Complete engine shutdown @ 75mph after a 130 mile ride, any ideas?
Posted January 21, 2006 - 10:52 PM
stopped as if I pressed the kill switch. It still has compression, so
the piston was not blown. And it has spark.
BACKGROUND: We were 130 miles in, approaching our campsite (30 miles
shy) when this happened. Up until then the bike was running fab! Its
my first BRP and its a clean '02. I had the pig un-corked before
going out on my first ride.
OVERVIEW 1) plug sparks
2) put gas in the cylinder, still no start
3) looked for elec shorts due to wear/vibration
DETAILS: I pulled the plug, it looked a little on the dirty side,
but it sparks! Good spark at that. The tail light lights up when I
kick it, I assume this means my coil and electrical is good. I checked
the wiring from the coil back to the regulator (?)- looking for
vibration wear into the wire insulation, found nodda thing. I put gas
on the sparkplug and in the hole then installed the plug and kicked it
over, not the slightest of an ignition occurred, just like the kill
switch was held. So I disassembled the kill switch, no change.
PLAN OF ACTION: 1) get a new plug and hope and pray.
2) hope someone has other ideas what to do??
Posted January 22, 2006 - 03:13 AM
I had the pig un-corked before
going out on my first ride.
I betcha it was running way lean on the topend after the uncorking, got hot, and jumped time.
I have had theat happen to me on an older airhead after uncorking.
Posted January 22, 2006 - 09:25 AM
Posted January 22, 2006 - 10:34 AM
Gas flow is unobstructed?
Intake manifold leak?
Jet is clogged?
Plug wire not arcing anywhere?
Carb throat clear?
Water in fuel?
Posted January 22, 2006 - 10:41 AM
What is it?
Header/Muffler, air filter?
Posted January 22, 2006 - 11:13 AM
Details of the bike? I have answered below.
What is it? ANS: 2002, CLEAN, bought it from someone who needed to take it in to the shop to get it to run, probably sat too long and gummed up. It appeared to be his first bike and was riden only a handful of times very lightly by all accounts of the beautiful condition it was in, the only drawback was it was 100% stock.
Jetting? ANS: the un-cork setup - 68 std pilot and a 175 main with the un-cork tube that goes between the needle and the main (dont know what that is called but it was tricky figuring out how to get it out.
Header/Muffler, ANS: normal air filter? stock muff with un-corked core.
Un-corked? ANS: yes, still has the air pump, just got the block off kit but did not install it yet.
Will keep you all posted! thanks. CCRIDER1980
Posted January 22, 2006 - 06:29 PM
I know the cases are different on these bikes, but it might be something to check.
Posted January 23, 2006 - 09:31 PM
I have a question regarding the BRP however. Are these clearance fit engines? IE if you slip a timing gear or break a timing chain are you in danger of bending a valve or doing catasrophic damage to the piston/valve/con rod?
Just curious here in Okinawa living vicariously through you all.
Posted January 25, 2006 - 09:19 PM
ROOT CAUSE FOUND!: The problem was lack of gas going into the the cylinder, it was carburator slide valve, more specifically it was the Link Arm, the 2 screws vibrated completly off the Throttle valve. Thus the needle and Throttle Valve were not moving at all when twisting the throttle handle. But the throttle still sprung back giving the false impression that it was working normal.
So it was from when I un-corked the pig the week prior to my ride, I did not tighten the screws well enough after switching the needle - due to the angle of the screwdriver to get to the screws. So when I found this out, I totally disassembled the LINK ARM to get access with a straight approach and tighten those buggers.
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