Partial Mods?!


22 replies to this topic
  • boer

Posted February 22, 2006 - 07:02 AM

#1

I got my PMB insert, JD kit and Zipty screw today :eek: :bonk:

I am still waiting for the Yamaha GYTR AIS kit though with the additional pilot jet and YZ throttle stop:thumbsdn: :eek:

I can't resist the temptation to start with the mods though. :bonk: Should I wait or can I go ahead and do the AIS and pilot and YZ throttle stop later when it arrives? Will the bike run fine on just the PMB, JD kit and zipty for the time being?? :thumbsup:

I plan to do the grey wire, snorkel and install twin air filter when I do the JD kit, zipty screw and PMB insert.

I ride at nearly sea level and max 500ft with temperature range of 70 -100degF.

I hope you guys can advise me accordingly :bonk: :thumbsup:

  • boer

Posted February 22, 2006 - 10:20 PM

#2

Any advice for me? :thumbsup:

  • Birdy426

Posted February 22, 2006 - 10:40 PM

#3

Absolutely do the PMB and fuel screw. If your WR runs ok off the bottom and starts alright now, I would do the JD kit along with the twin air and opening up the airbox as well, and just cut the throttle stop till the yz one arrives. If, though, you have a lot of popping on decel, hard starting, etc, you may want to wait on the airbox and filter till you get the AIS kit, assuming the extra pilot jets are bigger...

As it gets warmer and more humid there, you may need to lean the jetting out a little as well. The big swings in temps you experience between winter and supper make it hard to maintain clean jetting year around without s lot of "diddling"

  • OneToGo

Posted February 22, 2006 - 10:52 PM

#4

Here's my take; the Guys in the US wont see this until tomorrow, different time zones you know...

Any advice for me? :thumbsup:


JD kit along with fuel screw and new pilot is to get the carb set up. Ideally you willl want to have completed some run-in so that full throttle (loaded) runs are no problems. Also put in the pilot (48) at the same time - you may have to wait for the GYTR kit for that.
To successfully dial every thing in the PMB should be on for gas flow and the entire intake side should be sorted; (airbox mods, filters etc) otherwise, no point jetting. Also, to get the right ignition map the grey wire should be pulled.
So, thats:
1. full intake mods,
2. carb jetting including pilot 48, main 168?, needle (JD) a/r set to dbase figs.
3. all exhaust mods complete and
4. ignition set.
While you are at it, I suggest you put in a new plug, some say the NGK Iridium CR8EIX is the go (I'm not arguing this).

With the aboe done there is no added variable that will subsequently affect your jetting so you have something to work from.
In your case, I would wait for the GYTR AIS kit to get your 48 pilot. BTW, Ballards in AUS sell pilots at around AUD 7 each. That is where I got mine to go with the TT AIS kit. Yeah the TT AIS is not much for $35, I've seen the posts, but I'm not revisiting that!!
The AIS removal is not essential to the above process of getting the jetting dialed in. Just expect some back fire on decel unless you have blanked the AIS off somehow. Dont try to dial it out as yet.
FYI, The fulll heat of the DXB summer is on the way so you may have to lean out the main (to 165 stock) and go with the JD Red needle soon as the temps rise.
Hong Kong is the same (but cooler) so we will have to do likewise here, temps are around 20C at present. Indy's Jetting Dbase is where I'll be starting for any changes. Hope this helps, see what others have to say...
Happy (sand) riding :thumbsup:
Colin

  • WheelsUp

Posted February 22, 2006 - 11:07 PM

#5

Here's my take; the Guys in the US wont see this until tomorrow, different time zones you know...

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
It was already "tomorrow" when he posted :bonk:

Anyways, ya... by all means, do all of the "free" mods as soon as practical.
Soon after, you'll want to take care of the jetting, as these bikes are typically lean from the factory. The low elevation makes this worse, though high temperatures will help you a bit.

I'm not a huge fan of eliminating the AIS.
Yes, it cleans up the look of the bike, but I have yet to hear from anyone that it made a noticeable difference in performance. Other than appearance, the biggest reason that I've seen to eliminate it is that it can make proper jetting difficult due to popping on decel.
Personally, I don't use decel performance as a gauge for my jetting.

The other problem is that with the greenie laws getting to be what they are, there is a very real possibility that we may be subjected to smog testing at some time in the future. If that happens, those who have done easily detectable mods such as the AIS may have some problems.

Yes, I understand that jetting and the grey wire and the YZ cam all impact emissions, but they are not going to be caught on a quick visual inspection.
Call me paranoid, but I've dealt with the California CARB/EPA crap all of my life on street vehicles.

  • WR_Dave

Posted February 23, 2006 - 05:09 AM

#6

Do a stealth disable of the AIS by shoving a plug down the the small vacuum line and then put the line back on. Looks stock but won't work.WR Dave

  • Matty05

Posted February 23, 2006 - 06:39 AM

#7

I'm not a huge fan of eliminating the AIS.
Yes, it cleans up the look of the bike, but I have yet to hear from anyone that it made a noticeable difference in performance. Other than appearance, the biggest reason that I've seen to eliminate it is that it can make proper jetting difficult due to popping on decel.
Personally, I don't use decel performance as a gauge for my jetting.

The other problem is that with the greenie laws getting to be what they are, there is a very real possibility that we may be subjected to smog testing at some time in the future. If that happens, those who have done easily detectable mods such as the AIS may have some problems.

Yes, I understand that jetting and the grey wire and the YZ cam all impact emissions, but they are not going to be caught on a quick visual inspection.
Call me paranoid, but I've dealt with the California CARB/EPA crap all of my life on street vehicles.

This is why EFI is the future! (already beaten to death!!!!) :thumbsup:

  • odonnks

Posted February 23, 2006 - 09:10 AM

#8

I was wondering about some of the same as Boer.
Is thee a perfered or 'safe' order to perfome the free mods?
Silencer
Air Box
Throtle stop
Gray Wire

After the Silencer, airbox and t-stop, it seem that it would run a good bit more lean. And if they come lean from the factory is is it OK to run this way with out a jet change? OR is teh jet change a requirement after these three mods?

Thanks

  • BLUE4STROKE

Posted February 23, 2006 - 10:35 AM

#9

Hey if this will help anyone on here then great. Simply take a small marble and stuff the thing in the main rubber hose and the AIS will no longer give you anymore popping problems. I no it does look cleaner to remove. Unfortunately living in Cali down the road they one day may be catching on to the AIS removal.

  • boer

Posted February 23, 2006 - 12:05 PM

#10

To save time and really appreciate all, I think I may do everything at once :thumbsup:

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  • WheelsUp

Posted February 23, 2006 - 09:36 PM

#11

I would strongly recommend a rejet with the free mods. At the very least, you want to lower the needle clip by one groove to fatten up the mids and open the fuel screw up.
Unfortunately, for the "green" WR's, this means removing the bowl to punch out the washer that blocks access to the fuel screw, and purchasing the needle from an '04 (or '05 250F) since they are not adjustable on the "green" bikes

At this point, it's smarter just to invest the $60 in the JD kit and another $10 or so in a larger pilot and smaller leak jet.

  • boer

Posted February 24, 2006 - 08:17 AM

#12

To save time and really appreciate all, I think I may do everything at once :thumbsup:


The temptation was to great :eek: I could not wait a second longer.

Today I did:
-Installed PMB insert
-Removed the airbox snorkel but left the side cover in tact
-Removed gray wire

Tomorrow I plan on doing the throttle stop by cutting it shorter and install the JD kit and Zipty fuel screw :bonk:

I am still abit uncertain of what jetting to use. :bonk: This is what I had in mind:
-Zipty screw about 2 turns out, will dial it in though once running
-JD red needle in the 4th clip from top? Is this right?
-165 main jet? Is this right?
-Stock pilot jet
-AIS in tack or plugged if someone can give me some suggestions??

Current temperatures are about 75 - 85 degF and altitude is less than 350 feet. I have the 06WR450.

What do you experts think, am I heading in the right direction???? :bonk: Thanks for the help so far :thumbsup:

  • WheelsUp

Posted February 24, 2006 - 08:50 AM

#13

JD's setting suggestions based on altitude/temperature are pretty good, so you'll do okay to follow them.

I tried the ACV both ways. No difference in performance, and the only time I had problems with a hanging idle was when the bottom end was lean (stock pilot and fuel screw). Disabling the ACV will worsen popping on decel, so if noise is an issue, I'd leave it alone.

  • boer

Posted February 24, 2006 - 09:02 AM

#14

The JD guide says 170 Main and red needle. I will try the 4th clip from top.

Any objections or alternate advice from anyone? :thumbsup:

  • boer

Posted February 25, 2006 - 08:35 AM

#15

Well, all I can say now is ohhhhh my goodness :bonk: :bonk: :eek:

The bike is transformed!! It's amazing :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

I went with the red needle 4th clip and 170 main.

I don't know if it's right though. It feels very strong but I am not sure whether it's right.

The zipty instructions say to flip the throtle! Is that just a bit or a quick full throttle blip. If I blip it maybe 1/4 it's fine but if I blip it full throttle it duys on me. Furthermore when I turn the screw and blip the throttle a little 1/4 I don't see a notiecable difference.

Is there any way to test all three (fuel screw for pilot), needle for half throttle and main for full throtle) if they are at the correct setting. I just want to make sure it's right. These are my current settings:

Model: 2006 WR450
Timing (WR-YZ): Grey wire cut
Main jet: #170
Pilot Jet: Standard
Leak Jet: standard
Fuel screw (turns out): 1 3/4 , Zip TY
Needle model/Clip position: JD Red #4 position
Airbox: side still on snorkel out.
Filter: Stock/ Twinair
Pipe: Stock w/ PMB insert
AIS still on
Throttle screw is shortened to YZ length
Altitude where you ride: sealevel to 350 feet
Temperature where you ride: Now 75-85 Deg F

Please could you guys have a look and give me some advice? :bonk:

  • WheelsUp

Posted February 25, 2006 - 10:10 AM

#16

Well, all I can say now is ohhhhh my goodness :bonk: :eek: :eek:

The bike is transformed!! It's amazing :bonk: :bonk:

:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
That's everyone's reaction :lol:

If I blip it maybe 1/4 it's fine but if I blip it full throttle it duys on me.

The stock leak jet must have been designed for 15,000ft or something... it's WAAAY too lean and should be cut down to a #40. Some guys in extremely cold climates actually solder it shut, but that's probably too much for the UAE.
Don't ask you dealer for a #40 leak jet... he'll look at you like a confused puppy. Just give them a part number and say "I want one of these"

4JT-1494F-03-00

It screws into the bottom of the bowl next to the drain plug.

Pilot Jet: Standard

Probably want to go up one step from stock on the pilot and the ZipTy will probably be in the ballpark at 1.5-2 turns.

  • boer

Posted February 25, 2006 - 11:31 PM

#17

Thanks WheelsUP :thumbsup:

What will the smaller leak jet do and how?

I have also noticed that the exhaust pipe has slightly more black deposits than normal. I also see most folks at near sea level altitude and moderate temps are using the 168 main jet even with aftermarket pipes? Even with the AIS still installed I get hardly any popping on deceleration? Am I maybe running a bit rich?:thumbsup:

  • WheelsUp

Posted February 25, 2006 - 11:39 PM

#18

What will the smaller leak jet do and how?

For details, check out www.thumperfaq.com and research the accelerator pump.
Short story, a smaller leak jet causes a longer (richer) accelerator pump shot, which helps reduce "the bog".
It's nearly impossible to completely eliminate "the bog" when the bike is in neutral on the stand, but it is possible to reduce it to the point that it won't kill the engine in real-world situations.

Am I maybe running a bit rich?:thumbsup:

Could be. My personal feeling is I'd rather be a bit rich than smoke a piston. Plugs and a few extra gallons of fuel a year are cheap. Though it's not likely that you'll be rich enough to foul a plug, it wouldn't hurt to check plug color after a few hours. Some riders are harder on the engine and might need to be a little richer, while "cruisers" can afford to be a little leaner.

  • boer

Posted February 25, 2006 - 11:51 PM

#19

Cheers WheelsUp

I wil study the FAQ link, it looks excellent.

I agree with you, rather richer than leaner. :thumbsup:

  • imj75

Posted March 14, 2006 - 03:37 AM

#20

Hey Boer
Do you know what the Transvaal is?




 
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