scotts stabilizer mount
Posted October 08, 2001 - 08:50 PM
I know not crashing would be a seemingly simple solution, but probably not practical for me. This weekend I decided to wheelie across a 20' wide 6" deep creek in third gear. Turned out it was more like 30" deep. My bike and I made it across the hard way.
The scotts salesman convinced me not to put a pad over the stabilizer but this incident changed my mind. The little bastard tagged me in the groin as I flew over the bars.
On a more pleasant note, several TTers have inquired about the gas mileage improvement with the BK mod. I noticed a big improvement this weekend. I don't have an Odometer but I've done the same ride before and had a lot more gas left over this time. Runs better too.
Posted October 09, 2001 - 05:16 AM
Posted October 09, 2001 - 05:32 AM
Posted October 10, 2001 - 07:34 AM
Headstock bolt-on mount. It seats completely (no welds in way) but I didn't trim the seal back. I tighten it as tight as it will go with a standard 3-4" allen wrench. Any tighter will require an allen-socket, and new bolts after I strip them out.
When it comes off it just rotates off the headstock and moves with the handlebars.
Posted October 10, 2001 - 03:44 PM
y2k wr, airbox lid removed, 180 main, 48 pilot, 426yz er needle,
wr timing, WB E-series S-bend w/ tapered head pipe
acerbis tank(yz), sdg seat(yz), scotts damper
Posted October 14, 2001 - 03:34 PM
If you did not trim the seal, I do not see how the mount could be "seated completely" as the seal will keep the mount a millimiter or so higher than it should be. This reduction in clamping area may be contributing to your problem.
You do not need to trim very much from the seal in order to get the mount to seat well. An Xacto knife works great. I don't think the seals performance will be significantly affected as all important things are still covered.
In addition, I incrementally tightened the 2 bolts using a normal allen wrench and a fishing scale* to make sure they were being tighened evenly and to the manufacturers specification of 4 foot pounds. They make a very BIG deal about proper installation of the mount. I was suprised at how hard I had to torque down, but the bolts didn't break and so far it has not come off.
* Using a fishing scale, I could determine the amount of force being put on the allen wrench. I then measured the length of the wrench at the point where I hooked the wrench.
Torque = (Force) x (Length of Wrench)
4 foot pounds = 4 pounds of pressure on a 1 foot (12 inch) wrench
You can also use 8 pounds on a 6 inch wrench
or 12 pounds on a 4 inch wrench
or 16 pounds on a 3 inch wrench
All of these are 4 foot pounds (or 48 inch pounds)
Hope this helps.
Posted October 19, 2001 - 06:30 AM
Just stuck my scott's on and haven't ridden yet. I don't think you need to trim that seal though. After I did it, I realized I could have just sat the clamp on the steering head and used a small screwdriver to lift the edge of the seal up over the clamp, but like you said, the trimming won't hurt anything. I didn't have a 3mm hex socket either so I decided to buy one(I like to use my torque wrench). No luck at sears, autozone, pep-boys and NAPA. Finally went to a Tool store and paid $8. Worst part was I left it on the counter along with the screw and had to go back. I used your fishing scale method recently when tightening the steering ring nut. Took a pair of sears robogrips which clamped right on to it, extended the robogrips to 12 inches and tightened it with the scale.
Posted October 19, 2001 - 10:38 AM
Pretend it's flat and give it the gas.
Posted October 19, 2001 - 11:43 AM
2000 Yamaha WR400F
1988 Honda NT650 Hawk
1977 Suzuki RM250B
1974 Honda XR75K1