Wiring woes, cont'd


13 replies to this topic
  • slepe67

Posted April 19, 2006 - 01:57 PM

#1

Here we go....I've posted before regarding this. I bought an 2000 XR600R with turn signals, brake lites & switches, etc. The seller said he had "some minor problems with the turn signals", and that they short out/blow the fuse when turned on. I now know why. Looking it over, I decided it needed a "cosmetic" solution to dress it up, and to see what has been done to the bike in the past.
I got into the wiring, and jthe "installer" totally dropped the ball. My 8 year old could have done a better wiring job. You should have seen how bad this crap was...
Here's the question, I want to take it back to "original" specs and start over. (E.g. without turn signals, and all that bs). I plan to get an aftermarket Dual Sport Kit. Does anyone think this is a good idea? I do have schematics, and plan to use them strictly. Good thing I used to wire weapons systems on fighters.... :thumbsup: Thanks in advance JL

  • slepe67

Posted April 20, 2006 - 03:06 PM

#2

I took the wiring diagram and took it as close to stock as possible. The rainbow of different wiring was overwhelming. Bought a new Acerbis LED tail/brake lit fender, and counting the stock front headlight, there are NO other lights. I gave it a once over, checking all connections a few times, then, fired it up. It ran, which is good. The lites don't work. Which is bad. Here are a few ???s.
1. The WIRING DIAGRAM shows 2 wires for the headlite. Green and Blue.
--Green goes to the Engine kill/CDI/Ground/Regulator/Coil/Tail lite
--Blue goes to the Regulator/Tail lite
I have 3 wires. Green is attached to the outside of the bulb housing...Blue looks normal, and is attached inside the bulb housing to the bulb contacts. I ALSO have a WHITE wire, which is attached to the second bulb contact in the housing. &%$#@!? Should I get a book for another bike?
I checked the continuity of the green and black wires, which go to the engine kill, etc, the new multimeter beeped and said it was good.

2. What feeds power (the bike is AC only now I assume) for the lights on this bike? Alternator? CDI?

3. Where and how should I start troubleshooting? i.e bike running, or check for continuity between components.
Sorry to be a pain, I couldnt find much under SEARCH. WIll continue to search however. Later JL

  • don87xr600

Posted April 20, 2006 - 05:12 PM

#3

Check the output of the stator. The Ignition and lights run on different circuits on this bike

  • slepe67

Posted April 20, 2006 - 05:26 PM

#4

Oh, I forgot to mention, the headlights and tail lights DID work prior to my genious decision to dig in. Upon inspection AFTER cleaning the wiring up, and troubleshooting the no-light-problem, I looked at the bulb and one of the filiments was blown, and a second was either on its way, or had already gone. Thanks for your advice. JL

  • Max Power

Posted April 20, 2006 - 06:47 PM

#5

Hmmmmm........ Where is WR 4fiddy when we need him?

  • slepe67

Posted April 21, 2006 - 04:02 PM

#6

Went to the Honda shop today, took the bulb. The guru there said that the bulb could quite possibly work with the blown elements. It has 3 elements in it. He figured they were for bright/dim. We also surmised that it would have worked before, even IF the stator was FUBAR, because it (the headlite) ran off the battery. Now, like I was told before, I need to check the stator. Will keep ya posted. Please advise if you know any different. Gas is expected to go to $4/gal within the next 3 to 6 months. I need to get this pig running! JL

  • gnarly sprockets

Posted April 21, 2006 - 04:06 PM

#7

Buy a book for cripes sake. If gas does reach $4 (I doubt it will), you'll pay for the book with the first fill up!

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • slepe67

Posted April 21, 2006 - 07:14 PM

#8

I do have a book. CLYMER HONDA XL/XR 500-650 1979-2003

It's pretty vague. I shot the 3 wires coming from the alternator stator. Nothing. So, I read that if I don't have continuity, the stator is bad. Sound right? I checked the Black Red (goes to CDI), Green (goes to Reg/Tail/GND/Headlight), and Yellow (goes to Reg/Tail/Head). I guess I gotta call Baja Designs, and figure out how bright of a light I want then order a stator. Let me know if this doesn't sound right. Thanks again. Sorry for all the BS, but I'm one of those guys who doesnt do this too often, so I gotta double check first before I REALLY jack it up. JL

  • gnarly sprockets

Posted April 22, 2006 - 06:04 AM

#9

Stators are pretty damn reliable. I've been riding 45 years and the only stock stators I've seen go bad are ones that are overloaded and not fused. But, yeah, you should be getting some continuity through the stator somewhere. What setting is your ohm meter set on? Try testing the continuity of a part you know is good,like the coil primary winding. Be sure you are testing the right stator winding. If there's 2 windings, you shouldn't get continuity between them.

  • slepe67

Posted April 22, 2006 - 07:20 AM

#10

I've got a Craftsman Dig Multimeter. I set it to the continuity setting. I checked the bike's ground, etc, and they were beeping. Oh, while figuring out how to dismantle the bike for possible stator replacement, I noticed a newer looking lime-green gasket around the cover for the stator. Looked a bit TOO new, even though the bike IS 6 yrs old. My '02 CRF450R which I bought new, doesn't look THAT nice, maybe cuz all the mud it has laid in on its side:) The only thing I think I can do now is to set the meter to check for AC power, and fire it up. The dude at the Honda shop said that it should read 20-40 VAC at idle, and around 60 under a load. He stated this is all estimation, and he wasn't 100% sure. But, he has been workng there for about 15 years...will fire it up and see how much juice I have. The only thing keeping me from selling this bike is that I've already got it registered (both on and off base), titled, insured, oh, and about 20 hours of labor so far...at least I'm learning a lot by bugging you guys. Gnarly, I've read quite a few of your posts, and I cut and pasted them to a word product, for any further troubleshooting/info. You rule! thanks again!

  • don87xr600

Posted April 22, 2006 - 07:42 AM

#11

Stators are pretty damn reliable. I've been riding 45 years and the only stock stators I've seen go bad are ones that are overloaded and not fused. But, yeah, you should be getting some continuity through the stator somewhere. What setting is your ohm meter set on? Try testing the continuity of a part you know is good,like the coil primary winding. Be sure you are testing the right stator winding. If there's 2 windings, you shouldn't get continuity between them.

Stators are the weak link on XR's and often go bad.

  • gnarly sprockets

Posted April 22, 2006 - 11:29 AM

#12

OK. I've had 6 of them. I'm still waiting......

  • don87xr600

Posted April 24, 2006 - 06:41 AM

#13

You should keep one more than a year.

  • slepe67

Posted April 24, 2006 - 05:31 PM

#14

Well, I have lights now. I was gonna get a new stator, and all the other BS I figured I "might as well get" (you know how that goes). I called up Ricky Stator today, and told him that I needed a stator. He asked what it was for, etc, and then asked how I knew my stator was bad. I explained and he replied that stators usually dont go bad for the lighting portion, but the ignition goes first mostly. He walked me thru troubleshooting, and we discovered that all I had wrong was a green wire that was going to my lights, rather than ground. Somehow I overlooked it (I'm an idiot), I connected it, fired it up, and BLING, LIGHTS!!!!!!!!! THANK YOU RICKY STATOR! That is service, he could have let me order a stator for $130 and to figure it out for myself, but, he hooked a brother up. THAT is awesome. I'll be doing business with them in the future without a doubt!!! Thanks everyone for your help, now about them controls..........





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