Valve Adjustment and Shim Exchange?
Posted April 03, 2006 - 02:30 PM
1. Anyone can do it if they take their time and watch out for small hidden parts.
2. Why does this have to be such a convoluted process. On my old trusty TT you just pull the cover, check the gap, use the nifty little tool to depress the valve, swap the shim, put it back together, and go. With the WR you have to remove the upper engine brace and valve cover then check the gap. No problem yet. Then if you need to swap a shim you need to remove the carb, cam chain tensioner, cams, lifters... With an extra half hour you could just about do a complete rebuild! Absolutely ridiculous when other competing machines can be adjusted with half the effort. By the way make sure you have a magnet to pull off the lifter before you start. Luckily I found one in my brake bleeder thingy.
3. Why does a single shim smaller than the tip of my pinky cost nearly $8? 30 dollars and 4 shims (lucky I could swap the fifth) later I am putting all the pieces back together.
4. I dropped the chain wheile rotating the cam a tooth. Yes I tied it up while the cams were out but removed the wire while orienting the cam. No biggie, went fishing and recovered the chain with a piece of wire.
5. Who the hell was the engineer who put those clips on the cam. I was damn paranoid about dropping those into the abyss.
6. I wanted to play with my carb needle anyway and this gave me an excuse but why should I have to take off the carb to adjust my valves. Friggin stupid.
I did it. 4 out of five valves were at minimum tolerance and the fifth one was just out. So all five shims were changed. Mid spec on one and close to max on the rest. Bike fired up on first touch of the button and seems to run fine.
Question: Since I am sure that we all have shims we can no longer use can we start a shim exchange here. 35 cents beats $8 anyday and I will ship mine to anyone who needs them FREE but I would like the sam courtesy from others.
I have the following shims:
3 x 178
1 x 180
I will need a bunch of 170s and a 165 after a while.
If you have shims you can't use post them. If you need shims post what you need.
What do you guys think?
Posted April 03, 2006 - 07:25 PM
Posted April 03, 2006 - 08:42 PM
Posted April 03, 2006 - 08:51 PM
Checking the clearances is the easiest thing to do. It takes less than 10 minutes to do. Follow the manual!
I think it is an awesome idea but now you have scared the hell out of me about checking my valves. I have never done this before and it now sounds difficult. have you ever done this kind of thing before? I can get my with minor maintenance on vehicles and am comfortable wrenching, but with something this delicate I want to make sure I am not getting in over my head.
It is changing the shims that is the pain in the ass, but thank your lucky stars it is a very rare thing to do on our Yamaha's!
Posted April 04, 2006 - 04:33 AM
I wanted to play with my carb needle anyway and this gave me an excuse but why should I have to take off the carb to adjust my valves. Friggin stupid.
I didn't have to take the carb off.
Posted April 04, 2006 - 05:27 AM
Posted April 04, 2006 - 06:12 AM
Have you got a yamaha manual???
Anyone have a pic of where the shims are placed? How are they secured? The last valve adjustment I did was on a 4 cylinder OHC car engine. So I have the general ideal but I got my first thumper 3 years ago and I've not done valves on a thumper yet.
Posted April 04, 2006 - 08:10 AM
Shims are secured in a recess on top of the valve under the lifter.
Any thoughts on the shim exchange? It is not like they will ever wear out.
Posted April 04, 2006 - 10:27 AM
Posted April 04, 2006 - 12:20 PM
Posted April 04, 2006 - 01:55 PM
Posted April 16, 2006 - 11:17 AM
Just did my '05 a year after the initial break-in and shim exchange with zero movement, everything is in spec with no issues. Gotta love that 5-valve technology ...SC
Posted April 16, 2006 - 12:04 PM
I just grinded them down 0.05 mm with some fine abrasive cloth on a flat surface.