XR650L Electical system capability


13 replies to this topic
  • Phuzzy McPhuzzface

Posted February 15, 2006 - 06:41 AM

#1

Does anyone know the load-bearing capacity of the stock XR650L electical system?

I know adding power points/terminals for GPS or ChatterBox radios are of no consequence volt/amperage-wise, but what about auxiliary lighting for nighttime trail/adventure riding? Something along the lines of this: Aux Lights

Basically, can the 650L stock system handle an additional 50-100w of load, without it being an overload?

  • goblin127

Posted February 15, 2006 - 06:52 AM

#2

I once asked if the 650L could handle electric vest with sleeves, and I was told no.

  • Phuzzy McPhuzzface

Posted February 15, 2006 - 07:12 AM

#3

I once asked if the 650L could handle electric vest with sleeves, and I was told no.


Hmmmm...I was hoping there was some headroom on the system capacity.

Anyone modify it to accomodate more load? I have seen many stators that have "vacant" poles that could be manually wound/epoxied.

Anyone? Bueller? :thumbsup:

  • HappyCurmudgeon

Posted February 15, 2006 - 09:08 AM

#4

I do not know what the capacity is, but I to am curious if anyone has figured it out. I am working on putting an accesory outlet for a GPS and dual headlights on my '06 650L (just for a winter project because I have to have something to do) I contacted Baja Designs (who never returned my emails at all) and Ricky Stator hoping they might have some info on the stock stator. Below is the text of the response i received from Ricky Stator.

[COLOR=Navy]"We do not make a stator for that model simply because they do not fail and there is no real major call for that model...

Now....to determine WHAT you can run is quite simple really...

1) Makes sure the battery is good and charged right....
2) Read the voltage at the battery terminals. Say 13 volts is the number
3) Start the engine with about 2000 rpm held........
4) Read the voltage at the battery terminals....says it is 14.5........
5) Now load (apply lights and whatever you wish to run) one piece at a time....
6) Once the voltage gets to the original voltage, say 13 volts you add all the loads to determine what your output is......
7) Now you know what the stator makes for power....
8) Use less than this amount to keep the battery charged...


That should do it for you!
Let me know how it goes for you!

Thanks-Ricky"
[/COLOR]

I have not tried this procedure to see what happens, nor do i know for sure if it is the correct procedure, but it seems to make sense to me.

Hope this helps you.

If & when I get to work on my side project again I will try to remember to post my results.

  • TREADMARKS

Posted February 15, 2006 - 12:59 PM

#5

ha

pretty cool :thumbsup:

  • HappyCurmudgeon

Posted February 15, 2006 - 01:44 PM

#6

ha

pretty cool :thumbsup:



ha? :thumbsup:

  • TREADMARKS

Posted February 15, 2006 - 02:48 PM

#7

ha? :thumbsup:


Sorry...


I think the letter from Ricky Stator was pretty cool.

Not just the instructions-but the fact that shared the info to help.




We do not make a stator for that model simply because they do not fail and there is no real major call for that model...

Now....to determine WHAT you can run is quite simple really...

1) Makes sure the battery is good and charged right....
2) Read the voltage at the battery terminals. Say 13 volts is the number
3) Start the engine with about 2000 rpm held........
4) Read the voltage at the battery terminals....says it is 14.5........
5) Now load (apply lights and whatever you wish to run) one piece at a time....
6) Once the voltage gets to the original voltage, say 13 volts you add all the loads to determine what your output is......
7) Now you know what the stator makes for power....
8) Use less than this amount to keep the battery charged...


That should do it for you!
Let me know how it goes for you!

Thanks-Ricky"

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • HappyCurmudgeon

Posted February 15, 2006 - 02:55 PM

#8

Yes, it was cool. I appreciate the help/guidance immensely. They could have just said: "No, we dont carry one for that model" or they could have just ignored me like Baja Designs did.

But they chose to take 2 minutes to help instead of just blowing me off. Nice change of pace. kudos to them :thumbsup:

  • HappyCurmudgeon

Posted February 15, 2006 - 03:40 PM

#9

Hey Treadmarks, I like your headlight setup btw.

Did you have any issues wiring it up? Did you splice into the existing harness or use plugs in some way? I read that you did some physical reflector mods, I shouldn’t need to do that as I am using factory parts, however I'm fitting up a double headlight assembly & was curious of any pitfalls you may have encountered electrically.

The last time I tossed in a car stereo, I got a new plug for a few bucks to fit the factory harness and wired off of the downside of that. I figured that way if I fekkered it up I could just unplug my rats nest and plug the old one back in without hassles. No damaged original wiring.

I was wondering if that approach was even possible with this application? I am currently just fiddling with the physical mounting, not the electrons. I have not even looked at the physical factory wiring, just the schematic.

I glanced over the wiring schematic, hooking it up looks pretty basic, high beam / low beam should be relatively simple, if not downright easy as long as I can fab up a wiring harness that Y’s out to both lights off of the existing plug. This would be ideal as I could use my plug approach and not hack factory wiring.

ANYWHOOO I am babbling. If you have any input I would love to hear it!

Thanks!

H.C.

  • chicagobikefan

Posted February 15, 2006 - 05:12 PM

#10

I just did some work on the electrical system of my XR650L. Be sure you get an XR650L manual from Honda to get the wiring diagram. The power for the headlights goes from a battery connection through the starter switch, then to the hi/lo beam switch, then to the headlights. If you hook up too much of an amp draw through that circuit, you might fry the contacts of the starter switch, which would be a very bad thing. I recommend a separate circuit from the battery with an appropriate fuse before it ever leaves the battery box. And for heaven's sake be sure you solder and shrink-wrap ALL of your connections because our big thumpers sure would like to vibrate apart any other type of connection, most likely at midnight as we're going through a water crossing.

And, by the way, the previous post regarding an informal test to find charging system capacity sounds good to me.

  • goblin127

Posted February 16, 2006 - 06:16 AM

#11

Let us know how you make out on the twin head lights.

  • sorenlaf

Posted February 16, 2006 - 08:39 AM

#12

--snip

1: If you hook up too much of an amp draw through that circuit, you might fry the contacts of the starter switch, which would be a very bad thing. I recommend a separate circuit from the battery with an appropriate fuse before it ever leaves the battery box.

2: And for heaven's sake be sure you solder and shrink-wrap ALL of your connections because our big thumpers sure would like to vibrate apart any other type of connection, most likely at midnight as we're going through a water crossing.


I hope you excuse my editing above, but those are both excellent suggestions.

Item 1:

You can add a relay if you want to retain the stock switches. I did this to one of my street bikes when I realized the headlight were run through the ignition switch (and I'd been running a 130watt high beam - shudder...).

Item 2:

I generally make a strong physical contact between two wires, and the put two layers of shrink wrap over it.

I then follow up with the S'n'S (stretch and stick?) "tape." This stuff is great, when you're done, it looks like a factory wrap job and it *never* weeps glue.

For a dirt bike, I would actually go one step farther (yeah, I'm neurotic) and use some of the paint on (tape in a can) wire isulation under the shrink tubing.


--Soren

  • HappyCurmudgeon

Posted February 16, 2006 - 10:39 AM

#13

Thanks for the pointers!

i certainly dont want to cook anything!

  • TREADMARKS

Posted February 16, 2006 - 01:32 PM

#14

Hey Treadmarks, I like your headlight setup btw.

Did you have any issues wiring it up? Did you splice into the existing harness or use plugs in some way? I read that you did some physical reflector mods, I shouldn’t need to do that as I am using factory parts, however I'm fitting up a double headlight assembly & was curious of any pitfalls you may have encountered electrically.

If you have any input I would love to hear it!

Thanks!

H.C.


Howdy Happy,

Thanks for the kudos, I dig the big light (aka deathray) as well. :thumbsup:

Yes, I had some issues with my connections.

Everything everyone else mentioned is good stuff as well. The factory wiring has the switch under direct load, and the wires are too small to support an improvement in wattage.

This is what I did: I ran a new #12 fine flexible hot (fused) wire from the battery to the ignition switch (+). And ground wire from the battery to a new grounding point behind the headlight. I added an additional ground strap from the motor to the frame, and from the frame to the (-) battery post. I also ran a #12 wire from the ignition switch (ON) to the load side of a normally open headlight relay. I used the relay to support the load, and the factory switch to control only the relay. I can send you some drawings if you like. What is important is that you have a good solid ground, the relay supports the load, all your load wires (including their grounds) are #12 and all your connections are solid and well insulated.

Or you can just call these guys for the drop in option! :thumbsup:

I also replaced my factory blinker relay with new solid state variable load unit which allowed me to use hyper LEDs for tail lights and blinkers, which means more power to the deathray!

Good luck.

Long live the deathray! :bonk:





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