Scotts Damper Follow up


23 replies to this topic
  • bigdrtrdr

Posted December 31, 2005 - 08:16 AM

#1

Tuesday I ordered my Scotts Damper and Sub Mount kit, Got it yesterday at about 2:00 pm. Had it all done by 5:00. This included a trip to my dads house to recover my Aluminum cutoff wheel and grinder.

I mounted a Sub Mount to my stock top clamp using the AJs bar risers. These bar risers alow for plenty of room for clearance and are the cats meow for us larger than average riders, Im 6'9".

The only real hassel involved in the install is the amount of material that needs to be removed from the top Triple clamp.
On 01s and 02s the entire boxed casting at the rear must be completely removed and notched for the pin tower, otherwise this will act as your new steering stops. Also clearance must be added at the front casting for the stock ODO mount. I dont use it so I just removed the entire casting.

Mounting the Submount itself uses the stock steering head crown nut and a 1/8" roll pin to anchor it and keep it from rotating. You have to drill this yourself.

Photos soon: Posted by "byggd" because Im lame

Later
Eric

  • byggd

Posted December 31, 2005 - 10:10 AM

#2

Try using photobucket.com. If not email them to me and I will be glad to assist. :applause:

  • RedRider250X

Posted December 31, 2005 - 10:14 AM

#3

Doesn't sound like it was to hard :applause: Just waiting for pics.

  • byggd

Posted January 01, 2006 - 10:16 AM

#4

Tuesday I ordered my Scotts Damper and Sub Mount kit, Got it yesterday at about 2:00 pm. Had it all done by 5:00. This included a trip to my dads house to recover my Aluminum cutoff wheel and grinder.

I mounted a Sub Mount to my stock top clamp using the AJs bar risers. These bar risers alow for plenty of room for clearance and are the cats meow for us larger than average riders, Im 6'9".

The only real hassel involved in the install is the amount of material that needs to be removed from the top Triple clamp.
On 01s and 02s the entire boxed casting at the rear must be completely removed and notched for the pin tower, otherwise this will act as your new steering stops. Also clearance must be added at the front casting for the stock ODO mount. I dont use it so I just removed the entire casting.

Mounting the Submount itself uses the stock steering head crown nut and a 1/8" roll pin to anchor it and keep it from rotating. You have to drill this yourself.

Photos soon: Posted by "byggd" because Im lame

Later
Eric

Here are the pictures. Posted for bigdrtrdr :applause:
http://photobucket.c...ttspictures.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp1.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp3.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp4.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp5.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp6.jpg

  • marco polo

Posted January 01, 2006 - 10:54 AM

#5

Eric,

Nice pics!

How do you remove the lower clamp to install the Scotts guide?? Is it just the 4 bolts around the forks??

Do you need a special wrench to remove the head tube or does it slide down without removing it??

TNX
MP

  • TeamScream

Posted January 01, 2006 - 12:34 PM

#6

Eric,

Nice pics!

How do you remove the lower clamp to install the Scotts guide?? Is it just the 4 bolts around the forks??

Do you need a special wrench to remove the head tube or does it slide down without removing it??

TNX
MP


You remove the top triple clamp, and then the bottom clamp with the stem will drop out as a unit after you remove the nut and washers that hold it in place.
Simple.

  • bigdrtrdr

Posted January 01, 2006 - 05:45 PM

#7

Actually You dont have to drop the lower clamp at all. This was all done with removing and modifying the top tripple clamp only.
The Scotts frame bracket sets on top of the steering head. Under the top clamp.

BTW, I rode it today and I've got to say that this product saved my ass for sure once, Probly more. The thing really smoothes out the deflection off of rocks and roots and reduces arm pump.

Anyone that lives up my way knows Walker Valley is Rock And Root Hell
Thats where it got the test.

Great product, Great Company and service.

Later,
Eric

Thanks to byggd for posting the photos :applause:

  • Matty05

Posted January 01, 2006 - 06:16 PM

#8

Actually You dont have to drop the lower clamp at all. This was all done with removing and modifying the top tripple clamp only.

good time to grease those bearings!

Nice job! :applause: I just wish they didn't cost so much here in Aus......

  • byggd

Posted January 03, 2006 - 04:50 PM

#9

Eric,
Did you go from the top mount to the sub mount? I'm just wondering if you noticed any improvement by having the shorter stem.

  • Punisher 660

Posted February 14, 2006 - 09:31 PM

#10

What is the sub mount for the scotts? I though that was the taller clamps? Is it something else?

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  • Punisher 660

Posted February 14, 2006 - 09:37 PM

#11

also - any cabling issues running the AJ adapters?

  • bigdrtrdr

Posted August 02, 2006 - 09:05 AM

#12

Heres that old thread. Pics of my install are posted by Bygdd.

This setup works awsome for tall riders.

  • LimyWPom

Posted August 02, 2006 - 07:41 PM

#13

good time to grease those bearings!

Nice job! :thumbsup: I just wish they didn't cost so much here in Aus......

worth the money though Matty, taking into consideration that you can transfer it when you upgrade to a newer bike. I bought mine after a spill that left me with concussion and a days pay lost. My mate was following me on CR450x he said the bars appeared to get wrenched left spitting me off head first on my back few grazes other than the concussion. I must have road the bike back to the truck on instinct. On the bright side you don't remember getting hurt with the concussion. :ride:

  • LimyWPom

Posted August 02, 2006 - 07:49 PM

#14

oh yes, I've got an 05 and I totally agree with the Scott's ability to greatly reduce arm pump, my mate with the 450x has ridden mine and wants to get a damper now. :thumbsup:

  • johnnyjeep

Posted August 03, 2006 - 01:03 AM

#15

I put one on my 06 WR and to tell the truth I didnt really notice too much difference, just imagined that it was helping, wondering what it would have been like without it. However, after riding with it for a while, I fired up my RM that doesnt have one and it felt like the bike was on the edge of out of control. Bottom line is I like it and installing it on an 06 was easier than the directions indicated. The only grinding needed was just a touch on the weld of the frame head.

John in Vegas

  • AUS_WR450

Posted August 03, 2006 - 03:35 AM

#16

good time to grease those bearings!

Nice job! :thumbsup: I just wish they didn't cost so much here in Aus......


Matty,

I have just asked for a quote from "Shock Treatment" so it will be interesting to see how much they want for one down under.

Nigel

  • AUS_WR450

Posted August 03, 2006 - 03:53 AM

#17

What is the sub mount for the scotts? I though that was the taller clamps? Is it something else?


With a SUB mount setup, the stabiliser unit sits under the bars, as opposed to on top of it. It gives it, and the rider, less chance of getting damaged. It also gives you more space for the fitting of GPSr's, trip computers etc.

Here is a link to the Scott's site. Scroll down and you will find info on the SUB mount.
Scotts SUB mount

  • Anthony CRF450

Posted August 03, 2006 - 02:47 PM

#18

how much would it cost in australia? i am from melbourne

  • AUS_WR450

Posted August 03, 2006 - 06:28 PM

#19

how much would it cost in australia? i am from melbourne



Anthony,

Get in contact with this mob. They are the Aussie agents. I am guessing it will be between $1100-$1200.

Shock Treatment

  • jmetteer

Posted December 14, 2006 - 05:51 PM

#20

Here are the pictures. Posted for bigdrtrdr :thumbsup:
http://photobucket.c...ttspictures.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp1.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp3.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp4.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp5.jpg
http://photobucket.c...current=sp6.jpg


I am interested in checking out this setup but the pictures want a password.

I wouldn't mind re-hosting them so others can check them out as well.

Later,




 
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