Posted January 06, 2001 - 08:13 PM
Posted January 07, 2001 - 04:25 AM
Posted January 07, 2001 - 08:14 AM
Posted January 07, 2001 - 09:03 PM
Posted January 07, 2001 - 11:40 PM
Posted January 08, 2001 - 09:23 PM
Posted January 09, 2001 - 01:29 AM
How much have you ridden during those two clearance checks? I did my first check/setting after about 6000 km, exhaust valves were close to the minimum clearance. I set all to the max clearance so I woudn't have to worry about them in a while. Max clearance gives some noise, but I have a very loud pipe and I use ear plugs, so I don't care. I believe that now it's about time to check them again.
I unintentionally did some serious damage to my last street bike, FZR1000, when opened the engine for maybe an inconsequential reason, therefore I don't tamper with WR except periodic maintenance now that I've got it running fine after pipe changing and cooling of the weather.
Posted January 09, 2001 - 03:48 AM
[This message has been edited by Boit (edited 01-09-2001).]
Posted January 09, 2001 - 04:39 AM
Originally posted by Boit:
...I'm wondering if there is some obstruction in the oil return line from the head causing the oil level to buildup in the cylinder head and being vented out.
Is there any particular return line from the head? I thought that oil returns through the cam chain hole.
CRC: I assume that you don't have too much oil in the engine... Excessive oil comes out throug breather hose also. I check the oil level few minutes after a ride.
Posted January 09, 2001 - 08:30 PM
I did the first check around 500 miles and the next one around 1200 miles. The oil will be at the top mark when I add it and after around an hour of riding it will be close to the bottom mark. I have a Works Connection skid plate on my bike and it will cover from the vent hose to the bottom frame supports by the peg. I don't know if the oil is foamy or not because that area will be covered with sand and dirt from riding.
As far as the oil goes it is probably 60/40 frame to case. The noise is coming from the top part of the top end. It doesn't sound like the timing is off or that the timing chain has any slack in it. I can't help but think it has to do with the valves. I know their will be some top end noise from these thumpers but it seems it is excessive. I would rather safe than sorry. I don't want to put money into the motor espically after the 4th gear wide open parting of myself and the bike I had last Saturday.
P.S. If you ever break your rear brake pedal the replacement cost is $120.00.
Posted January 10, 2001 - 01:01 AM
Originally posted by GRC:
The oil will be at the top mark when I add it and after around an hour of riding it will be close to the bottom mark.
How soon after a ride do you check the level? Wait for about 5 ... 10 minutes and check the level then. I've noticed that right after a ride the level may seem low. I just checked mine 20 minutes after a ride and the level was to the top.
I all that oil comes out from the hose, you should be able to smell the oil. Your bike doesn't smoke, does it?
Large valve clearances causes ticking noise. When I previously set the exhaust valve clearances from minimum to maximum I could clearly hear the noise. I think having some noise due max clearance is better than no clearance and no noise at all.
Posted January 10, 2001 - 07:21 PM
Posted January 10, 2001 - 07:23 PM
Sorry about this double post....not sure how or why I did that. THE FAQ section is wrong....it won't let me delete my own post. Unless, I'm doing it wrong.
[This message has been edited by Boit (edited 01-10-2001).]
Posted January 10, 2001 - 08:27 PM
Posted January 10, 2001 - 08:49 PM
Posted January 11, 2001 - 12:39 AM
ScottF: Good observation. As I was researching this, it pointed more and more to the pump doing the actual return to the frame reservoir. Obviously, the pump couldn't possibly push the oil thru the cams and then allow the oil to cascade thru the cam chain cavity only to be pushed again from the bottom of the cam chain sprocket(on the crankshaft) sump back up that long line to the frame reservoir. Yes, the pump could easily pump oil all the way thru the cam oiling passages, but once the oil is allowed to free-flow, the pressure is lost. To get the oil back up to the frame tank, it has to either have a secondary stage pump as Scott F mentions, or, the oil is always encased in passages or lines that make the pump always provide locomotion or they will cavitate and not pump. What I'm saying is that an oil pump needs a certain amount of resistance for it to work properly. I work professionally with many different pump designs. There is also another vent tube(?) next to the larger vent tube on the cylinder head. This smaller tube goes to the top of the frame oil tank reservoir. I can't find any mention of this tube in the manual ....wonder what the hell its for? I like this thread since I've never run into this problem before and now, hopefuly, I will learn quite a bit more about the oiling design of this engine. It made me think.
Oh, by the way, yes, the oil level should be checked by NOT threading the dipstick back in...it should be just stuck in and rested against the first threads...kinda work it back and forth until it just starts to thread in but not catch. What I do is turn the dipstick backwards until it drops into that certain niche...like it is lined up to start tightening. Know what I mean? Of course, the engine has to be run for several minutes to get an accurate reading.
[This message has been edited by Boit (edited 01-11-2001).]
Posted January 11, 2001 - 09:01 AM
Relax. Breathe deeply.
There are two pumps, both on the same shaft, driven by clutch gear via an idler gear. The outer is an impeller type and the other is similar to an automotive type, almost like a roots style air pump (what is the correct terminology for this type of pump?). Smaller breather hose on the head vents the oil res so oil will gravity flow to pump and/or so inner pump won’t encounter backpressure in reservoir.
Oil goes from res to impeller (or outer) pump to filter. Here it branches out for the first time, part goes through a passage in filter cover and then case to the (hollow) crank (which fits in a seal in the case cover) to oil the rod bearings before draining to cases. The other part goes to that chrome pipe or manifold thing on right side of motor. This branches it again, part goes down to tranny into a transverse mounted copper tube with pinholes that feed gears on countershaft. This copper tube then dumps what’s left into the hollow main (clutch) shaft on the left side of the motor by the clutch linkage, this oils the gears on the main shaft and then the clutch before draining to cases. The upper branch of the chrome delivery pipe goes up to the head and through integral passages which oil both cams. The oil then lubes the buckets and drains into the cases.
From the cases it is pumped by “inner” pump which picks up oil via a pickup screen and forces oil through a passage in the cases to the return line on left side of motor next to the gear pos. indicator. Voila. All is well as long as the inner pump can keep up with impeller pump. I’m guessing it pumps more volume at the same rpm (they will be spinning at same speed) to prevent oil starvation OR the cases filling up with so much oil that it gets blown out breather or by rings.
So I guess in the wet sump race motors they fill the cases with as much oil as won’t interfere w/ crank rotation and route the return pump to the impeller pump somehow OR they eliminate the second pump and somehow route the pickup to the impeller pump.
[This message has been edited by Hick (edited 01-11-2001).]
Posted January 11, 2001 - 09:47 AM
Posted January 11, 2001 - 04:26 PM
Hick: Got any theories about why
GRC's bike loses so much oil? His is the only post describing this problem and I'm very curious as to the cause.