Understand the Power Band of the WR450


11 replies to this topic
  • Kmorris

Posted May 01, 2006 - 02:59 PM

#1

Greetings,

After tweaking my new WF450F with the performance modifications I learned here on the list I must say I’m impressed with the difference in how it runs. The header pipe isn’t glowing anymore. What I’m trying to get right is power delivery and shifting. I grew up riding and racing 2 strokes (CZ’s if you’re old enough) and grew (I guess like riding a bicycle) used to high revs and when to shift.

I’m having some trouble getting my shifting to feel right (I’ve been on street bikes now for years – except for one XT550 in college). It seems half the time I lugging the bike as I shift into 3rd unless I’m way up on the revs. In first and second the bike feels like a tractor but the shift to third at anything but high revs seems to create feeling of lugging the engine.

I’ve about 50 miles on the engine and have been breaking in the bike a little stronger than the repair manual calls for. Just some ‘blasts’ that seems like the correct way to break in a 4 stroke.

Is this normal? Or should I be way up the rev scale shifting into 3rd to stay in the power band.

:crazy:

Thanks!

Keith Morris
’05 WR450F …breathing easy…

  • Indy_WR450

Posted May 01, 2006 - 03:18 PM

#2

You can lug this motor down to stalling! I ride at the bottom of the power band for all level ground trails. I only use high rpms for hills and high speed.
You can run her in 3rd just above idle in the woods! Wont hurt your motor at all. :crazy:

  • odonnks

Posted May 01, 2006 - 03:21 PM

#3

For my area the stock gearing was too high, I droped the front drive sprocket one tooth to a 13 and it made a huge difference it the area. Keeping it reved in my NE riding areas is wayyyyy too fast.
Replacement driver gear around 15 bucks.

These things like to be lugged but if your lugginh it to the point where the rev's won't come up you lugging it too much.

  • Matty05

Posted May 01, 2006 - 04:33 PM

#4

I’ve about 50 miles on the engine and have been breaking in the bike a little stronger than the repair manual calls for. Just some ‘blasts’ that seems like the correct way to break in a 4 stroke.

This is highly debated topic.

My thoughts on the topic is flog the crap out of it, and change oil very frequently as well as a new filter every time.

The more you flog it, the more power you get, and the mor free the engine becomes.

  • Express

Posted May 01, 2006 - 07:26 PM

#5

Odonnks, how did the 1 tooth drop effect your top speed? I purchased a 13 tooth for the same reasons you stated but I will be riding to and from the trails onroad. The WR isnt meant to be a highway cruiser but it seems Ill be running the crap out of it if I ever have to maintain 55mph. Im now concerned that dropping the front sprocket will be a REAL killer for any type of road use.

  • ncmountainman

Posted May 02, 2006 - 06:23 AM

#6

You can lug this motor down to stalling! I ride at the bottom of the power band for all level ground trails. I only use high rpms for hills and high speed.
You can run her in 3rd just above idle in the woods! Wont hurt your motor at all. :crazy:

thats why we call ya the "blue caboose" :ride: lay the coal to it :ride:

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  • 06WR450FSM

Posted May 02, 2006 - 10:50 AM

#7

Odonnks, how did the 1 tooth drop effect your top speed? I purchased a 13 tooth for the same reasons you stated but I will be riding to and from the trails onroad. The WR isnt meant to be a highway cruiser but it seems Ill be running the crap out of it if I ever have to maintain 55mph. Im now concerned that dropping the front sprocket will be a REAL killer for any type of road use.


I do extensive road riding with a supermoto setup and find that the motor is happy cruising in the 5000 to 7000 rpm range.

For your dirt wheel with 13/50 gearing I calculate about 6300 rpm at 55 mph, no problem :crazy:

  • Kmorris

Posted May 02, 2006 - 11:24 AM

#8

Hey Indy,

Who makes your big bore kit. That sounds interesting!

Keith

  • Kmorris

Posted May 02, 2006 - 11:29 AM

#9

Thanks guys - I'm starting to get the picture.

Keith

  • TWILES

Posted May 02, 2006 - 05:08 PM

#10

I run mine 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/4 using all of them. The power REALLY comes on on top and climbs hard from 1/4 - 1/2, plains out a little and ripps past 3/4. You shift up when you can go faster and down when you can't. It seems like the best time to shift up on mine is half way between 1/2 and 3/4 if I'm just wanting to lug it. If I'm wide open I just wait for the power to start to drop off like I did with my 2-strokes. The hardest part for me is learning to use the throttle to control the bike instead of the clutch.

  • Indy_WR450

Posted May 02, 2006 - 06:34 PM

#11

Hey Indy,

Who makes your big bore kit. That sounds interesting!

Keith



Max Power is great to deal with! :crazy: :ride: :ride:

http://www.maxpower-...yz-wr488ice.htm

  • OneToGo

Posted May 03, 2006 - 06:13 AM

#12

488 sounds better than 490 and a lot nicer than 449.
I know what I would do if mine wore out!

Hey, why dont Yamaha or Honda make a decent, quality big bore thumper a la KTM, Husky, Husaberg etc etc, or is this why Honda has phased out the XRs??? They would sell truck loads!! :crazy:




 
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