More Rekluse probs/questions


15 replies to this topic
  • flatnacker

Posted April 23, 2006 - 06:28 PM

#1

Hey guys dam Im having a hard time with this (maybe Im just a mechanical dimwit!!)

PROBLEM 1) I have the bar mounted dual brake with rekluse clutch and perch adjuster. I'll be dammed if I can get it set up properly. It say in the manual when I rev it the slide in the perch adjuster should move so that I see the red part?? It doesnt move at all!! After adjusting the perch adjuster I have it so that it engages from just over idle and operates fine, however the manual over ride does jack shizenhousen, doesnt disengage the clutch :bonk: :thumbsup:

PROBLEM 2) I have done everything possible to try to bleed the bar mounted brake and just cant get it right. I have even used a big arse syringe to squeeze the brake fluid up from the bleeder, still cant get rid of the spongy feeling and wont lock the rear brake. Tried leaving the brake lever clamped overnight-this made the lever nice and firm but after going for a quick spin the sponginess came back and it took a fair amount of force to lock the rear wheel, however the foot mounted brake works fine :thumbsup:

Anyhelp massivley appreciated :confused:

  • jerryls

Posted April 23, 2006 - 08:42 PM

#2

#1: What year is your bike? Some of the newer WR's need a longer clutch cable w/ the Rekluse. Assuming that isn't the problem, it sounds like you have too much slack in your cable. You have two adjustments, the barrel and perch adjuster. Seems like you have the barrel part figured out. The "rev test" is terribly misleading in the instructions. You want to rev the engine (about half throttle), and when you pull in the perch lever the first half of the pull should completely collapse the barrel (the rubber sleeve will crunch together), and the second half of the pull should be pulling the engagement lever on your crankcase (disengaging your clutch). Takes a while to find the right combo.

#2: Make sure the lower master cylinder is completely full of fluid, and screw the top on. I removed the lid from the upper master and and put a ziploc around the entire assembly. Took a big syringe and injected fluid in the bleeder. Took a couple syringes full before no more bubbles were coming out of the upper master. Screwed the upper master to the bars and filled it with fluid. Use very small pulls on the brake lever, forcing fluid into the line, and little bubbles will come up in the upper master when you release the lever. Keep refilling with fluid until you've worked all the little bubbles out. Haven't had any issues with mine.

The hand brake rocks for downhills and right hand turns. Hope you get it straightened out. If you can't, call Patrick at Rekluse. Awesome guy.

Jerry

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted April 23, 2006 - 09:59 PM

#3

I have had no troubles at all locking up my rear with the hand brake. I have the hand brake only kit, and I used an automotive style bleeder to set it up. It works awesome, but does still have a spongy feel to it compared to my front brake. I was wondering if the length of the cable had something to do with that. Also, in case you didnt know, there is quite alot of adjustment in the brake lever with the bolt and nut adjustment system. Mabye try threading the bolt in closer to the master. I really love the hand brake it makes riding the woods so much easier. I just wish the components were a little better. The resivoir and perch seem a little 'weak' to me. But it works. I too have had a very hard time getting the perch adjuster to work right on both my YZ and my buddies WR. The external adjuster on the gear box is perfect, but we have fought like hell to get the perch adjuster dialed in. Mine is coming off. But you may want to try both springs, and adjusting your cable length, assuming you are running the specail Rekluse cable.

  • ncmountainman

Posted April 24, 2006 - 07:09 AM

#4

i've converted from perch to the motor mounted spring and its worlds better,i ran my first HS yesterday with the hand brake and i gotta say it was impressive to have so much control :thumbsup:

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted April 24, 2006 - 11:52 AM

#5

i've converted from perch to the motor mounted spring and its worlds better,i ran my first HS yesterday with the hand brake and i gotta say it was impressive to have so much control

NC, I couldnt agree more. :thumbsup: I put my perch adjuster back on to try and help my hillclimbing. Screw it, its not worth it. :confused: The motor mounted spring and hand brake is FAR superior in my opinion as well. :thumbsup:

  • viper77

Posted April 30, 2006 - 05:38 PM

#6

I just installed mine today on an '03 WR 450. I bought the perch adjuster, and had a real hard time getting it setup. I think like others have said the clutch cable is too short.

I REALLY wanted to ride, so I hooked it up the standard way (spring on the clutch actuator). I was a little disappointed at first, it seemed like it took forever to engage, and then weakly. I re-measured the plates and either they "set" a lot or I originally measured wrong. I ended up putting 2 more of the larger plates in. Tried it again, and WOW!

I can't believe how well it works, all the power you want right there AND no clutching!

:crazy:

  • viper77

Posted May 14, 2006 - 05:56 PM

#7

I just installed mine today on an '03 WR 450. I bought the perch adjuster, and had a real hard time getting it setup. I think like others have said the clutch cable is too short.

I REALLY wanted to ride, so I hooked it up the standard way (spring on the clutch actuator). I was a little disappointed at first, it seemed like it took forever to engage, and then weakly. I re-measured the plates and either they "set" a lot or I originally measured wrong. I ended up putting 2 more of the larger plates in. Tried it again, and WOW!

I can't believe how well it works, all the power you want right there AND no clutching!

:ride:

Just had my first real test. A week of rain, nothing but deep mud or seriously steep (wet) rock. I have to say this has been the best addition to my bike.
thumbs up! :banana:

  • Shuffler

Posted May 29, 2006 - 05:15 PM

#8

A little help here if you guys don't mind. I'm confused with the external adjuster setup on my Rekluse...the instructions and photos don't appear to be like my bike (02 WR426).

Can somebody attach a pic of their external adjuster setup? I chose to go this route after fiddling around with the perch adjuster and deciding it was more hassle than it's worth. I want to try the basic setup first...hopefully "set it and forget it".

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  • Shuffler

Posted May 29, 2006 - 05:37 PM

#9

here's a photo of how I have it now....Posted Image

  • StreetbikePimp

Posted May 30, 2006 - 11:15 AM

#10

The photo that you're seeing in the instructions is the set up on a WR450 motor. The clutch cable is routed around the right side of the motor instead of coming down the left side like it does on the YZ450 and the YZ/WR 426. It is kind of confusing. They should have shown a bigger of the YZ motor.

Your set up is fine, but I would try to rotate your bracket forward so the spring is stretching a little bit. You will have to offset your bracket so the notch in the bracket is not engaging that knob on the motor.

  • Shuffler

Posted June 04, 2006 - 10:51 AM

#11

ok, so I loosened & rotated my clutch cable bracket fwd, which puts some tension on the external adjuster spring, pulling the clutch actuator arm all the way forward, just as pulling on the clutch lever would do. Is this the right position for making the initial spring tension adjustment?

I have to admit the Rekluse instructions are a bit vague with the install/setup of the external adjuster. I assume once this is setup, I start the bike & let it warm up, drop it into 1st or 2nd, and........hope for the best?

If I start from 1st or 2nd gear, the idea is that the autoclutch will engage the rest of the plates via centrifugal force so I don't need to upshift? What about downshifting...would I still use my shift lever for that or is it automatic also?

This whole concept is new to me and I've never ridden an autoclutch-equipped bike before. Sorry if I sound like a complete tool on the subject.

  • Country1

Posted June 05, 2006 - 10:10 AM

#12

I too have some questions on the external adjuster. I've got a CRF250X (I know I'm on the wrong forum, but just searched "Rekluse"). Should you have any tension on the spring with the bike off or should you preload it a bit?

On a side note, anyone have trouble with missing hardware? I've been reading for a while now all the Rekluse posts on here (and CRFSOnly) and was very excited about getting the z-start for my bike. I made my order and waited patiently while reading the posts again and again studying up on the install. Friday it came! Saturday morning I couldn't wait to get to it. We had perfect ridding weather and I had all weekend to install, test and ride. Everything was going smooth, better than average, judging from all the posts I'd read. I was almost finished, I couldn't wait to try her out, when I noticed I didn't have the ten little M3 Torx screws to put on the top plate. Even though I knew I hadn't seen them in the hardware bag, I searched all over for then. Maybe they got loose in the box??? No. Maybe they fell out in the house where I opened the box?? NO. I looked and looked, knowing that they where never even there, but some how I just knew if I looked hard enough I could make them appear... Wrong. I was so mad. Man that sucked. I called Rekluse, no answer of course it was Saturday. I left a message. So now its Monday and my bike is sill laying on its side, like it was dead, on the garage floor. I called back this morning and after the 4th try I got a person who was very helpful and apologetic. He said he would overnight me a set of the screws and they should be here tomorrow morning. All and all I guess it's turning out ok, but i just couldn't believe my luck. I'd been waiting so long to get this thing and see if it was as great as everyone said... Oh well, I should be giving her a try Tuesday after work.

I just wanted to tell my story, since I've read so many others.

  • beasleys

Posted June 05, 2006 - 11:07 AM

#13

i've converted from perch to the motor mounted spring and its worlds better,i ran my first HS yesterday with the hand brake and i gotta say it was impressive to have so much control :applause:

I have been considering doing his myself on my 01 426. I love the rekluse but somtime I feel as though it could be doing a something wrong. I have the perch adjuster set up with a heavy spring. I ride 95% woods and HS type courses. What spring are you using on the motor mounted unit? The only time that I worry about not having the perch adjuster/override is when I am waiting for a buddy or just stopped on the trail catching my breath on the trail for a minute or 2 and i can kind of feel the clutch dragging like it wants to walk the bike foward. I can not seem to get this to go away for an extended period of time. I can tweek it and it will go away but will come back after some ride time. And yes I have checked my clearances. :D

  • beasleys

Posted June 05, 2006 - 11:15 AM

#14

"If I start from 1st or 2nd gear, the idea is that the autoclutch will engage the rest of the plates via centrifugal force so I don't need to upshift? What about downshifting...would I still use my shift lever for that or is it automatic also?" a quote from above


This is not the way it works!!!! :D
You must still shift like normal you just will not have to use the clutch to accomplish it. When you get on the throttle you are right that it engages to the rest of the clutch plates with centrifugal force but thia has nothing to do with what gear you are in. That is your transmission's job. All the clutch does is link the engine and the transmission togethervia fingered plates and a basket that they fit into.
Try if the situation allows while shifting with a rekluse to let of the throttle to disengage the clutch the could possibly prevent some wear on your transmission shift forks and the actual gears themselves. :applause:

  • Shuffler

Posted June 05, 2006 - 12:45 PM

#15

got it....(I think?)....

more spring tension = slower engagement at higher RPM
less spring tension = quicker engagement at lower RPM

still use the shift lever as before, except with no clutch lever action, instead just chop the throttle to shift up/down (?)

I guess I just need to ride the damn thing and finger it out myself

  • ncmountainman

Posted June 07, 2006 - 08:22 AM

#16

I have been considering doing his myself on my 01 426. I love the rekluse but somtime I feel as though it could be doing a something wrong. I have the perch adjuster set up with a heavy spring. I ride 95% woods and HS type courses. What spring are you using on the motor mounted unit? The only time that I worry about not having the perch adjuster/override is when I am waiting for a buddy or just stopped on the trail catching my breath on the trail for a minute or 2 and i can kind of feel the clutch dragging like it wants to walk the bike foward. I can not seem to get this to go away for an extended period of time. I can tweek it and it will go away but will come back after some ride time. And yes I have checked my clearances. :prof:

i run the heavy spring on the motor,when trailriding i had the same problem(i keep it set so close to idle it wants to creep a little,and i'm always waiting on someone :applause: ) so i altered my technique a little;instead of stopping and waiting i just slow to a crawl get a sip of water from the camelback until they catch up then take off(it actually helps them to ride a little faster,kinda like the bunny for a greyhound :D ) or if you have to stop say at a intersection just shut the bike off,find neutral and sit there:thumbsup:




 
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