new to yz426


13 replies to this topic
  • random hero

Posted May 05, 2006 - 02:56 PM

#1

just picked up a 01' 426, have a few questions.. is the oil filler up on the neck of the frame, if not what is that? also seems to be a pain in the ass having this manual compresion release, is it worth doing to 450 cam swap? i'll be using the bike for supermoto.. also im having trouble getting it started, the guy i bought it from started it up when i picked it up and was reving it pretty hard after it's been sitting all winter, you think he fouled the plug.. i havent been able to get it started but havent realy fooled w/it much since its been raining non-stop.. :crazy:

  • yzfoxrider04

Posted May 05, 2006 - 03:23 PM

#2

It's no problem once you get used to the manual compression release I have it on my 01 250f I hated it the first few times out but after the fifth I got it down. but the f***ed up top end w/burnt valves didn't help. oh yeah if it sat all winter you should change the plug,clean carb,air filter. Yes the oil filler cap is on the neck in front of the tank also if you got the manual it helps a bunch.if you have anymore Q's Send me a message

  • Junior426

Posted May 05, 2006 - 06:49 PM

#3

I bought an '01 yz426f a short while ago as my first bike. Its an awesome bike and if you pay attention to what your doing it isnt that hard to start. Remember never to touch the throttle when its not running or after you just started it. Warn everyone you let look at it or even stand near it not to do so. And remember to bring it to the top of the compression stroke, then pull the compression release and push it a little further, then give it a big ole' kick all the way down. That has always worked for me in what little time I have owned my bike. Be safe and responsible and I hope you have as much fun as I do on my bike. Good Luck :crazy:

  • Zique

Posted May 05, 2006 - 08:29 PM

#4

I agree, if you just bought it, change the plug, filter, etc. Give her a good cleaning (you never know how well the previous owner took care of it).

Learn the starting procedure (if you don't know it, do a search here on TT, you'll find it within the first couple threads). That will be the second step to getting it started for you. I haven't personally done it myself, but from what I hear, the 450 cam swap is definitely worth it. I can start my bike just fine, but I am still considering doing the swap when I get ahold of some $$.

At the risk of sounding rude...if you open the cap you are talking about, you will see a dip stick. Usually a good sign of it being the oil. I would also suggest getting a manual, you really can't do much (properly) to your bike w/o it. I don't know of anyone who knows the torque specs and such right off the top of their head.

Good luck...it's a great bike!

  • grayracer513

Posted May 06, 2006 - 08:33 AM

#5

Here is a link to a manual you can download:

http://motoman393.th...426_manual.html

Explore that site a little, it will be very helpful.

The bike is a dry sump lube system, meaning the oil is carried in a reservoir or tank separate from the crankcase, in this case, the frame, and circulated into and through the engine, then returned to the tank. In changing oil, both the frame and the crankcase must be drained, and the frame refilled. See the manual for the details. Checking oil must be done only after the bike has been run within the last 5 minutes, as the oil will slowly migrate down from the tank to the crankcase as the bike sits.

The 450 cam swap is, by at least a 10:1 margin the single best mod you can make to that bike. The only people who don't agree are people who have never done it or spent any time riding a big thumper with auto decompression. I was brought up on big British singles, and I am as familiar with compression releases as anyone has ever been, and was originally skeptical enough about auto decomp that I wasn't sure I wanted a YZ450. Having now owned one for some time, I see no reason at all to want the manual setup ever again. Do the cam mod. :crazy:

  • Blue ARC

Posted May 06, 2006 - 09:03 AM

#6

I remember when I first bought my 426 off a good buddy of mine. I couldn't start it. Not because of the starting drill but because of how hard I had to kick. Buddy could come over and kick 1 time and it would fire right up. (how embarrasing). The starting drill was easy. It was second nature after a while. Some people hate it I didn't. I did the 450 cam swap just because I was bored. Very easy to do yourself. Now instead of 1 or 2 kicks it takes 3 to 4 to start when cold. I think it's my fault though as I kick it like a 2 stroke. When I bring it to TDC no problems to start on 2nd kick.

Like mentioned before if you you have any questions just ask

  • Blue ARC

Posted May 06, 2006 - 09:05 AM

#7

Oh ya when I first got the bike I used to kick a 3/4 stroke. It would never start. You have to kick a full stroke. Make the lever hit the peg. It makes a big difference.

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  • One Louder

Posted May 06, 2006 - 10:31 PM

#8

Oh ya when I first got the bike I used to kick a 3/4 stroke. It would never start. You have to kick a full stroke. Make the lever hit the peg. It makes a big difference.

I was having the same trouble when I got my 98 yz400. Got the proceedure down but it would fire. I realize I wasn't kicking it hard enough to build the proper momentom to turn it through 4 cycles. after releasing some pressure bring the starter allthe way up (very important) and then kick the crap out of it! Another thing that I find that makes the bike easier to start is try to find something taller to stand on with your left foot. this gives you better leverage to kick from. I use my stand or a rock/log if I'm on the trail. Hope this helps :crazy:

BTW carefull with the throttle if you give it too much while kicking the lever will kick back harder than you could believe. I sprained my ankle pretty bad. :ride:

  • random hero

Posted May 07, 2006 - 08:08 AM

#9

thanks for all the info, im going to work on it today.. im coming off a honda crf250, what a pain in the ass.. i'll let you know the progress tonight, and thanks for the link to the manual, i appreciate it

  • targetdrone

Posted May 07, 2006 - 09:37 AM

#10

I haven't done the cam mod and I don't think I'm going to. My XR600 has the HRC kit with the auto-compression release. The XR has a different ratio on the kick-start gearing to make it easier to kick, but it doesn't turn the motor as far. Most times it takes a few kicks to fire up. My XL600 and my XL500 would fire first kick with 'the drill'.
Perhaps with the higher kick start gear ratio the 426 would fare better, but I can do something else with the 110 bucks...like fill up my truck 2 1/2 times.:crazy:

  • FTT

Posted May 07, 2006 - 12:43 PM

#11

I also recently picked up an 02. I love the bike, but I had to learn the starting drill. It really helps at first if you step on something with your left foot. Once you get it down no worries.


For anybody who knows these things, I did my first oil change today. Maybe it was because I could see the filter, but there was a bunch of aluminum and debris in the filter. Does this mean that I am in for an expensive rebuild, or is it somewhat common? I have no idea how long it has been since the bikes last oil change, the oil was pretty black.

EDIT. I did a search and it seems fairly common. I need to pull the frame screen and see how it looks. Due to a stripped screw on my Baja Designs stator cover this is the longest oil change I have ever done.

  • random hero

Posted May 08, 2006 - 10:23 AM

#12

just got done flushing the coolant and changing the oil, in the filter there was quite a bit of metal shavings, is this normal? also how tight should the oil filter bolts be, the reason i ask is when i took them out they were tight, but almost seemed like they could be stripped out, when i put them back i think one could be stripped, if this is the case do i need a new case? also where is the filter/screen for the frame? last, i bought 5w40 oil, service manual recomends 10w40.. i run 5w40 castrol superbike in all of my roadrace bikes, never had a problem, just throwin it out there.. thanks

  • random hero

Posted May 08, 2006 - 02:27 PM

#13

well got all the fluids flushed, put the 5w40 castrol sbk oil in, new air filter and plug and the thing started 2nd kick, and HOLY SHIT these big bikes are fast.. i've raced a 1000cc superbike and this thing pulls harder than my r1, im really impressed, rode it about 5 minutes put it up and now waiting for my supermoto setup, thanks for all the help guys!

  • yamfan

Posted May 08, 2006 - 04:31 PM

#14

I have '01 426 with a Dr.D pipe and a K&N air filter, I installed a Dyno jet kit in it but it doesn't run that well on top. I used their needle in the 3rd clip position with their 180 main jet. Runs real well down low but boggs up in the high rpm area.





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