Right footpeg


36 replies to this topic
  • willnevergrowup

Posted April 12, 2006 - 10:24 AM

#1

Hello,
Quick question-and sorry in advance for something I know has been covered here somewhere.

I am currently selling my "L" and buying a "R", because I want to do some Hare Scrambles,etc... I hear everyone talking about the right foot peg coming off and make sure to do a fix on this. What is the fix. Take it off and Locktite???? Where would I find this? Also it looks like I might have a line on a slightly used 2001 "R" anything else I should be concerned about on this year. Also does $2800 sound to high or is that good?(100%stock)

Thanks in advance for any advice!
Elmer

  • PigRider

Posted April 12, 2006 - 12:35 PM

#2

http://www.animalhou...s.net/index.htm

This is fix that many xr650r users have done. I just replaced the stock footpeg bolts with new stock Honda bolts, hoping it will hold. This problem DOES happen, I saw it last year with a friend while riding near Kalkaska.

  • PigRider

Posted April 12, 2006 - 12:38 PM

#3

I also have a 2001, great bike, no problems, you'll love it. Make sure your bike is uncorked, don't even ride without doing that. The procedure is desribed in the Yahoo xr650r group

  • snaggleXR650

Posted April 12, 2006 - 01:13 PM

#4

I have a 2000 model with the original footpeg/bolts. I've never had a problem with it. As PigRider said though, it does happen, something to look out for.

Also be aware of;
The clutch bushing on 2000-2001 models.
Loosening footpeg bolt.

None of the *issues* are expensive to fix, but can be expensive if they aren't fixed.

Check out http://www.xr650r.us/
and Yahoo XR650R group

Good luck.

  • jim1234

Posted April 12, 2006 - 02:31 PM

#5

I second animalhouse designs. Once fixed no worries

  • Supplicate

Posted April 12, 2006 - 02:54 PM

#6

I second animalhouse designs. Once fixed no worries

:thumbsup:

+1 here.

  • Bigmutha

Posted April 12, 2006 - 05:19 PM

#7

I just had my peg done at Animal House Designs. It looks great and was easy to install. Best $75.00 I've spent.

  • x thread

Posted April 12, 2006 - 07:21 PM

#8

I just had my peg done at Animal House Designs. It looks great and was easy to install. Best $75.00 I've spent.

did the footpeg fix myself .very easy to do .piece of flatstock ,bend it to fit ,acess to welder ,drillout foot peg hloes and bang youre riding again without that worry of youre peg snapping off at the wrong time !!!!!!! do the homework youreself ,cheap fix .

  • slomotobug

Posted April 12, 2006 - 07:32 PM

#9

Same here, did the fix myself after it broke on me, drilled and tapped both holes to 7/16" NFT and put stainless grade 8 bolts in, the front one i drilled all the way through and put a nut on the back side, that was 4 months afetr I bought the bike new, never had a problem since, do the clutch bushing(only $12) and the countershaft seal ($6), also buy a new kickstart retainer bolt, add some blue locktite and clean the threads in the shaft(that bolt like to come loose), and everything else is all standard maintinance. The price sounds bad to me, I'm looking to get mroe for mine out here, going in the trader next week for $3600, should go quick though as most in the trader are over $3800.

  • BAJAHUSKYS

Posted April 13, 2006 - 06:22 AM

#10

If your pig comes with the 4 year warranty (since it is transferable from owner to owner), drilling the frame voids the warranty of the frame should anything ever go wrong with it during that 4 year period. Not all foot pegs break (maybe not 4% of them), but wait until it does and you are miles and miles from your truck. Riding back with your foot dangling or riding the break pedal will show you the wisdom. :thumbsup: A 49 mile trip thru the mountains and highways home with a fractured left wrist from falling after the peg broke cured me. :thumbsup:

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Thumpmeister

Posted April 13, 2006 - 02:49 PM

#11

did the footpeg fix myself .very easy to do .piece of flatstock ,bend it to fit ,acess to welder ,drillout foot peg hloes and bang youre riding again without that worry of youre peg snapping off at the wrong time !!!!!!! do the homework youreself ,cheap fix .


Did the same thing...

After going through some 4 sets of bolts, I got REAL tired of breaking the damn thing off, so I saw the fix, and did it myself.

  • Kritter

Posted April 13, 2006 - 05:00 PM

#12

The fix for those of you that want to do it yourself...

Posted Image

The link for those of you who want somebody else to do it...
http://www.animalhou...et/products.htm

  • Potts228

Posted April 13, 2006 - 06:08 PM

#13

Hello,
Quick question-and sorry in advance for something I know has been covered here somewhere.

I am currently selling my "L" and buying a "R", because I want to do some Hare Scrambles,etc... I hear everyone talking about the right foot peg coming off and make sure to do a fix on this. What is the fix. Take it off and Locktite???? Where would I find this? Also it looks like I might have a line on a slightly used 2001 "R" anything else I should be concerned about on this year. Also does $2800 sound to high or is that good?(100%stock)

Thanks in advance for any advice!
Elmer



Elmer, you are going to get a few ideas here...some say drill the front hole completely through, others to spend $75.00 on a bracket that is welded onto your peg mount and also requires you to drill through the forward bolt hole. I say DON'T DO IT!

There is a really simple way to cure this and I am surprised at all of the voodoo about this. The problem is the fact that you have the aluminum frame flexing from the weight put on the foot peg (poor design) and the aluminum flexes and allows the bolts to back out. The bolts I have seen that break loosened up first and then broke.

The best solution I have seen (and use myself) is to TAP the forward hole completely through, (DON'T DRILL THROUGH) install a longer allen bolt (grade 8) that will enable you to use a nylock nut on the exposed thread now on the inside of the frame. You now can tighten the forward mounting bolt and then have the security of the nylock nut "locking" the bolt in place on the backside. Use locktight on the rear bolt and go play Johnny Cambell. It will cost you the price of a tap and the longer bolt and nylock nut.

Good luck!



Oh...yes, you should always check every bolt

  • willnevergrowup

Posted April 13, 2006 - 06:50 PM

#14

Thanks for all of your ideas. How common is this happening? Or are most of you fixing it before it does? I can definitely see why you would want too.

Why hasn't Honda done anything about it?

Thanks again and have a Happy Easter!

Hopefully I will have a new or should I say different BRP next Monday!

Elmer out!

  • Max Power

Posted April 13, 2006 - 06:54 PM

#15

Thanks for all of your ideas. How common is this happening? Or are most of you fixing it before it does? I can definitely see why you would want too.

Why hasn't Honda done anything about it?

Thanks again and have a Happy Easter!

Hopefully I will have a new or should I say different BRP next Monday!

Elmer out!


Have not done it. I don't worry about it. :thumbsup:

Posted Image

  • Kritter

Posted April 13, 2006 - 08:04 PM

#16

Use locktight on the rear bolt and go play Johnny Cambell.


I wouldnt go play JC or henge as thats not their fix...

  • HawkGT

Posted April 13, 2006 - 08:41 PM

#17

I haven't done anything either, other than check the bolts occasionally for tightness--they've never been loose.

At the minimum, check for tightness and be sure that washer is there: Honda Motorcycle Technical Newsletter

  • slomotobug

Posted April 14, 2006 - 06:53 AM

#18

The best solution I have seen (and use myself) is to TAP the forward hole completely through, (DON'T DRILL THROUGH) install a longer allen bolt (grade 8) that will enable you to use a nylock nut on the exposed thread now on the inside of the frame. You now can tighten the forward mounting bolt and then have the security of the nylock nut "locking" the bolt in place on the backside. Use locktight on the rear bolt



This is exactly what I said earlier, when I said drilled front hole through, I meant drilled larger as to accept the larger 7/16 tap for larger/stronger bolt, I would not reccomend just drilling the threads out and running just the nut on the backside.

  • 4Takt

Posted April 14, 2006 - 07:15 AM

#19

I wouldnt go play JC or henge as thats not their fix...


Kritter, what problems do you see with Potts solution?

4Takt

  • Potts228

Posted April 14, 2006 - 07:52 AM

#20

This is exactly what I said earlier, when I said drilled front hole through, I meant drilled larger as to accept the larger 7/16 tap for larger/stronger bolt, I would not reccomend just drilling the threads out and running just the nut on the backside.


Understand and misread your post...I know some guys thet have drilled the threads out (neighbor). I just used a tap, the same thread size and pitch as stock (maybe 8X1mm but not 100% sure now) to cause as little damage to the material as possible on the frame.





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