how much oil


13 replies to this topic
  • duncanmx5

Posted January 26, 2006 - 04:14 PM

#1

my husband just bought a yz450f 2004 and we didnt get a manual for it.. can anyone tell me how much oil to put in it???

  • dough boy

Posted January 26, 2006 - 04:16 PM

#2

good job lol

  • munchieu

Posted January 26, 2006 - 05:08 PM

#3

here you go

periodic oil change:
1.0 L (0.88 lmp qt, 1.0 us quart)

with oil filter replacement:
1.1 L (0.97 lmp qt, 1.16 us qt)

total amount:
1.2 L (1.06 lmp qt, 1.27 us qt)

this is straight out of the 04 repair manual

  • theclone

Posted January 26, 2006 - 05:41 PM

#4

You should get a manual. Changing the oil on these things is not as straight forward as you might think

  • bruntz505

Posted January 26, 2006 - 06:35 PM

#5

here you go

periodic oil change:
1.0 L (0.88 lmp qt, 1.0 us quart)

with oil filter replacement:
1.1 L (0.97 lmp qt, 1.16 us qt)

total amount:
1.2 L (1.06 lmp qt, 1.27 us qt)

this is straight out of the 04 repair manual

:thumbsup: :bonk: Wow.Are you for real?When I bought my '04 I didn't get a manual either and I called a local dealer and they told me like 1.6qt w/filter and 1.4qt w/o filter.I don't know anyone else who has a YZ450f around here,so I believed what they told me.That would explain why the oil tank in the frame is always full. :thumbsup: :eek:

  • grayracer513

Posted January 26, 2006 - 11:30 PM

#6

Go to the ThumperFAQ Oil Change Page and follow the procedure for the '03 model. It is basically identical to that required on your 450. The crankcase drain bolt is located on the bottom of the transmission, near the shifter, and runs down and rearward.

Removing the frame oil screen and oil lines is only occasionally warranted.

  • munchieu

Posted January 27, 2006 - 04:05 AM

#7

the oil change on the 450f is a pain. 4 drain plugs. oil filter, and remove 1 oil line to acess the frame tank screen.

bruntz505,
was it at the top of the cross hatches or beyond it. it should be in the middle. and my bike came with a full repair manual. i bought my bike new. if you bought it used even from a dealer you most likley wont get a manual.

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  • grayracer513

Posted January 27, 2006 - 08:16 AM

#8

the oil change on the 450f is a pain. 4 drain plugs. oil filter, and remove 1 oil line to acess the frame tank screen.

It really is not necessary to do all of that. The tank screen only needs inspection once when the bike is new, and once after any major engine damage, and again after any major repair work.

The "drain" bolt on the oil filter cover should be ignored and treated like any normal bolt. For one thing, it doesn't drain the filter well worth a damn anyway, and the procedure runs metal chips from the filter well through the threaded hole where the bolt goes, causing the threads to become worn and damaged.

Likewise, I also bypass the small drain on the left side below the neutral switch. The one time I bothered with it, so little came out after the main crankcase drain had been removed that it just didn't seem worthwhile.

So that leaves the frame drain and the crankcase drain under the engine, both of which will drop oil right into a pan without spilling a drop, and are easy to get to. The oil filter is a little messier, but not bad if you just give up on wasting your time trying to figure out some way to keep oil off the side of the engine. Pull the cover and be done with it. (do have the bike either on a stand or leaning to the right on a triangle) Wipe off what you can and shoot it with carb cleaner once the cover is back on. Much less aggravating.

The bike holds 1.2 qts. total to fill to the top of the hash on the dipstick. (More, actually, if you want, because the oil tank volume is still the same as the older models that carried 1.7) When you change your oil, even with a filter, you're leaving 100cc in it no matter how hard you wring it out, short of pulling the covers off and rolling the bike around on its sides for a while. There isn't much point in putting out the effort required for the last 50cc or so you leave in it by ignoring the small drain and the oil lines, IMO, at least there shouldn't be if you change your oil frequently. The process takes me 15-20 minutes, or a half hour for both bikes, and that includes cleaning the Scotts oil filters. Not a big deal at all, and certainly not a pain.

  • bruntz505

Posted January 27, 2006 - 08:30 AM

#9

the oil change on the 450f is a pain. 4 drain plugs. oil filter, and remove 1 oil line to acess the frame tank screen.

bruntz505,
was it at the top of the cross hatches or beyond it. it should be in the middle. and my bike came with a full repair manual. i bought my bike new. if you bought it used even from a dealer you most likley wont get a manual.

It was above and beyond the cross hatch.But like I said I was told to put 1.6qt in when I change the filter too.I was kind of worried,because on my
'01 250f,the oil settles into the engine in a matter of 5 minutes.The oil would remain full in the frame tank on my 450 for several minutes.I was concerned that it was not circulating properly in the crankcase.To further examine this I spent an hour or two removing all oil lines(except the one from the cylinder to the crankcase) and the oil screen and cleaned all of them.I bought it from a private owner and he didn't have the manual,and Yamaha wants $50 for one.I really didn't want to buy a new engine,so I haven't really ridden due to this problem.So thanks a million guys. :thumbsup: :bonk: :thumbsup: :eek:

  • grayracer513

Posted January 27, 2006 - 08:39 AM

#10

I was kind of worried,because on my
'01 250f,the oil settles into the engine in a matter of 5 minutes.The oil would remain full in the frame tank on my 450 for several minutes.I was concerned that it was not circulating properly in the crankcase.

Your 450 is behaving normally, and the 250 sounds like it has a damaged or stuck low pressure check valve, or a very worn oil pump. Oil should remain in the tank at least for several hours after shutoff.

What holds it there is a check valve located in the right engine cover, downstream from the oil pump, between the pump and the filter well. It closes when the oil pressure delivered by the pump drops below 4-5 psi or so to keep oil from running back into the crankcases. However, because of the light multi-grades we use, the hot oil is able to leak around the oil pump shaft, which is not sealed, and drain back that way. But as I say, that should take quite a while longer than 5 minutes.

  • bruntz505

Posted January 27, 2006 - 09:10 AM

#11

I can't say that it completely drains down,but the 5 minute rule for checking oil is very critical to get an accurate reading.And I just figured that the same rule applies for the 450.It never completely drains down,just partially.

  • grayracer513

Posted January 27, 2006 - 10:28 AM

#12

I can't say that it completely drains down,but the 5 minute rule for checking oil is very critical to get an accurate reading. And I just figured that the same rule applies for the 450.

OK, if you're saying that you need to take the reading on the dipstick within 5 minutes, that is correct. Oil will start to drain back immediately, so to get a truly accurate reading, you do need to check it shortly after shutting down. If you leave it for a week or two, it may completely drain back, but it should take at least a couple of days at minimum.

  • snowboardstylee

Posted January 27, 2006 - 11:20 AM

#13

Im with gray racer on this one. simple and easy my procedure is this .
warm up bike to operating temp. to get the oil nice and liquified.

remove your dipstick which is on the left side frame near the steering head above the radiator

start with frame drane bolt, (billywho's man funnel works great to keep oil from squirting on the front tire when you pull the bolt) let the oil drain. out and replace bolt.

then drain your crankcase from the bottom bolt there is access thru the skid plate and behing the shock linkage. not a tough one to get to. drain and replace bolt. .

a lot of things have been said about safety wireing this bolt cause it has been known to come loose . also about replacing it with a bolt that has a magnet on it. i think thats a waste to spend 20 bucks for a bolt with a 5 cent magnet crazy glued on it. just go get a magnet at a store and glue it yourself if you really feel the need for a magnetized drain plug. id be suprized to ever see anything clinging to it.

weather you replace the bolt or not be sure to not over tighten it.
if you have a drill jig. it would be a good idea to safety wire this bolt.

i only cnange my oil filter every other oil change. they dont cost much.

not a big deal to replace. i put my bike on the triangel stand lean it to the left, pull the three allen cap bolts and the cover comes right off. if your O ring is damaged replace it. i remove the oil filter shoot some carb cleaner in there to get it nice and clean and BE SURE TO SOAK your NEW oil filter in clean oil before you install it.
It only goes in one way.
replace cover and tighten the three bolts back on. clean the side cover with some carb cleaner. / contact cleaner. Maxima makes a really good one that smells like citrus now. i like it.

Now for the fun part. (how much oil to put in)
your bike has a dipstick on the left hand side of the frame next to the head bearings and above the left radiator. make sure its back in from when you removed it to drain.

Dirt usually is collected around my filler plug so i shoot some carb cleaner on it to remove debris before removing the plug so none of it falls in the motor when the cap is off. remove the cap and fill with 1.0 L with out oil filter and 1.2 with oil filter change (if you get the billy who oil change bottle you dont even ever have to worry about that) , just fill your bottle to the line indicated for your bike. and then pour that in your bike . every time ive used it its right on the money. I dont even check anymore

Replace your oil filler cap.
now here is the tricky part.. since you just drained the oil. you dont want to start the bike right up and have the choak on and rev the crap out of it with no oil in the lines. residule oil on the cylinder walls should be ok , but for safe measure. here is what i do.

with your finger on the kill button stand your bike upright and kick it over about 20 times ...

then remove the finger from the button and start her up. let her IDLE for about a min and then shut off. while you are on the bike and its level reach down and check your dip stick. it should be at the indicated level. if not add oil till it is.
if you use the billy who bottle you will never be wrong.

now load up and go ride.

  • grayracer513

Posted January 27, 2006 - 04:19 PM

#14

billywho's man funnel works great to keep oil from squirting on the front tire when you pull the bolt

I just turn the wheel out of the way and hold the drip pan up close to the drain.

a lot of things have been said about safety wireing this bolt cause it has been known to come loose .

If they're properly tightened, they don't come out. :thumbsup: Doesn't hurt to safety wire anything, though.

i think thats a waste to spend 20 bucks for a bolt with a 5 cent magnet crazy glued on it. just go get a magnet at a store and glue it yourself if you really feel the need for a magnetized drain plug. id be suprized to ever see anything clinging to it.

Then I'm afraid you'd be surprised. I have two of these, and they both always have a bit of fine iron on them. There's a transmission in there, you know. And if the stuff is on the magnet, there's an even chance that it never went through my oil pump, or my oil tank. If you want make your own, be advised the magnet is not glued on, it's glued in. And pressed in. Into a hole drilled down the center of the bolt, so that there is something more to hold it in place than a spot of glue.

i only cnange my oil filter every other oil change. they dont cost much.

I clean my Scotts every oil change. It doesn't cost anything (my uses of the filter long ago exceeded $70 worth of replacement filters).

with your finger on the kill button stand your bike upright and kick it over about 20 times ...

Erring on the side of caution has its merits, but this is a little overkill. If you ran the bike before changing the oil, there will be more lube on the internals than there is when you start your bike after leaving it sit for 2 weeks. I am NOT saying not to worry about it at all, but the simple precaution of not revving the thing hard for the 10-15 seconds it will take to re-establish oil flow in the feed side will keep your bike healthy without going to an excess of effort.





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