Another Happy Rekluse Owner

38 replies to this topic
  • clark4131

Posted April 08, 2006 - 09:25 AM


So I finally got off my a$$ and installed the Z-start and perch adjuster...had to take a sick day just to find the time. My first impression is that this thing is pretty slick. I tried as hard as I could, but I could not get the bike to stall. I'm running it with the light spring and 5 tungsten balls and it engages smoothly at about 2100 RPMs. I put new friction plates in during the install and I haven't remeasured the gap yet, but the Rekluse tech I spoke with said I probably won't need to worry about adjusting it for a while, but an initial break-in check is still warranted. I think I may have to spring for the dual-action brake with clutch override.

Another interesting factoid is that I'm using full-synthetic Amsoil in it with no ill effects as yet. The tech said that he runs Amsoil in his 2-stroke with no problems and thought I should be just fine...however, time will tell for sure. BTW, Rekluse's customer service is not to be believed. The guys were more than happy to stay on the phone with me when I had some questions during the install and they helped me dial in my adjustments perfectly :thumbsup: ...SC

  • ncmountainman

Posted April 08, 2006 - 02:38 PM


i just put the back brake lever up top and ordered the little lever that bolts to the master cyl. for the clutch override. the brake is great,but its gonna take some getting used to(still reaching for the brake with my foot. the feel of the hand lever is far superior and i'm not locking up the back everytime i brake (like i used to) you can still lock up the back if you want. the clutch override setup to go with the brake just didn't work for me. you basically have to take your hand off the bar to use it. i was gonna send it back but then i realized with a little cut here and a little grind there i could replace the crap plastic cylinder cap (that warped when tightened and leaked) with a nice billet unit :thumbsup: then after doing it i realized how much my billet cap cost ($80) :bonk: oh well i might have the only billet cap on a rekluse brake (uniqueness is priceless :confused:) i ended up going to the engine mounted spring,and to tell ya the truth it works better,smoother engagement. al,ya really need to make a billet cap for that thing :thumbsup:

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted April 08, 2006 - 09:53 PM


Oringinally posted by NCMountainman.
that little spring down on the motor just doesn't look like it could handle the mud i ride in. i use the override alot,sometimes its hard to spin when you want because the clutch offers such good traction control,also for finding neutral with the bike running and dead start HS its a must have. i've never had my perch adjuster come undone (maybe a little more elbow grease when tightening?) and the perch adjuster allows on the fly adjusting, after couple hrs in the tight technical stuff where it tends to build alot of heat,i've had to adjust the tension on the cable and then after it cools it'll be tight again;and adjust it back. more of a fine tuning thing,i also feel more in touch with the lever

Hey NC, remember that post. :bonk: :bonk: :bonk: :bonk: :cry: :bonk: :cry: :bonk: :bonk: :cry: AHHH, I'm just bustin you balls big guy. I am glad to hear you like your setup. Will you let me know how you like the little override deal. Can I order that as an addition to the handbrake setup I already have. I cant find it on the Rekluse website (sux). And Damnit, you beat me to the billet cap on that resivior. :eek: :thumbsup: :eek: :confused: I love my handbrake setup. Just today, my buddy (TT member "Big Davey") was having trouble with his perch adjuster. I still havnet had to dick with my engine mounted external adjuster. I love it. :thumbsup: Please let me know all the particulars when you get your override. Thanks, BnB.

  • ncmountainman

Posted April 09, 2006 - 03:11 AM


i got it the same time i got the brake,i posted that before i even recieved it. and upon arrival i noticed it just wasn't going to work(at least not the way i wanted) it no longer offered use while riding ,it required you to reach way over and about remove your hand from the bar to operate it;rekluse did say they had worked on a better lever but after moving the spring down under and realizing that most of the adjustment woes were from the cable,i realized its for the better to live without the clutch lever :thumbsup: as for the billet cap,i made it from that perch lever(its aluminum) it bolts on and replaces the plastic cap. so i cut the crap off for the lever and sanded it clean,magic marked it black and voila....billet cap :thumbsup:

  • flatnacker

Posted April 09, 2006 - 04:59 PM


Hey guys, I startred to install mine on the weekend and have a few questions. When checking the gap it was to big so I replaced a stock pressure plate with a Rekluse one which brought back pretty much to the .94 tollerance. My question is what end of the tollerence scale works best? Should I replace another pressure plate to reduce the gap even more, or is ok to leave it at the .94 gap? I am also running the 5 carbide balls and not sure what spring to use yet, some people say the heavy one, some say the light one-I just dont want it to stall on hill climbs!!

Also one more thing-when checking the install gap I some how scrapped the edge of the clutch fibre on the plate off-is this something to be worried about? And how do you check the gap then without doing some sort of damage to the clutch plate fibres?

  • clark4131

Posted April 09, 2006 - 05:21 PM


According to the tech that I spoke with during my install, you want to have the gap on the tight end of the tolerances to begin with. He suggested using new friction plates to achieve this, which actually had me around .69mm (.027") before break-in. He said with the new plates, after a 20-minute test ride with dead stop starts in 1st, 2nd and 3rd, it should put me right where I need to be when I ride it for real the first time. I'm going to re-check the gap tomorrow morning and hopefully take it for a spin in the hills if all is good. As far as the friction plate damage, why not just replace it? Better safe than sorry...SC

  • ncmountainman

Posted April 09, 2006 - 05:25 PM


i don't think a little piece of fibre chunked off is going to matter(as long as you got the piece out) .94? is that metric? its supposed to be .030"-,042" or something like that. with the 5 balls i'd use the heavy spring. on a light adjustment :thumbsup:

  • flatnacker

Posted April 09, 2006 - 05:32 PM


Thanks guys, yep .94 is metric, the manual says it should be between .03" (.76 mm) and .037" (.94mm). Instead of buying new clutch plates I could just replace another pressure plate with a Rekluse one I suppose. Did you guys have to replace more than one pressure plate?

  • Indy_WR450

Posted April 09, 2006 - 05:45 PM


I RUN MINE AS TIGHT AS .028". :thumbsup:

  • ncmountainman

Posted April 09, 2006 - 05:48 PM


i like to keep mine at the lower tolerances,in a new install i go a little below what is accepted by rekluse and just baby it into break in. ex; i just put a whole new assmbly in my 05 yz (plates,disks,basket,etc..everything new) and purposely set it tight (.028") knowing it was gonna go big,i checked it after an hour and it was .030",after a practice ride and a hare scrambles race it was .034" we practiced again today and i will check it again. i will replace a plate when it reaches .038"-.040" ( this works best from experience) i've been running this clutch for almost 3 yrs now,and love it :thumbsup: it takes a little bit of time to understand the way it works and wears,but once you do its as simple as a stock one. i also think that the new anodized pressure plates take alot longer to break in than the older ones, and should last alot longer :thumbsup:

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  • ncmountainman

Posted April 09, 2006 - 05:51 PM


I RUN MINE AS TIGHT AS .028". :thumbsup:

thats why you stall so much dan,i find the optimum gap to be .033"-.036"

  • flatnacker

Posted April 09, 2006 - 05:54 PM


Cool, so Im guessing I will have to swap another pressure plate over which I will do tonight and bring it back to .03". As far as riding with it though would it feel any different having a gap of .028 as compared to .037"???

  • ncmountainman

Posted April 09, 2006 - 06:02 PM


yes, you'll slip a little more and raise temp. if you go to .030" now it'll break into your perfect setting and stay there for a while. also if they have 22cool down there ,get some and use it. rotella oils seem to work the best,and 22C just caps it off :thumbsup:

  • flatnacker

Posted April 09, 2006 - 06:06 PM


Thanks mate you are a champion!!! :thumbsup: Appreciate your help :thumbsup:

  • wr429j

Posted April 09, 2006 - 07:16 PM


I have the clutch overide and can reach it with my index finger. Having the rear brake relocated is one of the best thing I have done to the bike yet.
I change my oil after each ride (Delo 400) and have had good results.
I also started with my gap at .030.
As far as the Customer service they are awesome. At the Phoenix Worcs race I took my bike to their booth and they were more that happy to check it out to see that the perch adjuster etc. was setup correctly. Their tech even fabbed up a support for the perch adjuster to keep it from flopping around.
I'm very happy with my Rekluse.
:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :confused:

  • Indy_WR450

Posted April 10, 2006 - 03:27 AM


The new Delo 400 does not seem to work well with our Rekluse. Factory is recommending Shell Rotella T right now off the record. :thumbsup:

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted April 10, 2006 - 08:14 PM


Hey Indy, we have been following your oil posts, trying to stay on top of things, thanks by the way. :thumbsup: My question is this. Upon checkng labels of most diesel engine oils they all 'look' the same. They all meet the same standards. So why is it Shell now? Is it 'moly' related. Will it hurt to finish up the Delo 400 we already bought and then just switch to Rotella. And which wieght should we get. Thanks, I know this has been hashed and re-hashed. Its alot of info for a couple of dumb blue collar Montanans. :thumbsup:

  • Indy_WR450

Posted April 11, 2006 - 03:29 AM


Yes dump the Delo 400 immediately. It can fry your plates in two or three oil changes. It has too much Moly. Save it for the kids bikes or your truck. Shell Rotella T 15W40 has Moly but seems to be acceptable by Rekluse factory advise. I am running a 50/50 blend of the straight Rotella T 30W oil blend with Rotella T 15W40. The Rekluse clutch now engages with less slipping. :thumbsup:

  • ncmountainman

Posted April 11, 2006 - 06:40 AM


Hey Indy, we have been following your oil posts, trying to stay on top of things, thanks by the way. :thumbsup: My question is this. Upon checkng labels of most diesel engine oils they all 'look' the same. They all meet the same standards. So why is it Shell now? Is it 'moly' related. Will it hurt to finish up the Delo 400 we already bought and then just switch to Rotella. And which wieght should we get. Thanks, I know this has been hashed and re-hashed. Its alot of info for a couple of dumb blue collar Montanans. :confused:

if the delo is not rated CI-4 PLUS its ok,it'll say on the bottom of the API circle. now the 15-40 rotella is also rated CI-4 PLUS but,they did not add any more friction modifiers as did chevron :thumbsup:

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted April 11, 2006 - 11:45 AM


Thanks guys. My Delo is rate Ci-4 Plus. :thumbsup: I will go ahead and get some Rotella. Thanks agian. :thumbsup:


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