Recomendations on Rear Sprocket Size?


29 replies to this topic
  • twenty34

Posted February 16, 2006 - 08:05 PM

#1

Any thoughts on what size rear sprocket I should go to on my 06 WR 450? Stock is 50 teeth, which is fine for the desert, but I'm thinking that going up a few teeth may help on motocross tracks that tend to be tighter, where I can use the lower end more.

Any thoughts?

  • clark4131

Posted February 16, 2006 - 08:48 PM

#2

I wouldn't mess with the rear sprocket, as I found that can result in clearance issues with the chain guide, as well as needing more links in the chain itself...result: more money, big pain in the :thumbsup:. I put a 13-tooth Ironman countershaft sprocket on my '05, and Boy Howdy, did that make a huge difference. There was a guy on eBay selling them a few days ago for around $20, but you can get them all day at Quality Smart for around $27 + shipping...SC

  • twenty34

Posted February 16, 2006 - 09:01 PM

#3

when you say made a big difference, what did you notice and how much top end speed was sacrificed? Using a 13 in the front gives a different ratio than going up two teeth in the rear.

Thanks.

I wouldn't mess with the rear sprocket, as I found that can result in clearance issues with the chain guide, as well as needing more links in the chain itself...result: more money, big pain in the :thumbsup:. I put a 13-tooth Ironman countershaft sprocket on my '05, and Boy Howdy, did that make a huge difference. There was a guy on eBay selling them a few days ago for around $20, but you can get them all day at Quality Smart for around $27 + shipping...SC



  • NuckingFuts

Posted February 16, 2006 - 09:35 PM

#4

Not sure if the 426 has more/less chain clearance when changin up but I LOVE my 52T rear from Ironman.

  • clark4131

Posted February 16, 2006 - 09:43 PM

#5

Dropping one tooth in the front is roughly equivalent to going up three in the rear. I've never had my bike pinned in 5th gear (lots of singletrack), so I have no idea how much it detracted from the top end. I do know that I can ride a gear higher than I could with the 14t. I have no problem lofting the front end over rocks, logs, etc in 2nd or 3rd gear, which was a problem at 5500'+ASL. I run a TM Designworks guide and would have had major chain clearance issues with more than a 1-tooth increase on the rear cog...SC

  • twenty34

Posted February 16, 2006 - 09:52 PM

#6

ok, interesting...While I agree the changing out the front is gonna be the more cost-effective route, no doubt. I was only looking at adding 2 teeth in the rear as I'm thinking that 3 may be more than I want (or 1 down in the front).

Thanks for the input. I'll have to think about what I may do. :thumbsup:

Dropping one tooth in the front is roughly equivalent to going up three in the rear. I've never had my bike pinned in 5th gear (lots of singletrack), so I have no idea how much it detracted from the top end. I do know that I can ride a gear higher than I could with the 14t. I have no problem lofting the front end over rocks, logs, etc in 2nd or 3rd gear, which was a problem at 5500'+ASL. I run a TM Designworks guide and would have had major chain clearance issues with more than a 1-tooth increase on the rear cog...SC



  • twenty34

Posted February 16, 2006 - 09:52 PM

#7

thanks! :thumbsup:

Not sure if the 426 has more/less chain clearance when changin up but I LOVE my 52T rear from Ironman.



  • jerryls

Posted February 16, 2006 - 09:59 PM

#8

Clark- What does running the 13-tooth do to your first gear? My first gear is almost useless with the stock gearing, I can't imagine what it would be like with even lower gearing :thumbsup: .

Jerry

  • twenty34

Posted February 16, 2006 - 10:06 PM

#9

That's a good question. My 1st is fairly useless in stock form as well.

Clark- What does running the 13-tooth do to your first gear? My first gear is almost useless with the stock gearing, I can't imagine what it would be like with even lower gearing :thumbsup: .

Jerry



  • clark4131

Posted February 16, 2006 - 10:08 PM

#10

The 13-tooth lowered my gearing drastically, but you have to remember I'm likely at a much higher elevation than you. I have a 14-tooth in my little box of goodies that I can pop on if and when I get to a lower elevation and have an increase in power. When I'm in DG sandy conditions though, I do tend to start in 2nd, but it's nice to have when I want to get over obstacles in a hurry...SC

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  • J_DOGG

Posted February 17, 2006 - 07:30 AM

#11

I have no problem lofting the front end over rocks, logs, etc in 2nd or 3rd gear, which was a problem at 5500'+ASL.


Your bike wasn't able to do that stock?
Have you done the free mods?

  • SJMC_DON

Posted February 17, 2006 - 07:42 AM

#12

I ride primarily tight and technical and the 13T front is the way to go :thumbsup: I'd even go as far as saying that it is a good set up for the MX track.

It's cost effective and easier to change out than the rear, (If you have an impact gun).

I still can reach 65 - 70 on the top end.......

  • clark4131

Posted February 17, 2006 - 07:45 AM

#13

I have all the free mods done and every other go fast goodie known to man, but at my elevation, 1st gear was the only one that would lift the front end at will. 2nd and 3rd required a lot of clutch, and in tight singletrack with obstacles, that was often extremely difficult. The 13-tooth cured it...SC

  • Pukeballs

Posted February 17, 2006 - 09:48 AM

#14

If your going to change the front sprocket, you should change the back and chain as well.

  • clark4131

Posted February 17, 2006 - 10:15 AM

#15

If your going to change the front sprocket, you should change the back and chain as well.

It's not that critical if you have only a few miles on the bike. I threw my new countershaft on with around 800 miles on the bike and I've had no problems with accelerated wear...SC

  • old man dan

Posted February 17, 2006 - 01:29 PM

#16

13 X 50 is almost exactly equal to 14 X 54 so I was thinking of going to a 14 X 52. 13 front seems extreme although I know alot of you guys have done it. I ride a lot of low speed 1st 2nd 3rd type terrain at 500 to 1500 ft. Don't really care about top speed but don't want to make 1st useless. I looked at chaon guide claerance and it seems OK. any one tried this? Comments?

  • clark4131

Posted February 17, 2006 - 01:44 PM

#17

I looked at a 52 rear as well and it was very rubby with my TMD guide. Plus, I didn't want to add any links to my chain...SC

  • jobstress

Posted February 17, 2006 - 02:31 PM

#18

13 50 is the way to go for me.

  • mtrablue

Posted February 17, 2006 - 03:47 PM

#19

it's all a matter of setting your bike up for your conditions and or the track you ride. most hardcore moto guys carry a couple sets of rear sprockets. one tooth either way affects how (or when) your bike will be shifted on certain parts of a track or trail. i am running 14/52 on my '03 and like it a lot. there always seemed to be a bit of a gap between 2nd and 3rd with the stock 50 rear. 1st gear? it's pretty low now. no big deal. some times you need it when you busting brush trying to figure out where that old trail went to. you do have to watch the chain guide. i filed out the rear two holes on the guide to let it drop down some in relation to the sprocket. right now the midwest is cold and muddy ( i rode last weekend and it was 25 and snowing ) and the 14/52 combo was spot on.

  • eldrapo

Posted February 19, 2006 - 07:19 PM

#20

here is a great chart to get your final drive ratio exactactly where you want it.



http://www.sv1000.in...atios_chart.htm




 
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