Shawn_Mc said:
Smaller? I think you brain farted there...You want it about .125 larger at a minimum.
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From Eric Gorr's site:
"Honing the Cylinder Bore
Many people have emailed me with questions regarding honing cylinder bores. If you want to buy a hone to deglaze bores or polish off small scratches, then a ball-hone is the best choice. Ball hones are manufactured by Brush Research in Los Angeles, under the brand name Flex-Hone. These hones are available under different labels and they are most easily available from auto parts stores.
Buy a size that is 10% smaller than the actual bore size. These hones are available in several different materials and grits but the profile that bests suits both steel and plated cylinders is aluminum oxide 240 grit. A ball hone cannot remove material from the cylinder bore, especially on the hard nickel plated bores. However a ball hone can polish down the peaks of the original hone scratches and increase the bearing ratio. In other words the piston will be touching a greater percentage of the bore. Sometimes that makes the piston wear quicker but if you have to ball hone the bore to remove scratches, it's a compromise. The one type of hone that you should never use on a two-stroke cylinder is a spring-loaded finger hone. The sharp edges of the stone will snag the port edges and most likely damage the hone and the cylinder. "
Now, I've never used one that much smaller than the actual bore, but on all our 54mm bore 125's, I've always used a 2" hone, which is about 1/8th in smaller than the actual bore. I think the one I used on the 450 is a 95mm. You're not trying to remove any metal here or change the dimensions of the cylinder at all so you don't really need much of any kind of cylinder wall pressure. THe hones are on a long flexible shaft, which when spun in a drill will actually swing in an arc greater than their actual circumference.