Want to do a homemade dualsport kit.


20 replies to this topic
  • JCORMI

Posted March 07, 2006 - 01:56 PM

#1

I finally have some money saved after paying for my bike and all the stuff that goes along with it. Spring is hare and I want to do a dualsport kit, I have some questions for you guys that have done them on your own. I went on baja designs website and priced an instrument cluster which looks like it has a button for hi/low beam, blinkers, and horn, blinkers themselves, brake switch, headlight bulb, horn, flasher, and finally the rectifier. Everything came to right around 200$. Is there anything else that I will need? Is there a cheaper place to buy the rectifier? BD wants 50$ for theres. I will have more questions later, but just want to here from you guys if this is a good place to start.
Oh yeah, what kind and gauge of wire is used to wire everything up? Thanks in advance.

  • clark4131

Posted March 07, 2006 - 02:15 PM

#2

You might want to give Trick Dual Sport a call. From what I've heard, they have a great product and their customer service is unmatched. Baja Designs on the other hand, is about 50/50 on quality and service...SC

  • cleonard

Posted March 07, 2006 - 02:26 PM

#3

Thing is it's not just a rectifier. It's a voltage regulator too. Voltage scales with rpm. At 7000 it might be putting out 50 volts. That would fry everything.

All things being equal smaller wire is easier to deal with, but bigger wire is better electrically. 18 gage should be OK. Maybe 16 gage for the headlight if you are going 100 watts or over.

  • PBDBLUE

Posted March 07, 2006 - 02:57 PM

#4

Check this link out :->

http://www.trailtech..._conversion.htm

I've had one of their regulators in my '01 WR426 for several years now with no issues. Price is much better too.

  • Few

Posted March 07, 2006 - 03:17 PM

#5

Don't forget mirrors and a good lock too.

  • Newfoundlander

Posted March 07, 2006 - 05:08 PM

#6

i have alot of information on a homemaid kit with diagrams etc a rectifier can be found at radio shack for $4.95cdn

  • beakr

Posted March 07, 2006 - 08:23 PM

#7

You don't need a rectifier. I did my '04 with the tips from TT posters, and it was pretty easy to do. Leave your head-light & tail-light on the stock AC (unless your state requires you to be able to run your head and tail lights while the engine is not running), and run blinkers (if you are required to have them) from your battery (DC). Horn can also be run DC from the battery. Do some searches--all the info you need to get you going in the right direction is here. Hopefully you also have the wiring schematics in your owner's manual--that can be helpful also. :thumbsup:

I set my blinkers up like Minion did in this thread:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=254879


toyota_mdt_tech shows you how to hook up your headlight to a high/low beam switch in this thread:
http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=190957

The hydraulic brake switch for the tail/stop light is pretty easy to figure out, otherwise, do some searches, and you'll find threads talking about that too.

Here's a thread on licence plate brackets:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=278512

You may have trouble getting your hot-start lever to clear your switch assembly--if so, check this thread:

http://www.thumperta...ad.php?t=332380

Everything you wanted to know about a dual-sport job is here--and you can save enough $$ doing it yourself to almost pay for that fancy new exhaust system you've been wanting. . . :thumbsup:

  • Bamster

Posted March 07, 2006 - 09:58 PM

#8

You can use one of these if your looking for the cheapy route
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  • JCORMI

Posted March 08, 2006 - 05:59 AM

#9

beakr, Have you had any problems with your bike because of not using a rectifier/regulator ? Is it safe to say that if I go on 4strokesonly.com and order the parts list that minion wrote down that you will be able to describe to me how to wire it all into the bike. I am not good with schematics, but can follow directions alright.
I want to do this ASAP. The weather around here has been beautiful and I have been stuck riding in the gravel pit next door.
Thanks to all you guys for the advice. I love this web site and all the knowledge I gain here.

  • Newfoundlander

Posted March 08, 2006 - 06:09 AM

#10

You don't need a rectifier but the headlight and taillight will run alot better and will eliminate all flickering and be brighter at idle that was the case on my xr400 anyway yours maybe a little different. Here is a wiring diagram
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  • Newfoundlander

Posted March 08, 2006 - 06:18 AM

#11

All i did was use the stock regulator took a power wire hooked it to the rectifier from radioshack then to my homade battery pack has worked flawlessly for 2 years now the rectifier cost me $4.95 at radioshack and is rated for 50 amps. The battery pack was 10 rechargeables 1.2v each wired in series giving 12v that cost $10 pretty cheap and has been running for 2 years.

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted March 08, 2006 - 10:26 AM

#12

This might give you some ideas:

My dual-sport page

  • JCORMI

Posted March 08, 2006 - 10:59 AM

#13

This might give you some ideas:

My dual-sport page



I just did some reading on that sight, that is the best breakdown I have seen yet. It says on that page that you should wire in a battery, does that mean I can use the battery already in the bike, or are they saying to use a seperate one from the one already existing?

  • Rich_in_Orlando

Posted March 08, 2006 - 11:22 AM

#14

If your bike already has a battery, use it. But the Wr450's wiring will have to be modified because the lights are running off of A/C. There is a rectifier to charge the battery but that is only for the starter. I'm not sure of the capacity of the rectifier or of the charging system on the 450s. It can be done but I do not know the effect it would have on starting reliability.

  • Thom_McNabb

Posted March 08, 2006 - 04:47 PM

#15

My $.02 => pick up a Trick Dual Sport kit, you won't be sorry and you'll be riding instead of making your kit.

I have done two bikes homestyle ( an 87 XR 600 and an 82 XR 200) and had two baja designs kit and now a Trick Dual sport. My homemade kits worked, but needed more maintenance over the years and I eventually spent more on odds and end to keep them going.

My Baja Designs kits (XR 600 and XR 400) were bolt on, lasted great, were high quality and had nice connectors and they had good technical and parts support. Thanks to Alan Roach over at Baja designs for being an innovator. :thumbsup:

My Trick Dual Sport (WR450) is high quality and very unobtrusive with nice features. Highly recommended. I never take it off even when racing enduros or on gnarly trail rides. The only thing that changes is the blinkers come off for racing. Dale at TDS has raised the bar another notch. :thumbsup:

If you decide to do it yourself, enjoy!

  • PBDBLUE

Posted March 08, 2006 - 05:02 PM

#16

I just did some reading on that sight, that is the best breakdown I have seen yet. It says on that page that you should wire in a battery, does that mean I can use the battery already in the bike, or are they saying to use a seperate one from the one already existing?


The sight you a looking at is for a 400/426 which is a totally different animal than the 450. You cannot convert a 450 over to a full DC system without some serious stator and wiring mods. But there is an easier way. Since you have a WR450 you don't need a battery or a rectifier. Wire up the brake, tail & turn signals to run on the DC magneto off the battery and swap out the tailight for a 1157 LED replacement bulb to reduce the load. Keep the headlight on the AC magneto. The DC circuit is only rated for just over 2 amps and will not power the headlight without draining the battery. If you are interested PM me with an email address and I'll send you a schematic.

  • beakr

Posted March 08, 2006 - 05:44 PM

#17

Heck, you don't even need to convert the brake/tail light to DC. It works just fine using the AC power that already runs the tail light stock--it just doesn't work when the engine is not running. Just splice into the hot wire that runs to the tail light with one of the wires from your hydraulic brake switch, and splice the other wire from the brake switch to the existing "input" wire for the brake light. No need for an LED bulb either--you can use the stock one, since it is already a dual-filament bulb.

Run your blinkers and horn from the battery. If you don't want the blinkers to work if your ignition switch is not on, then splice into power just after the ignition switch. That way, when your ignition is off, your blinkers or horn won't work.

  • fershy

Posted March 08, 2006 - 05:44 PM

#18

Can one run a LED on AC current rather than DC? I need to run one LED on AC. I am assuming a 300~400 Ohm resistor with a small rectifier would do it?

I am assuming that the AC is regulated to 14.5V?

fershy

  • PBDBLUE

Posted March 09, 2006 - 07:06 AM

#19

Heck, you don't even need to convert the brake/tail light to DC. It works just fine using the AC power that already runs the tail light stock--it just doesn't work when the engine is not running.


True but here in CA the tailight has to work with the engine off. No big deal to switch over to DC and it makes the wiring a bit simpler if you are using a combo switch (head, turn signal, horn, etc) because you don't have to mix AC and DC in the switch (you do need a relay to switch headlight hi/lo though). On my 450 I also use the combo switch to supply the 12 volt source to the ignition so I was able to get rid of the stock pushbutton. When the switch is in the off position basically all 12 volts is disconnected. Makes for a very clean install.

  • JCORMI

Posted March 09, 2006 - 10:17 AM

#20

True but here in CA the tailight has to work with the engine off. No big deal to switch over to DC and it makes the wiring a bit simpler if you are using a combo switch (head, turn signal, horn, etc) because you don't have to mix AC and DC in the switch (you do need a relay to switch headlight hi/lo though). On my 450 I also use the combo switch to supply the 12 volt source to the ignition so I was able to get rid of the stock pushbutton. When the switch is in the off position basically all 12 volts is disconnected. Makes for a very clean install.




I PMed you.




 
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