XR650L rear wheel bearing removal


14 replies to this topic
  • kmul

Posted February 05, 2006 - 09:45 AM

#1

Any tips on removing the rear wheel bearings from 94 XR650L? Have searched on the site, can't find any threads on it. Clymers says to use a "brass drift", then hammer them out. I have already used retainer tool to remove retainer and all seals, just need to get the bearings out now. The distance collar doesn't move much to allow me to get a good angle on the bearing with a long screwdriver. Any other tools that might do the trick? Thanks

  • XRnToon

Posted February 05, 2006 - 03:12 PM

#2

I had to use a long screwdriver that had a 1/4 inch wide blade on it. I ground the tip to a chisel type of angle so that it would be fairly flat against the distance collar. Don't worry about ruining the old bearings, just carefully pound the snot out of them to get them out.
Be sure to pack your new bearings full of a high quality bearing grease and add a touch of grease to the seals to help them slide into place.
Jeff

  • drtlvr

Posted February 05, 2006 - 03:48 PM

#3

heat the hub up this will expand the aluminum making the bearing come out alot better,then before you install the new bearing,place them in your freezer,cold shrinks steel ,apply a little heat to the hub,and simply drop your bearing in.

good luck

  • kmul

Posted February 06, 2006 - 04:18 PM

#4

Thanks for the tips, will give it a try and post the results.

  • dukeryder

Posted April 04, 2006 - 10:19 PM

#5

Thanks for the tips, will give it a try and post the results.


so...? how'd it turn out?

I'm trying to get my old ones, man it's a bitch. Nothing to "bite" on with the punch.

  • xrsonlyfan

Posted January 24, 2007 - 06:30 PM

#6

I have yet to mine but it looks like there is a retaining nut that has a very fine thread. Is it right or left handed? Also heating the inner race sounds like a good idea to swell it out to get a better edge to punch against.

Anybody have the bearing numbers, or sizes. They have to be cheaper than going thru honda ... NAPA should be able to get them for us.

Team Honda

  • frankstr

Posted January 25, 2007 - 06:55 AM

#7

Welcome to Thumpertalk, kmul, :ride: :ride:

Visit the ThumperTalk Store for the lowest prices on motorcycle / ATV parts and accessories - Guaranteed
  • oldchvytrx

Posted January 25, 2007 - 09:01 AM

#8

I have yet to mine but it looks like there is a retaining nut that has a very fine thread. Is it right or left handed? Also heating the inner race sounds like a good idea to swell it out to get a better edge to punch against.

Anybody have the bearing numbers, or sizes. They have to be cheaper than going thru honda ... NAPA should be able to get them for us.

Team Honda


<<<<<<<>>>>>>>
Wow? Never had this much trouble getting wheel bearing out of the hubs. I use a cape chisel that I reground to change the angle to a steeper one and drive them out moving around the bearing to keep them going out straight. I do this once a year to repack them and have a set on my old CR 125 that lasted over 8 seasons of racing.
You can get any suspension or wheel bearing from many catalog wholesalers via phone or internet for nearly half of OEM. All Balls is one manufacturer that has applications for most modern off road bikes. They make a good product at a very reasonable price (even retail).
Another source is to save a bearing and take it to a local bearing/seal and tool supplier and have it measured, like Bearing Sevice Co or any local bearing/seal supplier.
Be careful using heat, especially torches on aluminum hubs. It is very easy to use too much heat and distort or temper aluminum making it brittle.
:ride: :ride: :ride:

  • dukeryder

Posted January 25, 2007 - 05:27 PM

#9

Yeah these things are a a Motha:censored: to get out.

I ended using a big screwdriver; I messed up the Screwdriver but it a China made one so I didn't really care. You gotta beat that spacer over a little and then pound out the bearing, I marred up the inside of the spacer pretty good and smoothed it out with a dremel tool and a barrel sander bit.

  • platterdr

Posted January 25, 2007 - 06:02 PM

#10

At how many miles are you changing bearings I have around 3600 on mine,am I past due or in good shape the wheel is solid the bearings don't seem bad. Also I have access to a hydraulic press is it ok to press these out

  • dukeryder

Posted January 27, 2007 - 08:38 PM

#11

At how many miles are you changing bearings I have around 3600 on mine,am I past due or in good shape the wheel is solid the bearings don't seem bad. Also I have access to a hydraulic press is it ok to press these out


No need to press 'em out, 3600 miles is nothin' if it's mostly street, if it's 3600miles all in the dirt/mud/sand you might be at the end of the bearings life.

You'll need a special tool to do the rear bearings since there's a retainer screwed into the hub Sudco sells the tool. Just use a hammer and a punch to get 'em, I can' see a Hydraulic press as any help probably more of a Pain in the ass. The spacer between the bearings is what makes removal difficult.

  • jetfuel

Posted January 28, 2007 - 06:59 AM

#12

I use a 3/8 drive extension (6 inch ) which I've ground slightly to make it flat with a sharp edge on the end that goes on to the ratchet....It gives you a larger surface area than any chisel,punch or screw driver...its easy to make and with a little heat to soften the locktite if you used it last time they come right out....

  • HawkGT

Posted January 28, 2007 - 11:25 AM

#13

Definitely heat the heck out of the hub for bearing RR.

I just did wheel bearings on my XR650R. I've always applied heat and just punched bearings out with a long drift from the other side. This time I just couldn't get enough of a bite on the rear bearings--the lip created by scooting the spacer over was just to small. The fronts puched out easy.

I went out and bought this tool from Harbor Freight for $16.

Posted Image

It worked but it's not especially easy to use. It's a cheaply made tool (duh) and did bend a little after removing two bearings. I figure I may get a couple more bearing pulls out of it before it's useless. At $16 it's a viable route and does come with a lifetime warranty from HF. Keep your recipt so you can take it back once it breaks.

Pitposse makes this stripped down version ($20) of their full puller set that might be a better way to go. Pitposse also sells a version of the above tool. For $40 I'm assuming it's not a cheap a China-made disposable like the HF tool.

http://us.st11.yimg....e_1932_70880137

  • Baxter650

Posted January 28, 2007 - 11:35 AM

#14

I use a hot air paint stripper to heat up the hub, use care, it can bubble the finish.

  • dukeryder

Posted January 28, 2007 - 05:22 PM

#15

I use a 3/8 drive extension (6 inch ) which I've ground slightly to make it flat with a sharp edge on the end that goes on to the ratchet....It gives you a larger surface area than any chisel,punch or screw driver...its easy to make and with a little heat to soften the locktite if you used it last time they come right out....


Post up a Photo when ya get a chance :ride:





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