2006 YZ450 "after first ride" impressions.


56 replies to this topic
  • DSMotorsport

Posted March 05, 2006 - 06:33 AM

#21

Is the back is kicking side to side, you need to adjust your rebound damping, not your compression damping. Most likely you will need to increase it (slow down the rebound) so it doesn't kick you around. It's probably rebounding too quickly and causing this. On the other hand, it could be set to stiff and have a similar feeling, but if I had to guess, it probably needs to be increased. This should help a lot. Try a few clicks at atime and ride it in the same sections to see how it affects the handling. The bike should perform much better than your first experience. It's the best bike in it's class currently! :thumbsup:


I didn't play with the rebound as I was "tought" to only make one change at a time. changed the compression before the last practice. Also, the high speed compression on the shock wasn't touched. I think the high speed compression is the one that affects shart edge hits and accelleration bumps, while the low speed comp is more for jump landings.

If the suspension is going to break in some and smooth out, Im not going to put a ton of effort into playing with clickers untill I get some more hours on the bike.

  • DSMotorsport

Posted March 05, 2006 - 06:42 AM

#22

Why are you putting a 51 T sprocket on this bike? this is drastic and for ArenaCross. The 50 is a better choice, in my opinion. At slow speeds this bike will beat the hell out of you. You must back off the compression front and rear....soften it up DS. Once you get more comfortable with the bike you will go faster...then you will see how magic the suspension really is. :thumbsup:



I want to go to lower gearing so as I don't have to shift between first and second anymore. As the bike sat, with slow rider, poor jetting I coiudn't keep it running in 2nd in the tight turns where I almost come to a stop to make the inside burm. First seems to be too much acceleration and winds out too quick, but second would stall. Going to a 51 is only 2 teeth, Iv done it on most of the bikes I have owned. The whole point is to keep it out of 1st gear so it doesn't beat me up so much.

As I said before, I may not need the gearing change once the jetting is cleaned up and it runs right at low rpm/throttle. my corner speed will improve once I get the handling/egros to my liking. Both should help the slow corner stalling issue. Obviously I keep my original sprocket, if I don't like it, go back to stock.

  • dooweb2

Posted March 05, 2006 - 07:12 AM

#23

instead of going up on the rear try turning the idle up and then put a heavier flywheel weight on it .. thats what stops the bike from stallng not gearing..in my opinion.. by the way you could go down in the back making first more useable and tamer as well as pull longer before shifting into second.. I know how you feel about the stalling I rode an indoor track yesterday and wanted to stall it in every tight turn for me (sr c rider ) this bike is screaming for a flywheel weight... however the bike i rode was an hour old and the suspension was fantastic

  • Drfletcherdc

Posted March 05, 2006 - 07:24 AM

#24

I want to go to lower gearing so as I don't have to shift between first and second anymore. As the bike sat, with slow rider, poor jetting I coiudn't keep it running in 2nd in the tight turns where I almost come to a stop to make the inside burm. First seems to be too much acceleration and winds out too quick, but second would stall. Going to a 51 is only 2 teeth, Iv done it on most of the bikes I have owned. The whole point is to keep it out of 1st gear so it doesn't beat me up so much.

As I said before, I may not need the gearing change once the jetting is cleaned up and it runs right at low rpm/throttle. my corner speed will improve once I get the handling/egros to my liking. Both should help the slow corner stalling issue. Obviously I keep my original sprocket, if I don't like it, go back to stock.


Go with the 50T sprocket. On a track you should never be in first gear and second only in the rutted corners. The more hours you put on the bike the less stall prone it tends to be. Mine was stalling it seemed like every time I came to one of those corners, but lately I haven't noticed it. Plus, now it starts even cold on 1 or 2 kicks. This bike gets better with age. Also on the rebound, it was way too much for me from the factory. I don't like when my back ends gets kicked around or when I jump my feet gets lifted off the pegs. Go counterclockwise on the adjustment on the linkage 2 "clicks" and give that a try. That will also help your front end settle into the turns a little better.

  • Drfletcherdc

Posted March 05, 2006 - 07:27 AM

#25

the bike was handling that way because you have black backgrounds on a 450. The bike thinks you want it to be a 250F and it's confused.. :thumbsup:


If your talking to me, I have to run a black background in the WORCs race because of the class I am in. I can't stand either. I'm thinking about buying a whole new set of plastics just to change the numbers out. :thumbsup:

  • motobark

Posted March 05, 2006 - 09:34 AM

#26

I hope you don’t get offended by this, but the YZ450 wasn’t designed, built or setup for a rider like you. The target rider for the YZ450 is a 150-170lbs fast intermediate or expert motocrosser. I understand that not everyone that wants or buys a bike like this fits into that category, but if you don’t, you have to realize that you’ll have to make lots of changes and adjustments before it works for you. And it may never work perfectly for you.

For the target rider, it’s by far the best Yamaha has every made. If you go into berms at the top of 3rd gear, not 1st or 2nd, the bike will corner like it’s on rails. If you overjump an 80 foot tabletop you’ll be amazed at how the suspension handles it. If Doug Henry had suspension like this years ago, he might not have broken both his arms on that one he overjumped. If you go through huge whoops at full throttle going 50-60mph, the bike will take them without so much as a twitch, instead of kicking and bucking you off like bikes used to do. If you go through them at 10 or 20mph, you can’t expect the bike to work properly, that’s just not how it’s designed.

I know you can’t turn into a fast intermediate or expert overnight, and I know you can’t just change your body to fit into the target weight range. I’m just saying be a little more understanding with the bike and realize that it wasn’t built for the way you’re riding it. These bikes are made with a specific purpose and rider in mind, if you’re lucky enough to fit into that range, the bike is incredible right out of the box. (Except for that ridiculously lean pilot.)

Get the suspension closer to your liking and find someone that can help your riding skills improve so you'll be doing those turns and jumps faster and bigger. As that happens the bike will only work better for you.

  • DSMotorsport

Posted March 05, 2006 - 10:41 AM

#27

I hope you don’t get offended by this, but the YZ450 wasn’t designed, built or setup for a rider like you. The target rider for the YZ450 is a 150-170lbs fast intermediate or expert motocrosser. I understand that not everyone that wants or buys a bike like this fits into that category, but if you don’t, you have to realize that you’ll have to make lots of changes and adjustments before it works for you. And it may never work perfectly for you.

For the target rider, it’s by far the best Yamaha has every made. If you go into berms at the top of 3rd gear, not 1st or 2nd, the bike will corner like it’s on rails. If you overjump an 80 foot tabletop you’ll be amazed at how the suspension handles it. If Doug Henry had suspension like this years ago, he might not have broken both his arms on that one he overjumped. If you go through huge whoops at full throttle going 50-60mph, the bike will take them without so much as a twitch, instead of kicking and bucking you off like bikes used to do. If you go through them at 10 or 20mph, you can’t expect the bike to work properly, that’s just not how it’s designed.

I know you can’t turn into a fast intermediate or expert overnight, and I know you can’t just change your body to fit into the target weight range. I’m just saying be a little more understanding with the bike and realize that it wasn’t built for the way you’re riding it. These bikes are made with a specific purpose and rider in mind, if you’re lucky enough to fit into that range, the bike is incredible right out of the box. (Except for that ridiculously lean pilot.)

Get the suspension closer to your liking and find someone that can help your riding skills improve so you'll be doing those turns and jumps faster and bigger. As that happens the bike will only work better for you.



I completely agree with this and am not offended at all. Im very content being a slow novice rider, this is just a fun hobby and I don't take it too serious. I knew going in that all stock bikes are setup for lighter guys that are also significantly faster.

Making changes to the bike to get it to work for me is nothing bad in my book. I come from dragracing mitsubishi AWD Turbo cars, so Im used to having to change EVERYTHING, and setting this bike up to suit me is actually kinda fun.

I didn't make this post to complain about the bike. I made it to try and get some advise from people who might be in the same situation with a rider/bike that aren't syncing up well. Im sure after a little testing, setup, suspension adjustment I can get this bike to be just as rider friendly as my buddies CRF is.

I need to get the bike to work for me before my speed improves much though. Id say im 10% faster on my friends 05 CRF than my 06 YZF completely becuase I have conficence in the front wheel to go where I point it. Once I have conficence in the turning and get the suspension a bit ofter I think it will be literally and figurativly golden. The gearing/jetting is simple to work out, the handling feel is the tricky stuff IMHO.

  • NYMXer

Posted March 05, 2006 - 10:48 AM

#28

Your problem could simply be that too much rear sag takes a lot of weight off the front end. Bike set up is very important for your ridng safety and enjoyment.

I didn't take your original post as a complaint. It's nice that we can all post info here and get some helpful replies.

  • DSMotorsport

Posted March 05, 2006 - 10:53 AM

#29

Also...do any of you know if the clutch is the same between the 05 and 06 yzf450? Id also be interested in trying out a Rekluse auto clutch. From what I read in searchs here they make the bike a bit easier to ride and there are very few complaints, especially for novice riders. Rekluse doesn't show it available for 06 yzf's, only the WR450 in 06.

  • SureBlue

Posted March 05, 2006 - 11:59 AM

#30

04-06 share all the same Hinson components, so I think the clutch is the same.
Stalling issues can be solved by jetting it right and raising the idle. Gearing the rear sprocket taller will change the charasteristics of the bike towards nervous and tiring. I put 1 tooth taller front sprocket, which equals to some 3-4 less teeth in rear, and the bike still runs acceptable in tight stuff, I have not stalled it once. Stock gearing is not to blame on stalling issues. You could also try a heavier flywheel weight, if there already is one for the 06.
If you want a scooter, buy one. Having said that, I know many who like the Rekluse and you gotta do what you like. It's just my opinion that a bike has to have a clutch, so all Rekluse owners, relax. :thumbsup:
If you are looking to get an easier bike, maybe you picked up the wrong one from the beginning?
Rejet the bike, set the sag to 98 mm, raise the forks, back off 3 compression clicks, change the front tire and you got yourself a helluva bike. :thumbsup:

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  • DSMotorsport

Posted March 05, 2006 - 12:24 PM

#31

No, I don't want a scooter. Im not THAT slow. At Englishtown's track, I jump everything except one jump on last year's layout. Same with Atco's track (don't jump the giant tabletop or the finishline triple-thing).

Im not looking for a trials bike here, I just need it to turn right and absorb the small bumps, and not stall when rolling at 1/8 to 1/4 throttle in first gear. It's not impossible, becuase my friends CRF did all of this find for me.

The gearing is probobly not the problem, but I still want to change it so I don't ever have to cross over neutral on the racetrack. One tooth less on the front or -2.5 on the rear! Damn, your bike must go like 20mph in first gear? That seems strange to me, Im sure with one tooth less on my bike, Id be able to do every jump at Etown's practice track in either first of second gear and never touch 3-4-5. As it it 2nd gear goes fast enough to do all but probobly 2 jumps.

  • RAMARION

Posted March 05, 2006 - 02:51 PM

#32

Man your bike sounds like my 2006 250F wooo's......

my 06 450 is soo sweet.............my set up...........

756 tire, 100mm sag, standard comp & rebound

drop fork's down lower, mine are dropped equal distance below line as line is below cap??????? 2-3mm below line, about total 1/2" from cap.

man I know its not funny......but I sold a new 05 CRF450 after 5 rides, it rode & handled just like you have stated your YZ 450 rides.........my height/weight 5'10" 216.

Good Luck!!!!!!!!

  • RAMARION

Posted March 05, 2006 - 02:59 PM

#33

re: stalling issue

check your idle, thumpers run better with a higher idle setting. (less low speed stalling)

IMO, this bike does not need a heavier flywheel.

  • Satch0922

Posted March 05, 2006 - 04:44 PM

#34

If your talking to me, I have to run a black background in the WORCs race because of the class I am in. I can't stand either. I'm thinking about buying a whole new set of plastics just to change the numbers out. :thumbsup:


I wasn't referring to you. I understand your situation
:thumbsup:

  • PK

Posted March 05, 2006 - 08:10 PM

#35

Nate, the suspension will break in after a few hours, until then just go out on the compression clickers. My bike's rear end was bouncing around quite a bit on my first ride and I went in 3 clicks eventually on the shock's rebound to slow it down and it made a big difference. Give the suspension some time to break in and it will help the cornering as well since the forks will settle going to corners a bit more than they do now, this will increase the rake and make the bike turn better. I personally had no problem with the 739 front tire, but that's not to say the 756 isn't better, I just think coming from an 03 YZ450 I was really use to using a lot of body english to get the bike to turn. I will say the suspension was incredible as I overshot a jump and when I was in the air I knew it was going to be a hard landing and the bike just sucked it up, on my 03 I would have been nursing a couple of sore ankles at best. I've only got 2 hours on my bike as well, so just keep an eye on the sag, install the 48 pilot because it is really distracting when your bike won't idle and I'm sure that didn't help you to get use to the new bike, and back the compression clickers out more to your liking until things break in a bit more. I understand what your doing with the gearing change but you would get use to the stock gearing if you get your suspension & idling issues under control. Good luck,

Pat

  • DSMotorsport

Posted March 05, 2006 - 08:38 PM

#36

Nate, the suspension will break in after a few hours, until then just go out on the compression clickers. My bike's rear end was bouncing around quite a bit on my first ride and I went in 3 clicks eventually on the shock's rebound to slow it down and it made a big difference. Give the suspension some time to break in and it will help the cornering as well since the forks will settle going to corners a bit more than they do now, this will increase the rake and make the bike turn better. I personally had no problem with the 739 front tire, but that's not to say the 756 isn't better, I just think coming from an 03 YZ450 I was really use to using a lot of body english to get the bike to turn. I will say the suspension was incredible as I overshot a jump and when I was in the air I knew it was going to be a hard landing and the bike just sucked it up, on my 03 I would have been nursing a couple of sore ankles at best. I've only got 2 hours on my bike as well, so just keep an eye on the sag, install the 48 pilot because it is really distracting when your bike won't idle and I'm sure that didn't help you to get use to the new bike, and back the compression clickers out more to your liking until things break in a bit more. I understand what your doing with the gearing change but you would get use to the stock gearing if you get your suspension & idling issues under control. Good luck,

Pat



Ya..Im going to give it another go this weekend with stock gearing. Weather is going to be nice. I should have the jetting fixed and idle set. Last weekend with the stock pilot jet, no adjustment of the idle would keep it running without throttle.

Going to really work on setting up the suspension and riding it harder next time. hopefully Ill get along better with it after all the changes and better setup.

  • PK

Posted March 06, 2006 - 05:13 AM

#37

Don't hurt yourself tryin' to be Bubba out there...

  • stknrdr

Posted March 06, 2006 - 08:49 AM

#38

I hope you don’t get offended by this, but the YZ450 wasn’t designed, built or setup for a rider like you. The target rider for the YZ450 is a 150-170lbs fast intermediate or expert motocrosser. I understand that not everyone that wants or buys a bike like this fits into that category, but if you don’t, you have to realize that you’ll have to make lots of changes and adjustments before it works for you. And it may never work perfectly for you.

For the target rider, it’s by far the best Yamaha has every made. If you go into berms at the top of 3rd gear, not 1st or 2nd, the bike will corner like it’s on rails. If you overjump an 80 foot tabletop you’ll be amazed at how the suspension handles it. If Doug Henry had suspension like this years ago, he might not have broken both his arms on that one he overjumped. If you go through huge whoops at full throttle going 50-60mph, the bike will take them without so much as a twitch, instead of kicking and bucking you off like bikes used to do. If you go through them at 10 or 20mph, you can’t expect the bike to work properly, that’s just not how it’s designed.

I know you can’t turn into a fast intermediate or expert overnight, and I know you can’t just change your body to fit into the target weight range. I’m just saying be a little more understanding with the bike and realize that it wasn’t built for the way you’re riding it. These bikes are made with a specific purpose and rider in mind, if you’re lucky enough to fit into that range, the bike is incredible right out of the box. (Except for that ridiculously lean pilot.)

Get the suspension closer to your liking and find someone that can help your riding skills improve so you'll be doing those turns and jumps faster and bigger. As that happens the bike will only work better for you.



This is great stuff...Im having some of the same issues with my new bike...and this pretty much sums up why...now ive just got to decide how to set it up. Im an older guy 36....6'0 and 230 lbs....and I would say im an intermediate rider...not slow...but not super fast either....i certainly dont do whoops at 60 mph. I do mine in the bottom half of 3rd gear, however fast that is. I too was wondering why this awesome suspension that ive been reading about seemed so harsh to me..well...its because this sucker is set up for supercross style jumps...so it stands to reason that even with my heavy ass on there I would need to back out on the clickies some. I havent had the problem with cornering though...i just put my 230 up on the tank and she hangs right in there

Thanks for the insight. :thumbsup:

  • motobark

Posted March 06, 2006 - 11:51 AM

#39

This is great stuff...Im having some of the same issues with my new bike...and this pretty much sums up why...now ive just got to decide how to set it up. Im an older guy 36....6'0 and 230 lbs....and I would say im an intermediate rider...not slow...but not super fast either....i certainly dont do whoops at 60 mph. I do mine in the bottom half of 3rd gear, however fast that is. I too was wondering why this awesome suspension that ive been reading about seemed so harsh to me..well...its because this sucker is set up for supercross style jumps...so it stands to reason that even with my heavy ass on there I would need to back out on the clickies some. I havent had the problem with cornering though...i just put my 230 up on the tank and she hangs right in there

Thanks for the insight. :thumbsup:



No problem, glad to help. I should clear something up though. When I mentioned "Intermediate Rider" I was referring to Motocross classes. An Intermediate MX'r is one step below an Expert, which is one step below a Pro. In other words, Intermediate motocrossers are pretty damn fast. Most Intermediate MXr's would be in the "A" class in Hare Scrambles or Enduros.

  • DSMotorsport

Posted March 06, 2006 - 12:24 PM

#40

I ordered a rekluse autoclutch today as well as the perch adjuster and longer cable. I decided to sit on the gearing change for another week. Hopefully this will help me with the stalling/cornering a bit with one less thing to deal with.





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