Trail/Mountain riding/gearing


14 replies to this topic
  • stknrdr

Posted March 08, 2006 - 08:09 AM

#1

I do a lot of mountain/trail riding in addition to the track. My 06 450 that I just bought (traded my WR250 on it) is geared perfect for the track but way way way too fast for the type of trails I always seem to end up on. So......Ive got a new rear wheel in my sights...am planning on putting on a nice sticky trials tire and the biggest sprocket I can find. Im thinking it shouldnt be too much trouble to swap out the rear wheel before a big trail ride.

Has anybody done this and what is your impression? Before somebody says "Dude just ride it in the woods as is...youll get used to the gearing" let me just say one thing...on the trails I ride around here...you cannot go TOO slow. Yeah, I should have another bike for trails, but hey I just dropped 7 grand on a sweet sweet machine :thumbsup:

And I did do a search...saw a lot of things....I guess what im looking for...is what are people impressions of going really big on the rear sprocket....does it get too twitchy to ride through rough rocky sections anyway? or will it settle down and idle on through?

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted March 08, 2006 - 08:50 AM

#2

I dont really have an answer for you but I can tell you that I went to a 12/50 ratio, (stock was 13/49 I believe) and its still geared to high for the tight stuff. I am thinking of going to a rekluse instead, then I will have the best of both worlds.

  • stknrdr

Posted March 08, 2006 - 09:19 AM

#3

I dont really have an answer for you but I can tell you that I went to a 12/50 ratio, (stock was 13/49 I believe) and its still geared to high for the tight stuff. I am thinking of going to a rekluse instead, then I will have the best of both worlds.



Well I thought after reading your post that Id better get scientifical about it.

Heres some numbers I crunched -

Stock ratio (49/13) = 3.769 - wayy too fast
Your ratio (12/50) = 4.166 - still too fast
An option (52/13) = 4.0 - thats gonna be too fast also
Another option (52/12) = 4.33 - better -

that last option would leave me with track gearing of (12/49) = 4.08 might be doable until I wore out my original rear sprocket and then I could go to (12/48) for a 4.0 = both quite a bit lower than the stock 3.769 which feels really nice to me on the track.


So i guess the question that begs answering...is what is the 12/48 ratio like on the track? Its quite a big change from 3.769....would it suck? If it was okay then id be able to choose between 4.00 and 4.33 depending on the ride that day,

Ive never used a rekluse so im not sure I want that on the track.


PS
I looked a little closer...I see a 47 rear...i could also go with a 12/47 for the track...3.91...getting closer.

  • stknrdr

Posted March 08, 2006 - 10:32 AM

#4

Ooookay...heres the plan...after much deliberation, thought and research.

I'm going to go ahead and get my new rear wheel...and install a 53 tooth sprocket and a nice sticky trials tire on it. (easy on the throttle hoss :thumbsup: )

I'm going to install a 12 tooth front sprocket on my bike.

Thats going to give me a woods ratio of 12/53 = 4.41

Im going to install a 47 sprocket on my MX wheel... for a 12/47 = 3.91 which is really close to the 13/50 people are running happily.

With that setup when I go on my long trail rides I can just whip the trail wheel on and be good to go.


I think after awhile ill spring for the rekluse clutch too...my sprockets and wheel money wont be wasted...the lower gearing will keep clutch slippage down on the trail, and keep the heat down, and etc.

Anybody see any flies in my ointment that I dont?

  • SurvivorMan

Posted March 08, 2006 - 12:20 PM

#5

I'm really curious how that gearing turns out for, i ride a lot of tight technical trails too where 1st is just too tall, however that section of trail might only be 1/2 an hour out of my 4 hour ride, the nasty rooty rocky section always leads into a little more open ridges or climbs. that lowered gearing should make wheelies simple in 5th but if you have anything less then perfect traction your back tire is gonna breakfree every chance it gets. in muddy, icy, loose rocks, loamy or sandy conditions your wheel spin will be greatly reduced. the one benefit would be a lower more usable 2nd gear, with first being for very rare occasions. i have only ridden my 06 yz450 twice and so far i think i will try 2 teeth taller on the spare 18" wheel (excellent idea). beware, the smaller 12 tooth front will grind right through your chain guide and way into your swingarm.
i find a better method for attacking technical trails is with a huge flywheel weight and for some, the rekluse. the 12 oz works great for me, but for a little more open hare scrambles i will take the weight off and use stock gearing.
my new 450 just doesn't come close to my old 300 mxc for bushwacking, nasty technical type ride, but this 450 is so much better in anything faster then 1st gear.

  • steve-o-2slo

Posted March 08, 2006 - 12:43 PM

#6

I recently setup an '04 yz450 for some fairly tight steep trails in BC. First I went to a 13-50 sprocket set cause it was the lowest all steel set I could find. This was close but I was feathering the clutch like mad on the real steep stuff and I was stalling when hopping over large logs and rocks. I regretted not going 13-52 until...

I then installed the Rekluse autoclutch and found the gearing is now perfect for extremely tight trails and am even considering going back to a 14t front for anything but the ugliest stop and go woods riding. I'm making my own clutch to rear brake conversion and this thing will be an awesome lightweight woods weapon very shortly.

Get the autoclutch, you'll be amazed and all your friends with heavy elec. start KTMs and WRs will be left in the dust with their 35lbs of excess baggage. LOL

oh ya unabiker rad guards and acerbis multiplo handguards are awesome too and essential if you bounce off trees as much as I do!!

  • stknrdr

Posted March 08, 2006 - 12:47 PM

#7

wow steve o now you have me thinking more seriously about the autoclutch...it would sure be a lot simpler to not have to change the rear wheel all the time....how about clutch durability? Is it gonna hold up to all that slipping?

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  • steve-o-2slo

Posted March 08, 2006 - 01:02 PM

#8

I have yet to find out about durability of the clutch on the big bore bikes, a buddy has one in a yzf 250 thats a few years old with no issues. I'm going to stay away from synthetic oil and try shell rotella with frequent changes to extend the life of my clutch.

But swapping a front sprocket with a chain adjustment is pretty easy (and cheaper) compared to doing a rear wheel change.

It would be nice to have an 18" wheel for the bush though if you go with 2 rear wheel assemblies.

  • kxman

Posted March 08, 2006 - 01:21 PM

#9

I am riding some ridiculously tight sections with my 06 450. Originally went to a 52 tooth sprocket on rear. It was still a little tall for some sections but I could have gotten used to it. While digging through my spare parts I found a new unused 12 tooth sprocket I had originaly bought for my 2000 KX250. Fit right on. I really like this setup. For those talking about it hitting too hard, shift up! Most of the time I ride in second and third and save 1st for the tightest stuff. As far as wearing out the chain slider I will keep an eye on it and replace it when it gets worn, no big deal. I went the auto clutch route on my KX, don't think I am going there again. To me it takes some of the fun out of riding. But that is just me.

  • mkporn

Posted March 08, 2006 - 04:20 PM

#10

I do a lot of mountain/trail riding in addition to the track. My 06 450 that I just bought (traded my WR250 on it) is geared perfect for the track but way way way too fast for the type of trails I always seem to end up on. So......Ive got a new rear wheel in my sights...am planning on putting on a nice sticky trials tire and the biggest sprocket I can find. Im thinking it shouldnt be too much trouble to swap out the rear wheel before a big trail ride.

Has anybody done this and what is your impression? Before somebody says "Dude just ride it in the woods as is...youll get used to the gearing" let me just say one thing...on the trails I ride around here...you cannot go TOO slow. Yeah, I should have another bike for trails, but hey I just dropped 7 grand on a sweet sweet machine :thumbsup:

And I did do a search...saw a lot of things....I guess what im looking for...is what are people impressions of going really big on the rear sprocket....does it get too twitchy to ride through rough rocky sections anyway? or will it settle down and idle on through?



What area of Idaho are you riding in? I have been all over the central and north Idaho area and am just wondering. I ran a 13/51 most of the time and it worked great. Some times I would wish for a little lower but. Let me know where you are riding and maybe I can make a better call if it is the same areas. :thumbsup:

  • stknrdr

Posted March 08, 2006 - 05:47 PM

#11

What area of Idaho are you riding in? I have been all over the central and north Idaho area and am just wondering. I ran a 13/51 most of the time and it worked great. Some times I would wish for a little lower but. Let me know where you are riding and maybe I can make a better call if it is the same areas. :thumbsup:



I ride in Southeast Idaho...mostly in the bear river range...... some in the wasatch range also......down in the bear lake area if you have a map :thumbsup:

  • mkporn

Posted March 08, 2006 - 09:11 PM

#12

got it..... about 6-7 hrs away. :thumbsup:

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted March 19, 2006 - 10:59 PM

#13

Well I thought after reading your post that Id better get scientifical about it.

Heres some numbers I crunched -

Stock ratio (49/13) = 3.769 - wayy too fast
Your ratio (12/50) = 4.166 - still too fast
An option (52/13) = 4.0 - thats gonna be too fast also
Another option (52/12) = 4.33 - better -

that last option would leave me with track gearing of (12/49) = 4.08 might be doable until I wore out my original rear sprocket and then I could go to (12/48) for a 4.0 = both quite a bit lower than the stock 3.769 which feels really nice to me on the track.


So i guess the question that begs answering...is what is the 12/48 ratio like on the track? Its quite a big change from 3.769....would it suck? If it was okay then id be able to choose between 4.00 and 4.33 depending on the ride that day,

Ive never used a rekluse so im not sure I want that on the track.

This weekend I got my new Rekluse and my Renthal 52 tooth on my bike. I rode with the Rekluse, but havent ridden the 52 (12/52) other than just around in front of my shop. The Rekluse is totally awesome and the gearing 'feels' good to me. Hopefully it will quit friggen snowing so I can go ride later this week. I will keep you posted.

  • stknrdr

Posted March 20, 2006 - 10:02 AM

#14

Yeah man,
I am getting tired of the snow myself...I got one good ride in last week and then the crap started all over again. Ah well...soon I'll be bitching that its too hot....nahh I wont. :thumbsup:

I think you guys just about have me convinced on the rekluse. So after having ridden yours...you think that its really necessary to have the perch adjuster? Just wondering if I really need it or not.

And how is that badboy? Can you ride as slow as you wanna with it?

  • black_n_blue_thumper

Posted March 20, 2006 - 10:18 PM

#15

Yeah dude, its the real deal. The Rekluse is the coolest thing I have ever had. I kept forgeting I had it and was grabbing the clutch all the time. I would buy the perch adjuster. For the money, its damn nice to have. The best of both worlds, you know. You can get the whole setup for under 500 fun tokens right here on TT. Thats one helluva deal. :thumbsup:





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