  • jacob381

Posted 23 August 2011 - 03:07 PM

#84

im gonna be redoing my fork seals and was wondering how much oil i should put in it is revalved for mx and feels stiff to me. just give me some tips on what to do that would be low cost.
weight:195lbs
height:6'3"
class: open c

  • MXandSXracer21

Posted 23 August 2011 - 03:44 PM

#85

This can kind of be a hard question to answer. Reason being, the suspension can be so soft, that it feels harsh, or it can be stiff and you want it to be softer. What was the recommended oil height that the person who revalved your suspension suggested?

If you are not sure, perhaps start at maybe 365cc or so (around the softer end of the spectrum), that way, if it is too small, you can add oil to the forks through the bleed screw. It's better to not have enough than too much, since it is hard to remove oil from the forks while on the bike. (Note: For an 08 CRF450R, the stock oil level is about 406.5 cc)

  • idsmokeu2

Posted 24 August 2011 - 08:07 AM

#86

You have to look at oil weight, spring rates, valving, fork tube height, and oil level, among the main factors.. If the bike is not sprung for you or not the correct valving for your riding you can sorta adjust the other factors to make it behave kinda like your wanting. There are so many factors you have to look at.

Could be riding too far down in the stroke making it feel harsh also. A good fork Co. can get it in the ball park where you want it. Most of the time you might just need to set the sag and ride. If you are picky you might play with the clickers..

Depends on what the current fork set up is and what riding you are doing for someone to say Xcc's need to go in there..

  • ThumperRookie

Posted 20 January 2012 - 06:29 AM

#87

I'm about to do this myself for the first time and I was wanting to know if the cap wrench tool is a must? Or can I get away without having one? I don't have the seal driver either but I read where you can use the old seal to do drive down the new seals and bushing? any thoughts?

  • MXandSXracer21

Posted 20 January 2012 - 08:57 AM

#88

If you have a big enough wrench for the fork cap then go ahead and use it. I have a very large adjustable wrench that I use.

As for the fork drivers, I also use the old fork seal trick to drive my seals in.

Some other notes:
- Use OEM bushings and seals. They are better than just about all of the seals out there. If you want to splurge for a little more, then go with SKF seals with OEM bushings.

- I would recommend using Maxima Racing Fork Oil (blue label) in both the inner and outer chamber. Do go ahead and change the oil in the inner chamber! Take your time bleeding the forks to get the air out.

- Use fork seal grease on the seals. I recommend slickoleum. You can order it for like 6 dollars shipped to your door.

- Make sure you clean all your components really well, especially if it has been a while since they have been serviced. You can use brake cleaner or Maxima's Suspension Clean. If you use brake cleaner, don't get it on any seals.

- Check your fork legs for any nicks. If you find some sand it down starting with a 600 grit paper and work your way up to 1200 or so.

- If you remove the inner damper rod from the damper itself (or inner chamber), be sure to wrap the threads at the bottom of the rod with teflon tape so you don't damage the seal at the bottom of the inner chamber.

Edited by MXandSXracer21, 20 January 2012 - 09:07 AM.


  • klxchrisE

Posted 23 January 2012 - 06:20 AM

#89

Boudroux, on 18 May 2006 - 10:53 AM, said:

What you really want to do is this.  Step one.  Call Shawn and tell him you are coming over to show him this trick new part your buddy made in his machine shop, hinting that you "think" Shawn is capable of reproducing this part.

Step Two.  Stop at 7-11 and buy a case of Coors Light, he loves that shit.

Step Three.  Tell him you forgot the trick little part at home and hand him a beer.  Now that you have him drinking, forward the idea that you just so happened to have your forks in the truck with new seals and that you are dying to try his idea of Synthetic ATF in the forks and since they were apart changing the seal would easy.

Presto, new seals and fluid.  Just be sure to hose his entire driveway off not just the part where the oil spilled that way you look good for doing a little extra.  I always throw his rose garden a little squirt as well for good measure.

:bonk:

I'm sure we're all guilty of this... :smirk:

  • Kirkes

Posted 16 September 2012 - 05:58 AM

#90

John_Curea, on 16 September 2006 - 03:16 AM, said:

Make sure to apply heat to the outer tube right over the oil seal and outer bushing. You can use a heat gun or propane torch, just get it hot enough where it's barely too hot to touch. And then "GENTLY" hammer the tubes apart, NEVER FORCE!!

This will let the outer tube expand a bit and the forks will seperate easily. The tolerances of the Showa componets are tighter than their KYB counterparts and require and extra measure of carefullness when disassembling. Failure to use heat will most likely cause the outer bushing to "climb" over the inner bushing and remove some of the teflon coating. Requiring bushing replacement.

Take Care, John
x249 :)




 
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