Extreme weather means extreme measures


28 replies to this topic
  • tmckeown

Posted January 04, 2006 - 09:26 PM

#21

Hi,

That HID is made by me. I bought ballast and bulb. Light in Hella Luminator Compact and I rubber mount it on that frame I made. Heated grips you should be able to buy on almost any local bikedealer.

Do you mean Enduro tyres? they cost about 240€ each (Trelleborgs with studs) and Iceroadracing tyres around 150€ each(Duro with studs)

Timo Mc

  • Asgeir

Posted January 05, 2006 - 10:54 AM

#22

Really effective light, right ?

How big is the light in inch or cm ?

  • tmckeown

Posted January 05, 2006 - 11:14 AM

#23

35 W Xenon is compared to 150W Halogen. Color of the light is complitely different, it is really white like snow (6000 kelvin) it shows real good contrast on ground so you can see where you have ups and downs. Size of that front lamp is 177mm so aroound 7". I could have gone bigger put I wanted to be able to protect it form all those fall downs.

Going to make another one tomorrow for my little brother.

On Päijänteen Ympäriajo (2.5 days and 700km) we have to drive in dark snowy conditions about 12hrs out of 32 hrs of driving which race takes. I have 2 halogen lamps on my helmet and then HID on my bike.

Timo Mc

  • Asgeir

Posted January 05, 2006 - 11:58 AM

#24

Have you checked out the HID helmet lights of TrailTech ?

www.trailtech.net

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  • tmckeown

Posted January 05, 2006 - 01:13 PM

#25

Hi,

Yes I have, looks nice and thinking about it. Right now using 35W IRC Xenon Halogen. This one has Xenon gas inside the bulb and should give same amount of light that 55W H4 halogen. Price difference is huge. I can get those 35W halogens for 7 dollars each and I will make cover for it myself. I still have few months to test. Trying to practise 3 days a week, 2 days on daylight and one in dark.

Timo Mc

  • SpeedBlitz

Posted January 05, 2006 - 04:03 PM

#26

Timo,

With the upgrades you have done, I assume you also upgraded your stator? What is your stator output? Did you rewind it yourself or bought a new stator with higher output? If you bought one, which stator did you buy? Any particular reasons you bought that one over another one?

Thanks.

  • tmckeown

Posted January 05, 2006 - 11:19 PM

#27

Hi,

Actually I haven't done any stator mods and still haven't found any reason to do any. HID only pulls 35W when it is lightened up. It takes 15A to fire it up and you would not be able to do that from a stator anyway. I tried this.

HID, rear light(LED) and helmet halogen are run by battery and grip warmers by stator.

This is actually easy to measure, you can load the battery as long as the voltage does not drop too much. In Yamaha there is 2 different systems AC-side which normally runs lights and DC-side which runs CDI and charge battery. So as long as there is enought DC to load the battery you're ok. How much is enought I would say 13V (this by revving that bike, when it is idling it is normal that voltage drops). When the power of that stator is getting on its limits it will show as dropped voltage.

So what I did is I made another cable group going from battery to the front including +, - and extra 3 cables (2 for turning signals and one for rear light)
Then I added one heavy duty car relay (up to 30A) some switches (HID, computer warmer and grip warmers) and fuse

I took + from the main switch by simply cutting the brown wire and soldering another wire to it. I use this to make the relay pull (125mA) when I need HID on and also power to my LYNX-computer (35mA). I also took + from back (close to airbox) from starter relay to use it for the brake light. Now the brake light works all the time when you have mains on. Back(Tail)light works only when you have HID on. This helps you not to forget anthing on. If you have your main swith on everything is usable and when it is off everyting shut down :applause:

Now I hooked up new cable with + from back to the relay so that it when I put the HID switch on relay pulls and gives DC to HID and gives DC back to rear light thru that one extra cable going back. Relay pull coil get DC from the main switch thru HID switch.

I did put quick connections on AC and also HID, so all I have to do in the race is take those screws and bolts off which hold the lamp fixtures (either light Yamaha original during daytime or selfmade HID during dark) on its place and pull off only one connections. :bonk:

This tried to make it short but :cry: hopefully you get something out of this. I can take some pictures I'm doing samekind of cableing to my brothers bike this weekend

Timo Mc

  • SpeedBlitz

Posted January 06, 2006 - 06:45 AM

#28

Thanks for the clarifications Timo! Once I finish getting setup for the ice, I'll have a closer look at your post when I'm installing the grip warmers and the outlet/switch for the heated soles for the boots.

What do you use to keep your feet warm?

Regarding the grip warmers, what type did you use? I figure you probably use the same type as the one used for your digital speedometer heater. If so, since the bars act as a heat sink (as suggested by mtrablue), do you wrap the bars with something prior to installing the heating elements onto the bars to insulate (or rather reduce the heat transfer to the bars)?

SB

  • tmckeown

Posted January 06, 2006 - 10:51 AM

#29

Hi,

Yes, I use the sametype of gripwarmer than with the computer warmer. I don't wrap anything around the bar before I install that warmer. Problem mostly is that it comes too hot without resistor and you have to turn it off few minutes after putting it on so you can keep holding on. So put that switch somewhere really handy othervise you have to stop to turn them off.

Timo Mc




 
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