whats better - Falicon or Carillo con rods


15 replies to this topic
  • rmhrc630

Posted February 08, 2006 - 12:40 PM

#1

which is a better conrod?

are both the same - or do they differ is so far as allowing the bike to rev quicker by being lighter?

(XR628)

  • snaggleXR650

Posted February 08, 2006 - 01:25 PM

#2

Both are supposed to be much better than stock in strength. The Falicon has a blade type design. On a low RPM motor like an XR, you won't see any difference. At 12-15,000 RPM you might see something. You'll just have a stronger con rod that you won't have to worry about breaking.

  • rmhrc630

Posted February 08, 2006 - 02:00 PM

#3

thanks snaggle

is any particular brand more often used than the other?

  • roadcam

Posted February 08, 2006 - 02:37 PM

#4

CARILLO is an old familar name to drag racers, etc ... been around since the 1950s, at least ... very good reputation :thumbsup:

  • Boy Honda

Posted February 09, 2006 - 07:04 AM

#5

Can I ask why you are replacing your Con Rod?

  • snaggleXR650

Posted February 09, 2006 - 10:55 AM

#6

I've heard that the con rod can become a weak spot when going with over bores and/or higher compression than stock. More forces at work. Not to mention the bearing conditions of the stock con rod assuming you already have some miles on your engine. If you are going into your engine, it would be a good idea to pay attention to the con rod and bearings among other things. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.

  • rmhrc630

Posted February 09, 2006 - 12:22 PM

#7

Can I ask why you are replacing your Con Rod?


I'm adding electric start to my HRC engine XR628 and that is going to involve replacing the XR600 crankshaft so I figured why not replace the conrod while I'm down there. http://i26.photobuck...k2/136_3634.jpg

so has anyone any definitive view of which is a better conrod - falicon or carillo?

are both lighter than stock? (meaning bike should rev quicker?)

  • Boy Honda

Posted February 09, 2006 - 01:29 PM

#8

Gotcha....

If you are buying a new crank from honda it comes with the con rod and bearings already installed. So you would have to have a machine shop press the crank apart to install the aftermarket rod. I know there are plenty of shops out there that do this all the time but is it going to be indexed correctly? Is it as strong as it was before? :thumbsup: I don't know, but when building my 628 from the ground up, I needed a new rod cause the small end had some wear. It looked like I got some debre in the pin area which caused some gauling.

I thought about going with an aftermarket rod and having someone like Al Baker's install it. When comparing the price of the rod and labor vs. a new crank assembly from Service Honda, there's only about a $20 difference and you only have to pay for shipping one way.

As for the Falicon vs. Carillo, I think it's more important to find someone who has the tools and experience to index the crank. They are both respected manufacturers in the engine industry.

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  • Outrider

Posted February 09, 2006 - 02:01 PM

#9

I too just had to make that decision. "New Crank or Rod?" After thinking about the machine shop labour "hoping they understand indexing because I don't", part cost, availability here in Canada and time I went with a new crank. The small end on my rod was also scored like some sand got in there. I think it's caused from poor lubrication or maybe the oil jet getting clogged or maybe low oil pressure I'm not sure. Anyway, I just installed the crank this week, now I'm just waiting for the piston and rings. I also had to replace both exhaust vavle and grind the seats.

Posted Image

  • rmhrc630

Posted February 09, 2006 - 02:26 PM

#10

Can you guys explain indexing to me?

I planned to just buy an old crankshaft off of EBAY, split it and use the halves with my new conrod. Is that a dumb way to go?

do crankshafts wear out?

I just priced a new 650L crankshaft at Honda Australia and they want $1200 Australian dollars which is about $900 US!!!!

Service HOnda have 650L cranshafts for only US$420

  • Boy Honda

Posted February 09, 2006 - 08:18 PM

#11

The XR crank is basically three pieces. You have the left side shaft and fly wheel, the Connecting rod Journal and the right side fly wheel and shaft. Indexing the crank basically is making sure that the left and right sides are on the same horizontal plane when they are pressed to the con rod journal. So that you end up with the two ends of the crank perfectly aligned. I hope that makes sense.

A good machine shop should be able to do it. I didn't realize you're in Oz. It may be more cost effective to rebuild. Check with the two stroke guys on this site and in OZ for some one that rebuilds cranks. Most two stroke cranks are the same way and if you can find someone that has a good rep for rebuilding cranks that may be your solution.

Good Luck.

  • rmhrc630

Posted February 09, 2006 - 10:59 PM

#12

The XR crank is basically three pieces. You have the left side shaft and fly wheel, the Connecting rod Journal and the right side fly wheel and shaft. Indexing the crank basically is making sure that the left and right sides are on the same horizontal plane when they are pressed to the con rod journal. So that you end up with the two ends of the crank perfectly aligned. I hope that makes sense.

A good machine shop should be able to do it. I didn't realize you're in Oz. It may be more cost effective to rebuild. Check with the two stroke guys on this site and in OZ for some one that rebuilds cranks. Most two stroke cranks are the same way and if you can find someone that has a good rep for rebuilding cranks that may be your solution.

Good Luck.


hey thanks Boy Honda

I got similiar bikes to you - a 2000 model XR628 and a 2004 offroad CRf450R.

Anyway back to the crankshaft - do you think that the best option would be to buy a bradn new oem crankshaft from service honda for about US$415 and then install that rather than spending money on aftermarket and used ebay products?

I personally think that may be the better way to go - I presume Honda provide the crankshaft all indexed and everything?

  • Boy Honda

Posted February 10, 2006 - 08:45 AM

#13

Since you aren't going hog wild with a huge over bore and Honda sold the 628 kit basically as a bolt on mod, I think the honda crank is the way to go. One thing I noticed is that you are looking at the XRL crank. Doesn't it have a longer stroke? Will that work with the 600 cylinder? If you don't know I'll consult my Honda Mech. friend.

The Honda crank will come with the con rod and rod bearing installed and ready to install. It will also have the counter balance shaft timing gear already installed. I would go ahead and get new main bearings while you are at it.

The left main bearing is a press fit on the crank. If you have the tools you should be able to do that.

  • rmhrc630

Posted February 10, 2006 - 06:03 PM

#14

Since you aren't going hog wild with a huge over bore and Honda sold the 628 kit basically as a bolt on mod, I think the honda crank is the way to go. One thing I noticed is that you are looking at the XRL crank. Doesn't it have a longer stroke? Will that work with the 600 cylinder? If you don't know I'll consult my Honda Mech. friend.

The Honda crank will come with the con rod and rod bearing installed and ready to install. It will also have the counter balance shaft timing gear already installed. I would go ahead and get new main bearings while you are at it.

The left main bearing is a press fit on the crank. If you have the tools you should be able to do that.


hey thanks

yes I am fitting the 650L crankshaft as the left hand side is longer so I can install the sprag clutch on it so I can get the estart working

the 628 is as you know 80mm stroke and the 650L is 82mm. my mechanic reckons he can add another base gasket and also perhaps shave some metal off the piston.

another query I have is whether I could leave the 628 piston as it is or will I have to find another 1mm for the increased stroke?

  • creeky

Posted February 10, 2006 - 07:05 PM

#15

I used an HRC crank from XRs Only a couple of years ago in an XR628 engine that I built for flat track. It is holding up extremely well after two seasons of racing.

  • XRMANU

Posted February 11, 2006 - 02:12 AM

#16

With a 100mm sleeve,go for the 102.4mm piston(660cc).No problem for the OEM 600 crank. :thumbsup:

102.4mm + 650L crank = 680cc....





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