Trouble starting and idling after AIS removal kit


5 replies to this topic
  • Toinky

Posted March 29, 2006 - 10:55 PM

#1

I just got a new '06 WR450F and, after one brief run with it stock, tore into it today to install the AIS removal kit (isn't installing a removal kit a contradction?). I followed the instructions exactly, including replacing the needle, pilot jet and throttle stop screw, along with the exhaust and airbox plugs. I also pulled the gray wire. I'm having trouble getting the bike to start as easy as it did before, and it doesn't want to idle properly. Any suggestions?

  • OneToGo

Posted March 30, 2006 - 04:03 AM

#2

Have you modded the exhaust as well? Too little back pressure wont help starting.
BTW, the jetting forum/performance sticky recommend a 68/70/72 starter jet depending on TEMP/ALT- the STD is 65 and too lean. Also, I recommend upping the idle speed. Dont try run the idle too low. They can be set up to idle around 1200, but you get better starting and Off Idle throttle response with a 1700-1900rpm idle.
Make sure you also you also at least remove the airbox snorkle..
Enjoy
:thumbsup:

  • dl19

Posted March 31, 2006 - 10:53 AM

#3

I would start adjusting the air screw first from around one turn out then more. Also turn up the idle a little. Is this only a cold start problem. Blip the throttle once or twice if cold before doing anything. Try with no choke, and if it starts easier your too rich on the air screw. If it takes choke after warm your too lean. I am positive this is a jetting problem, and with a little adjusting it will be resolved. Don't go crazy with adjustments only one type and a little at a time. May take several days or hours to get same type of conditions, but try to be as consistent as possible. You will constantly be adjusting if you change for every single new temp, elevation, etc.. Just find the middle ground for most of your riding and set it up for that. If you change drastically to a different riding condition then you may want to make a change. Ie. You ride mountain/hilly ground with decent traction, and then go to the dunes for a weekend of screaming RPM/no load riding.

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • Toinky

Posted March 31, 2006 - 12:21 PM

#4

Thanks for input. I turned up the idle speed, which seemed to help, but things don't seem to be on the money yet.

OneToGo: No, I didn't do the exhaust mod--I'm ordering the Pro Moto insert. How should that affect things?

dl19: I will do the messing with the air screw to see how that affects things. I hear you on the "don't change too many things at once." I also understand that constantly messing with things is not a good idea. However, people are all excited about a Zip Ty adjustment screw. Why? How often does a guy need to mess with the air mixture once he has it set right? (The implication is that one changes it regularly.)

On a general education note, what exactly does the air screw/fuel mixture screw do in general and in relation to jetting, and is there a tutorial on how to set it properly (or do you just gradually tweak it until the bike seems to run best)?

Thanks again for the help. :thumbsup:

  • dl19

Posted March 31, 2006 - 04:54 PM

#5

The info is in here on what each item in the carb does. The air screw is for the idle/first part of throttle opening. It is not the only thing that affects fuel like your leak jet, etc.. You actually can do a lot of initial throttle adjustment with your air screw. If you ride in a area with a lot of elevation/Temp/Humidity changes you will adjust it slightly often. There are some threads in here on everyones choice. Set the idle a little high and then I screw it in until it stumbles then out until it stumbles, and then back in usually half a turn to get started. Now if you need a little more or less fuel at slow speeds/minimal throttle open or close it a little. As far as Zip Ty is concerned it is good looking easy to turn screw. There are several brands with different designs, but they all make the air screw adjustable by hand. I can't remember right off, but there is one name brand that looks exactly like the Zip Ty or vice versa. I went with the extra hard anodized Zip Ty, but it could be only a sales pitch. I figured I would be adjusting my air screw almost every ride because we ride hills "mountains" to some, and it is not uncommon to go from 1000-6000' in 15 miles of riding. So our bikes run a little rich or lean, but the other option is a pain in the :thumbsup: . I am not going to spend 30 minutes or more making the "perfect" jetting adjustment every day depending on where we go. That does not factor in the wear and tear just taking things apart and putting them back together.

  • OneToGo

Posted March 31, 2006 - 07:29 PM

#6

Thanks for input. I turned up the idle speed, which seemed to help, but things don't seem to be on the money yet.

OneToGo: No, I didn't do the exhaust mod--I'm ordering the Pro Moto insert. How should that affect things?

dl19: I will do the messing with the air screw to see how that affects things. I hear you on the "don't change too many things at once." I also understand that constantly messing with things is not a good idea. However, people are all excited about a Zip Ty adjustment screw. Why? How often does a guy need to mess with the air mixture once he has it set right? (The implication is that one changes it regularly.)

On a general education note, what exactly does the air screw/fuel mixture screw do in general and in relation to jetting, and is there a tutorial on how to set it properly (or do you just gradually tweak it until the bike seems to run best)?

Thanks again for the help. :thumbsup:



1. ANY TIME you make an mod to your bike that alters GAS FLOW you should re-evaluate your jetting...now ONLY if we had EFI..(I wont go there)
2. My take is that it is difficult to get the jetting setup on the WR "on the money" until you have done ALL your mods - many have tried and posted, but until ALL the mods are done you will be compromising on the final set-up. BTW, I did ALL my mods in one go...
3. So, if you changed your jetting and not your exhaust I think it will be OFF, possibly rich (get that exhaust done)
4. Re. the Fuel screw (Zip-Ty or whatever) This allows fine tuning the pilot circuit( PJ,PAJ) fuel flow at small throttle openings and, yes, essentially once setup you wont need to change it much. See "how to setup" your pilot circuit in the jetting forum - very simple. The premise is if the (pilot jet) PJ is too big, then the fuel screw will have to be turned in to restrict the fuel flow, vv if too small. So you set (change) the PJ for a fuel screw setting of around 1 to 2.5 turns out.
5. INDY and Clark have some jetting data base guides (posts) that are VERY close to spot on for the WR, slight differences may exist due individual bike setups but I found them a good starting point. PM me if you need the numbers.
6. THE BOTTOM line, dont be too concerned with fine tuning until your pipe and intake are in their final config.

enjoy

:thumbsup:




 
x

Join Our Community!

Even if you don't want to post, registered members get access to tools that make finding & following the good stuff easier.

If you enjoyed reading about "" here in the ThumperTalk archive, you'll LOVE our community. Come join ThumperTalk today!

The views and opinions expressed on this page are strictly those of the author, and have not been reviewed or approved by ThumperTalk.