stripping out your oil drain bolts.
Posted October 01, 2001 - 05:09 AM
Posted October 01, 2001 - 11:10 PM
Posted October 02, 2001 - 07:56 AM
As far as using torque wrenches, I consider them to be mandatory on every fastener on my bike. It's interesting that the natural tendency is to give it a bit extra for good measure. When using the torque wrench I very often "feel" like the wrench gave up too early. But, I've disciplined myself to trust the torque wrench (I make sure I'm using a quality wrench designed for the needed torque range, of course). I've heard a lot of stories of problems from over torqued bolts and even some about neglecting to put a wrench on bolts that can vibrate themselves loose. I even had problems from using a torque wrench that was too big. But I've never heard one of these sad stories start out like "I torqued the bolt properly to spec..."
Just my $0.02.
[This message has been edited by neWRiver (edited October 02, 2001).]
Posted October 02, 2001 - 08:24 AM
Posted October 02, 2001 - 09:24 PM
Also...invest (and use) in a good torque wrench. I only use the TW on the ones where I feel its necessary (eg cam housing, suspension pinch bolts), otherwise just by 'feel'. Never a problem.
Airbox Lid - gone
Throttle Stop - shorty!
Plastics/Tank/Seat - One Industries
Posted October 02, 2001 - 12:53 PM
Posted October 02, 2001 - 12:57 PM
Posted October 02, 2001 - 04:21 PM
Posted October 04, 2001 - 02:04 AM
Never seen a drain plug vibrate out? Well that's exactly what happened to me a couple of weeks back. Did a whole enduro one week, then started an MX the next (no oil changes in between) and it came out in practice. Expensive!!
Posted October 06, 2001 - 03:04 AM
Posted October 07, 2001 - 02:24 PM
This is very embarrassing for me, but i must admit that i have also been guilty of this.My excuse was i must have been changing my oil too often.Seriously dont be too hard on yourselve,if you look up tht drain hole you will see that it is slotted to allow you to drain every drop of oil out therefore it is a lot easier to strip if you are a bit heavy fisted.Take you bike to a proficent engineering shop and get them to fit a helicoil. It is very important to get it aligned perfectually otherwise the bung will not seal properly.Also get them to use plenty of oil to catch the swarth and also flush any other swarth out by squirting some engine oil up the drain hole while the bike is vertical. Make sure you go to a descent shop as i know of one poor chap where they tried to tap out the drainhole to fit a larger bolt and cracked the case.(too bigger tap)Mine was done over a year ago with no problems.I also drilled a hole (about 2 mm)through the bung and saftey wired the bung to the frame.This way you only have to just nip it up and be confident it wont come undone
Cheers Ross at NZ
99WR400 Yz tank and seat,ohlins steering damper,terrycable hotstart.14/52 gearing
Posted October 08, 2001 - 05:15 AM
I am a machinist and a mechanic so the experience of stripping my drain bolt was very humbling.
I used a time-sert to repair my misdeed.
If you are in the bay area I have the kit and inserts to do the drain thread repair.
Just email me.
Oh yea, use a thin washer with t5he aftermarket magnetic bolt.
Posted October 08, 2001 - 06:33 AM
thanks in advance,
[This message has been edited by Ronin (edited October 08, 2001).]
Posted October 08, 2001 - 07:56 AM
They have a website.
It is an expensive (90$) kit, but once you only have to buy it once and murphies law has it that you will never need it again...
Posted October 10, 2001 - 03:20 PM
Posted October 18, 2001 - 02:45 AM