New WR426 impressions/questions



9 replies to this topic
  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted January 01, 2001 - 04:40 PM

#1

After completing the initial break-in a week ago, I finally got to take the bike for a ride on Sunday. About 40 miles of slick, snotty mud, roots, and rocks. The stock gearing is a bit tall for the tight stuff - often first was too low, and second just a tad high. What do most of you that ride tight woods do here - 50/14 are stock sprockets - I'm thinking either 50/13 or 52/14..?

The bike doesn't like to turn, especially on the slimy stuff. I feel fortunate in getting it back with no damage, after several unintentional jaunts off the trail. I believe I will raise the forks up a bit (as I had to do with my old YZ250WR). How far is too far, and does anyone have a recommendation as to how much works well?

The bike has an intermittent stumble when riding at anything under about 1/3 throttle, and idles very hot (red hot pipe). It also stumbles a bit when you get on the gas after riding through slow areas, but cleans up and pulls strong after a moment. My dealer removed the throttle stop (unbeknownst to me until I got it home)- could this have anything to do with the stumble at full throttle? At times it will run better if I back the throttle of just a tad from full on.. Other times it seems to run fine at full throttle. I went to the dealer to get the stop, and he gave me one from a 2000 WR, saying they had thrown out the one that came with my bike. He also said that if it is not the right one, he will get me one. I believe they are the same? I have not yet cut it down or installed it.

Stock jetting is:
MJ: #165
JN: OBDRR (clip in 4th position)
PJ: #42
Pilot screw: 1-5/8 turns out

They also include #160, #170 MJ's, and a #38 pilot jet. I turned the pilot screw out to 2 turns, but didn't realise until I got up in the hills that I had not packed a short enough screwdriver to adjust it, so didn't try turning it out further. Any suggestions on starting points to clean up the jetting? Everything is stock except muffler plug out, airbox lid off, throttle stop removed, and pilot screw out 2 turns.

Other than these concerns, I think I am going to really like this bike. It may take a few more rides to really get used to the 4-stroke characteristics, but I think that when I get it geared down, and enable a bit sharper turning, it's going to be a blast. Starting has been no problem at all. Oil changing is a bit of a chore, but I'll get used to it (the frame strainer isn't the most convenient setup I have seen..). The suspension is pretty good stock after the initial stiffness, and I think will dial in perfectly for what I am doing. The tank is rather wide, but I need the capacity. Might look into a slimmer/lower profile tank if I find I cannot get comfortable sitting up on this one. The pegs seem a bit high (or the bar a bit low) - I assume there are remedies for this by way of aftermarket clamps?

Anyway - didn't mean to be so long winded. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated! -Chris

  • James_Dean

Posted January 01, 2001 - 08:18 PM

#2

Chris,

Try sliding the forks up 5mm and be sure to set the rear sag. Less sag keeps the back up and helps steering along with 2 clicks firmer on compression.

The OBDRR in the 4th clip might be the source of the intermittent stumble (rich) at 1/4 throttle, however the pilot is still set lean. The lean idle would be the hot condition. My '00 WR ran better at 3 turns out with the #42 pilot. The result was I went to a #45 at 2 1/4 turns or a #48 at 1 turn (no more than that).

I like the stock gearing.

James

  • Taffy

Posted January 02, 2001 - 01:56 AM

#3

chris

the tail is wagging the dog right now. after a few rides you'll be pushing the bike & a lot of the handling will improve, use the back brake a lot more to control the bike going into turns.

i raised my forks 13mm having bought a top clamp that allowed me to mount my pro tapers right forward-so much so that the forks are more visible from behind than infront.

leave the gearing, be patient. get the back end jacked right up so that your sag etc is set to the minimum (90mm?).

i'm suprised you don't like the standard tank, it's supposed to hold only about 2 gallons isn't it? yet you say it's bulky.

Taffy

  • Guest_Guest_*

Posted January 02, 2001 - 03:20 AM

#4

James: Thanks. I will try your recommendations and see if things improve. I may well be jumping the gun on the gearing, as conditions were worse than usual, and I am not used to the bike. Once I get the pace picked up (as Taffy mentioned), I may find it to be just right. I do need to set the sag as well - it is certainly too low right now.

Taffy: I appreciate the input - soon as I get another ride on this beast, I'll surely have some more queries!
The stock tank (USA) is a 3.17 U.S. gallon, or 12 liter tank - it's much wider than the 2.1 gallon tank I am used to, and is rather tall as well, making it harder to move the weight up front. I'll have to put a few more rides on the bike before I know whether I can get used to it. It also carries the weight of the fuel rather high. -Chris

  • mcarp

Posted January 02, 2001 - 06:05 AM

#5

I moved my forks up 10mm. I guess you could say in between James and Taffy. I also shortened the wheelbase by using either 1.) Shorter chain w/ 13/50 gearing or 2.) Stock lenght chain w/ 14/52. I think I like the 14/52 better, it's not quite as low.

Part of the turning problem could be the stock 739 tires. They are not designed for mud! I tossed mine after the first mud ride for 756's/S12's. The suspension and fork ideas are great ideas too.

Also you'll find quite a few WR riders bought a YZ tank to help get more forward-it DOES make a BIG difference!

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  • Hick

Posted January 02, 2001 - 08:39 AM

#6

Chris,

I have an ’00 YZF but I rode a WR once and it was hard to turn. I attributed this to the tank. When placed side by side it was obvious that the WR tank puts the rider a good bit further back on the bike, even when compared to the IMS 3.2 tank that is on my YZ.

But I only race dez, so I don’t know how to turn (or stop) anyway :)

  • Darren_Santilli

Posted January 02, 2001 - 11:16 AM

#7

Taffy......

as far as I can remember, the US bikes have a larger tank and seat combo, where as the UK bikes have the YZ setup. Maybe this is why scouringpad feels the tank is bulky.

  • Ted_in_Massachusetts

Posted January 02, 2001 - 04:02 PM

#8

Chris,
I got my new '00 in November. After a couple hundred 'break in' miles, the only mod I've made is a 13 tooth front. It had to be done because I love tight woods and with the stock gearing, first gear idle is about 45 MPH (thats what it seemed like anyway..) and I kept stalling.

I went with the smaller front instead of a larger rear just to save money but feel like it was too big of a change. When you get to the gearing, I suggest you start with the rear...

  • Taffy

Posted January 02, 2001 - 06:32 PM

#9

yep we got a 9 litre tank over here in britian. it's all about saving money again isn't it. we only do tight woods so we get the small tank, you yanks have got to run down the old stocks first.

why do you think WR's ran 400 for one extra year!

it's 3.30am over here & i can't sleep, i've just watched john snow (our walter K) go around Yamaha's piano division, they're in big trouble & the country is going tits up.

they badly need a production run that sees minumum investment for maximum return, everything is coming down to pennies.

if it wasn't for KTM i think the japs would like to slow it all right down. just how the brits went back in the 50's.

anyway i'm well off the subject...

Taffy

  • mcarp

Posted January 02, 2001 - 07:10 PM

#10

"I went with the smaller front instead of a larger rear just to save money but feel like it was too big of a change. When you get to the gearing, I suggest you start with the rear..."

I agree with this. 13/50 is really low. The top speed is still about 72mph, though. I recently changed to 14/52 and like this a lot better-I ride woods, both fast and tight, some MX, and any hill I can sink my knobs into :) It's right in between stock and 13/50




 
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