? regarding CR brake line with oldblue kit?


13 replies to this topic
  • flintlock28

Posted March 05, 2006 - 05:53 PM

#1

I just installed a MSR (galfer) stainless CR style front brake line, using TT member oldblue's kit (which by the way is very high quality)

One thing that scares me though, is that now it looks like my brake line will be close to rubbing the fork tube, and that when I hit a really big jump that really compresses the fork, the brake line will possibly be pinched by the upper fork tube crushing it......Anyone else used this setup?? and recommends what to do about it??

by the way, it's a 2004 Yz 450f.

Don
:thumbsup:

  • cowboyona426

Posted March 05, 2006 - 10:17 PM

#2

Don, do you have any pics? I don't know what kind of brake line I put on my old 426 (Ebay), but I used the oldblue clamp and never had any of the problems you described. One thing I will say, though, is that on my old 426 you have to trim the fork slider guards (part that bolts onto the fork tube) down to basically a ring, the shorter line put a small amount of pressure on the fork guard and caused problems after the forks fully extended (as they would after a jump or a wheelie). Here are the pics I took after installing the setup, maybe they'll be of help to you.

  • RideRaceLive123

Posted March 05, 2006 - 10:32 PM

#3

cowboyona426,

the pic doesn't work.

  • cowboyona426

Posted March 05, 2006 - 11:04 PM

#4

They worked for me! :thumbsup: I guess I can't remote link, if you need them I'll email them to you.

  • grayracer513

Posted March 05, 2006 - 11:32 PM

#5

I used the Light Speed plastic CR style fork guards, which have a stub built on for mounting the line (I used the OEM clamp from the axle lug). The left hand one of these guards wraps a little farther around the fork tube than the old YZ ones, keeping the line away from the upper tube's path of travel. I did have a problem with potential contact between the rotor and the line, so I drilled the inside edge of the guard an zip-tied the line up a little higher than it naturally wanted to sit.

  • flintlock28

Posted March 06, 2006 - 03:25 AM

#6

cowboyona426,

I couldn't access the photos (non-member of Kodak) anyway, what I mean is that I totally removed the forkguard guide (white plastic ring with tabs on it) so that the upper fork can't hit the oldblue clamp. But, now it looks like it's possible with a little movement, that when the fork fully compresses, it could crush the line (the line is almost touching the lower fork tube).

From what I can see, it looks like the brake line cannot touch the lower fork tube, or it will be grabbed by the upper fork tube coming down on it; and at the same time, you can't have it bent too far away from the lower fork tube because it could then contact the spokes....Is the trick to have the lower brake line equidistant from the lower fork tube and the spokes??

  • TimFurryBalls

Posted March 06, 2006 - 11:05 AM

#7

Remove your fork guard guide. You really don't need it and most people remove it anyway. I did on both my YZF's, no problems. No flex in the guards, no crushed or snapped plastics! Put your bike on the stand, forks fully extended, take up any slack in the brakeline, and tighten the clamp. If you have too much slack, then you run the risk of your line rubbing your tire or spokes when your forks compress. I've seen this countless times on other people's bikes. Do this and you'll be "golden".

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • oldblue

Posted March 06, 2006 - 01:47 PM

#8

Most remove the fork guard guides as you have done. I haven't heard of anyone having problems.

I'm not sure what you mean by rubbing on the fork tube. The line should not touch the upper fork tube at all. The rigid plastic sheath keeps the line stiff and with the clamp and the guide at the number plate nothing should touch the forks at all. Between the clamp and the brake caliper you want to make certain that the brake line is not too loose as to rub against the spokes. I recommend wire tieing the brake line to the bracket in a figure 8 to make certain that the line doesn't slip and allow the lower portion of the brake line to get into the spokes.

I left my phone number in a PM for you. Feel free to call me.

Bert

  • TimFurryBalls

Posted March 06, 2006 - 02:31 PM

#9

Oh look, it's "oldblue" back from Broke Back Mountain. . . ! :thumbsup:

  • grayracer513

Posted March 06, 2006 - 02:56 PM

#10

Oh look, it's "oldblue" back from Broke Back Mountain. . . ! :thumbsup:


Hey now..

  • oldblue

Posted March 06, 2006 - 03:07 PM

#11

Ohhh, my brother, where's the love? I only make comments where they add value and it can show my knowledge on the subject as you do as well.

I took the liberty of putting together a list of some of your clever and inspiring remarks below. Thank you for your contributions to the TT community, TFB!

---------------------------------

Here's one from TFB in the CRF forum...damn he has a way with words.

:bonk:

---------------------------------

Here's another one from the CRF forum...I almost cried when I saw your sensitivity

:bonk:

---------------------------------

Here's one of your better ones that really gave us some insight to what goes on in TFB's mind....

:thumbsup:

---------------------------------

Alright bro...I've had my fun. It's good to be back! :thumbsup:

  • flintlock28

Posted March 06, 2006 - 03:19 PM

#12

Thanks guys for the responses, I will also wire-ty the clamp to prevent any problems.
Don

  • TimFurryBalls

Posted March 06, 2006 - 03:32 PM

#13

So I guess we're flying in to Portland, driving to Seattle with you guys and driving back. Easier. Just gotta book flights now.

  • oldblue

Posted March 06, 2006 - 03:41 PM

#14

Let me know when you get your plans all set. When are you coming in and when are you flying out?





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