87 RM250 rebuild help...
Posted 12 January 2006 - 08:01 AM
would greatly appreciate any feedback or opinions on the questions in this post:
Posted 13 January 2006 - 12:11 PM
Posted 13 January 2006 - 12:21 PM
Posted 13 January 2006 - 12:37 PM
i guess my biggest problem is i just want a newer bike, and will probably sell this one pretty soon. if i rebuild the whole bike to totally pristine condition, it might be worth $800. if it's clean, starts easy, and goes thru all the gears it's worth probably $500. (full disclosure on condition, of course) sleeving & boring the cylinder is going to cost at least $250 more.
Posted 13 January 2006 - 12:47 PM
Posted 19 February 2006 - 01:53 AM
Posted 20 February 2006 - 07:00 AM
i've also found a broken exhaust valve which i have to repair or replace. regardless, i've become determined to ride this thing again. i did buy replated cylinder for $50 and a ball hone, and it looks like that's going to work.
Posted 25 February 2006 - 09:01 AM
If my mind serves me correct, '87 or '89 was the year that Suzuki began plating their cylinders with Nikasil. So if you did get it plated, it does have an advantage as far as longativity goes compared to an iron-sleeved RM of the era. Be sure to mention that if you try and sell it and you may get a little more. If you haven't already, be sure to clean up any carbon deposits and check the ring gaps once you get the cylinder jug back on.
The only gaskets I wouldn't recommend re-using are the cheap paper gaskets the factory offers on older bikes (newer, too? I wouldn't know.. too poor to own a new bike. ) Anything else is fine, just be sure to inspect for any damage to them and don't re-use them more than one or two re-builds. Some prefer to replace them every time, but it's not a must if they are in good condition.
As for break-in, follow this: http://www.off-road....atv/breakin.htm
When at idle during break-in, periodically give the throttle a little twist while staying in the lower RPM range to better lubricate the rings and cylinder wall, since low mixture velocity at idle allows most of the oil to remain in the crankcase. This is crucial during break-in because it allows your rings to seat more properly and offer much more life out of your rings and cylinder plating.
Goodluck with your re-build, and I hope you found this helpful. Be sure to let us know how the ol' beast runs!