more tic tic boom snap pics


17 replies to this topic
  • robg

Posted March 11, 2006 - 09:41 PM

#1

Here are some more pics of my 2000 wr400. Ugly
http://i36.photobuck...73/PICT2359.jpg
http://i36.photobuck...73/PICT2356.jpg
http://i36.photobuck...73/PICT2355.jpg
You might have seen this one
http://i36.photobuck...73/PICT2349.jpg
Lots of stuff broke. So what do you think went first ?

  • cubera

Posted March 11, 2006 - 09:45 PM

#2

Holy shit, robg! &%$#@! happened?

  • swatcie

Posted March 11, 2006 - 09:50 PM

#3

did you do :thumbsup:

  • MotoRick

Posted March 11, 2006 - 10:29 PM

#4

Was this a street ridden bike? Not much head damage except for the one bent valve. Considering how much lower end damage there is, I'd say the conn rod went first and it had to be revving pretty fast to spin enough times to do that much case damage. The clean break of the rod tends to back that up.

  • ttr225ttr

Posted March 11, 2006 - 10:38 PM

#5

Daaaaaymmnnn!!

  • OneToGo

Posted March 11, 2006 - 10:43 PM

#6

My guess:

1. Something went amiss in the combustion / head area, at high RPM - stuck or bent valve, possibly due to detonation (messy combustion area!) , hence...
2. The con-rod suffered too much stress and - BINGO! Tic Tic ...

The rest is history :thumbsup:

Colin

  • Kepy

Posted March 12, 2006 - 12:30 AM

#7

my condolences man :thumbsup:

  • Beejay

Posted March 12, 2006 - 05:28 AM

#8

Thats some damage there, it's dead now.

  • ETP

Posted March 12, 2006 - 07:31 AM

#9

:thumbsup: Painful to look at!

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  • ncampion

Posted March 12, 2006 - 08:28 AM

#10

Hey, isn't that rod supposed to be pointing up! That's the problem!!

  • Yamadirt 426

Posted March 12, 2006 - 09:28 AM

#11

so how long you out for? How much $ is it gonna take to fix? Can u do it youself? Riding season is apon us. Good luck man!!

  • MotoRick

Posted March 12, 2006 - 01:43 PM

#12

My guess:

1. Something went amiss in the combustion / head area, at high RPM - stuck or bent valve, possibly due to detonation (messy combustion area!) , hence...
2. The con-rod suffered too much stress and - BINGO! Tic Tic ...

I dunno. I'd expect to see a lot more piston/head damage if the valve had hit the piston. Looking at the piston's valve pockets I just don't see enough there. As many times as the flywheels had to spin to do that much case damage, the piston had to have stopped moving almost immediately or there would be more damage to it and the valvetrain. I would expect to see a broken valve, not just a bent one, and a hole in the piston. The bent valve appears to be collateral damage after the initial rod failure that was perhaps caused by a seized wrist pin bearing. Catastrophic rod failure from prolonged and frequent over-revving, possibly exacerbated by an oil flow problem is my guess. Probably no way to know for sure, though. Pretty freaky whatever the cause. :thumbsup:

  • robg

Posted March 13, 2006 - 10:39 AM

#13

My guess is When I rode a real wide open track (ice racing) this winter and there was a few spots where I was pinned to get the lead and then backed out of it because I didn't want to blow it up. I think that was where the damage was done. Then a few races later I was going around a corner and tapped it into 2nd from 3rd and she over revved. I thought I caught I but about 5 corners later she was done . So now I think I know the combination of all the bad things that might of lead to that ouch. I also have raced that bike 3 ice seasons and I think when a fellow does that kind of stuff to then it's time to re rod them every so often. I did the tranny and the head and a new piston and rings But the Rod looked good but for the price I should have done it. I have decide to rebuild it and I'll keep y'all posted on the final rebuild cost.

an expensive lesson learned

  • MotoRick

Posted March 13, 2006 - 12:02 PM

#14

Racing will do it every time. You kind of have to adapt a different attitude about replacement with a race bike. More of a do it anyway, rather than a wait until necessary attitude. With these modern 4-strokes it is important to replace things on a schedule instead of just hoping things will last. Sorry you're learning this the hard way. Good luck on the rebuild. :thumbsup:

  • TimBrp

Posted March 13, 2006 - 01:07 PM

#15

Hell if I ever need a motor grenaded I know who to look up. Damn!

  • R_Little

Posted March 13, 2006 - 01:51 PM

#16

Here are some more pics of my 2000 wr400. Ugly
Lots of stuff broke. So what do you think went first ?


I'd guess the rod small end went south causing the rod to break.
The small end is the weak link on the old 400f's. I just replaced mine with a 426 rod.

Fixing it is not an option. You need to find a motor or sell the chassis.

If you sell the chassis, let me know and maybe I can use any salvagable parts out of that motor.

Was it ticking for a while before it blew up?

  • AHRMA17L

Posted March 13, 2006 - 02:08 PM

#17

I have never witnessed anything like that on a motorcycle, however I have seen a lot of this when we used to race cars, particularly in drag racing and circle track.

Usually something like this would happened upon deceleration after a high RPM run, I.e. the run out after 1/4 mile at the drags, or at the end of a straight decelerating into the corner in circle track.

I can't remember ever seeing this happen at a low RPM or under acceleration.

  • OneToGo

Posted March 13, 2006 - 06:20 PM

#18

Thanks for keeping us informed

My guess is When I rode a real wide open track (ice racing) ....then it's time to re rod them every so often. I did the tranny and the head and a new piston and rings But the Rod looked good but for the price I should have done it. I have decide to rebuild it and I'll keep y'all posted on the final rebuild cost.

an expensive lesson learned

:thumbsup:
Good luck with the rebuild. Just for info, a friend of mine built a high performance turbo motor and had the standard rods "shot peened" to add strength - a cheap alternative to buying beefed up rods when you dont want added weight.
Colin




 
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