PGHCaptain said:

Ten is the mid setting. When the fork is right, your clickers really should be somewhere between 8 and 12 for the rebound.

Shawn_Mc said:

I guess adjusting the clickers needs to be done over time with patience.

Been doing a lot of riding lately. Forks started feeling like poop again (no rebound pogo sticks). Came time to do the cartridge seals as the dampers are leaking into the fork legs. I ordered them from Synergy Seals. Hope they are good..

I got both cartridges apart and had no problems with the peening. Question with the seal though, should I lube it with some fork oil before pressing it into its seat? I know to do that with O-rings but unsure of this little seal.

Thanks in advance.

PGHCaptain said:

At a minimum. If you've got some seal grease that's better. PC makes some. A dab of white-lithium would be better than nothing in a pinch.

im gonna be redoing my fork seals and was wondering how much oil i should put in it is revalved for mx and feels stiff to me. just give me some tips on what to do that would be low cost.
weight:195lbs
height:6'3"
class: open c

This can kind of be a hard question to answer. Reason being, the suspension can be so soft, that it feels harsh, or it can be stiff and you want it to be softer. What was the recommended oil height that the person who revalved your suspension suggested?

If you are not sure, perhaps start at maybe 365cc or so (around the softer end of the spectrum), that way, if it is too small, you can add oil to the forks through the bleed screw. It's better to not have enough than too much, since it is hard to remove oil from the forks while on the bike. (Note: For an 08 CRF450R, the stock oil level is about 406.5 cc)

You have to look at oil weight, spring rates, valving, fork tube height, and oil level, among the main factors.. If the bike is not sprung for you or not the correct valving for your riding you can sorta adjust the other factors to make it behave kinda like your wanting. There are so many factors you have to look at.

Could be riding too far down in the stroke making it feel harsh also. A good fork Co. can get it in the ball park where you want it. Most of the time you might just need to set the sag and ride. If you are picky you might play with the clickers..

Depends on what the current fork set up is and what riding you are doing for someone to say Xcc's need to go in there..

I'm about to do this myself for the first time and I was wanting to know if the cap wrench tool is a must? Or can I get away without having one? I don't have the seal driver either but I read where you can use the old seal to do drive down the new seals and bushing? any thoughts?

If you have a big enough wrench for the fork cap then go ahead and use it. I have a very large adjustable wrench that I use.

As for the fork drivers, I also use the old fork seal trick to drive my seals in.

Some other notes:
- Use OEM bushings and seals. They are better than just about all of the seals out there. If you want to splurge for a little more, then go with SKF seals with OEM bushings.

- I would recommend using Maxima Racing Fork Oil (blue label) in both the inner and outer chamber. Do go ahead and change the oil in the inner chamber! Take your time bleeding the forks to get the air out.

- Use fork seal grease on the seals. I recommend slickoleum. You can order it for like 6 dollars shipped to your door.

- Make sure you clean all your components really well, especially if it has been a while since they have been serviced. You can use brake cleaner or Maxima's Suspension Clean. If you use brake cleaner, don't get it on any seals.

- Check your fork legs for any nicks. If you find some sand it down starting with a 600 grit paper and work your way up to 1200 or so.

- If you remove the inner damper rod from the damper itself (or inner chamber), be sure to wrap the threads at the bottom of the rod with teflon tape so you don't damage the seal at the bottom of the inner chamber.

Boudroux, on 18 May 2006 - 10:53 AM, said:

I'm sure we're all guilty of this...