How much oil/ what grade? 650L


12 replies to this topic
  • ZJ_77

Posted April 10, 2006 - 01:40 PM

#1

Just bought a bike (XR650L) and before I do much riding I'm going to change the oil and replace the oil filter. It has over 5000 miles on it and I'm unsure of the previous owners maintenance upkeep. Question 1) what grade of oil does this bike use? 10W40? 2) How much oil will I need to buy? I would guess 2 qts should cover it correct? 3) Bike seems to burn just a little bit of oil and after every ride my clothes smell like exhaust/oil. It has a HMF slip on with disc on the end. The darn thing shoots the exhaust right toward my leg which I'm sure is why I smell like oil/gas after riding. It's got a good seal at the clamp for the slip-on. Does anyone have this same problem? I am also on a new tank of gas thinking maybe the gas was tarnished and that's why the exhaust smell was so strong. New gas didn't help much. Any input is appreciated. Thanks!

  • wr450fyamaha

Posted April 10, 2006 - 03:08 PM

#2

maunal calls for like 2.09 quarts so you will need to buy 3. I run 10W40 but if its warm all the time where u are, 10w30 would do just fine. Synthetic would be best, but it will cost ya. You will probably find that it will take more like 2.5 to fill her up and you will use up the rest when she burns it. These engines can run for ever while burning oil. As for the pipe, I have no clue.

  • Dual_Dog

Posted April 10, 2006 - 04:28 PM

#3

I run 15W-50 full synthetic, non "EC" oil in my '98 XRL, '00 EX & '04 LTZ and they all run fine in the warmer temps here in So Cal.

A little over 2 qts. total for the L, just a bit more if you change the filter which I do every other oil change. Oil changes are done around 2.5K to 3K mile intervals, maybe sooner if I've been on the dirt more than the pavement.

These dry sump RFVC motors need to have the oil added in 2 separate steps. Put in a little over 1 qt., start the motor & let the motor idle for about 2 - 3 minutes. Then pour the rest in checking the level after you put in about 2 qts. total. Repeat start & idle, check the level & add more as needed to get close to the upper mark on the dipstick. When checking the oil level, the dipstick is NOT screwed in at all. Just rest the bottom of the threads on the filler neck. Avoid overfilling because it's a pain to get the excess oil out. :thumbsup:

  • goblin127

Posted April 11, 2006 - 05:18 AM

#4

Best to stick with motorcycle oil(there is a diffrence) Synthetic or regular motorcycle oil is fine. My XRL shifts better on synthetic than it does on reg. If you have to use automotive oil make sure you don't use the one that says energy conserving on the little round label.

  • cleonard

Posted April 11, 2006 - 08:00 AM

#5

Motorcycle oil is kind of a religious question, some people like synthetic $9/quart motorcycle oil, some regular dino oil. The bottom line is that if you change it often enough, you should be ok no matter what you use.

I use the heavy duty diesel oils like Shell Rotella, Chevron Delo, or Mobil Devlac. They stand up much better to the transmission much better than any "car" oil. They are relatively inexpensive ($8/gal) so I change the oil every 500 to 1000 max. Less if I'm riding my bike hard. I change the filter every other time. I think changing often is better than expensive oil that you leave in there for a long time.

You can run regular 10W-40 car oil, but it does not last very long. Change it after every 500 miles max. Just be sure that it doesn't say "energy conserving" anywhere on the bottle.

Unless you are out riding when it's 20F outside, don't use an oil lighter than 40 weight (10W-40 or 15W-40) in that air cooled bike.

  • sorenlaf

Posted April 11, 2006 - 08:24 AM

#6

Best to stick with motorcycle oil(there is a diffrence) Synthetic or regular motorcycle oil is fine.


And what would that difference be?

With the exception of the Energy Conserving oil with friciton modifiers, which may cause wet clutch problems, I'm unaware of any objective tests that show motorcycle oil to be superior to car oil in motorcycle applications.

As far as I can tell, it just costs more. I never use motorcycle specific oil in any of my bikes, and none of them seem to suffer.

In fact, the only "hard" information I have (a rather informal study published in MCN 10-15 (?) years ago) indicates that car performs just as well OR BETTER (in the case of mobil 1) when used in motorcycles.

If you have some information that I don't have, please let me know, but please, no oil company propaganda that says "buy our very expensive oil because we say it's better" w/o anything to back it up.


--Soren

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • husky123

Posted April 11, 2006 - 08:48 AM

#7

Here we go again....
:thumbsup:

  • HappyCurmudgeon

Posted April 11, 2006 - 08:49 AM

#8

Here we go again....
:thumbsup:


ayup. who is bringing the popcorn this time around?

  • cleonard

Posted April 11, 2006 - 09:11 AM

#9

And what would that difference be?

With the exception of the Energy Conserving oil with friciton modifiers, which may cause wet clutch problems, I'm unaware of any objective tests that show motorcycle oil to be superior to car oil in motorcycle applications.

As far as I can tell, it just costs more. I never use motorcycle specific oil in any of my bikes, and none of them seem to suffer.

In fact, the only "hard" information I have (a rather informal study published in MCN 10-15 (?) years ago) indicates that car performs just as well OR BETTER (in the case of mobil 1) when used in motorcycles.

If you have some information that I don't have, please let me know, but please, no oil company propaganda that says "buy our very expensive oil because we say it's better" w/o anything to back it up.


--Soren


First let me say that I'm firmly in the "car" oil camp. Like I said before, I use the heavy duty diesel oil. I've also had no issues with high quality car oils like the old red cap Mobil 1 15W-50, and Castrol GTX 20W-50. However, many years ago, while unemployed, I used a lesser quality 10W-40. I don't remember the brand. I'm sure I ran it too long as well (1000 miles?). When I changed that oil, it came out like water. :thumbsup: It was really thin, maybe 10 weight.

I'm sure even $1/quart 10W-40 cheapo oil is OK as long as it gets changed before it breaks down too much.

Some people want to do 3000 mile oil change intervals. Anyone doing that should be using a "motorcycle" oil, preferably a full synthetic. They need all the protection that they can get.

The diesel oils are recommended by the oil companies that make them for motorcycles. Shell says use Rotella in bikes, Chevron says use Delo.

  • goblin127

Posted April 11, 2006 - 09:36 AM

#10

And what would that difference be?

With the exception of the Energy Conserving oil with friciton modifiers, which may cause wet clutch problems, I'm unaware of any objective tests that show motorcycle oil to be superior to car oil in motorcycle applications.

As far as I can tell, it just costs more. I never use motorcycle specific oil in any of my bikes, and none of them seem to suffer.

In fact, the only "hard" information I have (a rather informal study published in MCN 10-15 (?) years ago) indicates that car performs just as well OR BETTER (in the case of mobil 1) when used in motorcycles.

If you have some information that I don't have, please let me know, but please, no oil company propaganda that says "buy our very expensive oil because we say it's better" w/o anything to back it up.


--Soren

I'm not going to look it up but there is a study and basicaly there is an addetive that they use in all motorcycle specific oil's I think it was higher phosphate or somethin. This has been to death here on TT and other forums do a search you will find it.

  • Mudshark

Posted April 11, 2006 - 10:24 AM

#11

Motorcycle oils experiencs higher Shearing compared to car oils. Shearing is
the breaking of the the oils molecules by the transmission "cutting" the oil.
Cars do not run the Tranny and engine in the same oil so they contain no
additives to prevent Shear.
Heavy duty deisel oils (Rotella etc) do, as do MC oils.
Shear causes the oil to "thin" loose viscosity more rapidly than normal.
So, if you use car oil, just change it out more often.
Synthetic oils resist Shearing very well, pump through your system easier
and has a better "cling" factor (does not run off surfaces as easy as Dino oil.)
thats why so many folks like it.

Go here and read this .... then decide:

http://motorcycleinf....com/Oils1.html :thumbsup:

  • Phuzzy McPhuzzface

Posted April 11, 2006 - 10:56 AM

#12

For bikes, the less VII (Viscosity index improvers, a.k.a. polymers) that are added, the better.

Polymers are coiled up when cold (flows well as the base weight) and expand out when hot (prevents thinning at higher temps). These polymers can get minced by things like tranny gears. This is why a regular car oil with a lot if VII's added breaks down rapidly, usually in a few hundred miles. So a 10w-40 ends up being a 10w-20, or worse.

Typically, synths contain less VII's. HD oils such as Rotella, Delo, Delvac also have less VII's, plus they don't contain the EC compnents, which _allegedly_ can cause wet clutch slippage.

For my water-cooled YZF, I use Mobil MX4T. For the dirtbikes, I use Castrol GTX 20w-50, or Rotella/Delo 15w-40.

Bottom line factor: Change it!


Edit: Don' read forum armchair advice like my post. Go to the fact sites, make an informed decision based on your conditions/use/equipment. :thumbsup:

  • Motosprtman

Posted April 12, 2006 - 05:35 AM

#13

30 plus years of using Castrol GTX 20-50W never one problem.





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